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Muddbucket

Member Since 07 Jun 2011
Offline Last Active Aug 04 2011 08:29 PM

Topics I've Started

LG Wall Oven -> LWS3081ST Weird Malfunctions.

25 July 2011 - 01:44 PM

So, I sold a customer an LG kitchen package about 2 months ago. They love everything however the wall-oven has never worked correctly since day one.

It was installed correctly and everything on the outside looks good.

The problem here is that when using bake as per the instruction manual the oven will preheat and preheat and preheat but never actually switch into a baking mode.
The customer can set the oven for 375, start it and it will start the preheat cycle. During this time the temperature will go up as intended but it simply will not change from preheat to bake
even when the oven reads 375 on the control panel and roughly the same internally verified with a remote monitor.

Roast will work correctly, most other functions will work correctly but bake and convection bake never leave the preheat cycle

The service tech in question I've dealt with before. He's currently on my sh*tlist.

He went to a customers home to diagnose a leaking LG frontloader, opened the TOP of the machine, said theres nothing wrong and left.
I instructed the customer on how to check the PUMP ASSY and the Bellows, Customer found a tear in the bellows, replaced, and all is well

He went to a customers home to diagnose a non-drying LG dishwasher (LFD7920) and said theres nothing wrong with it. I loaned the customer a temperature gun, a remote thermometer, and instructed them
to ensure rinse agent was adjusted accordingly and that the water was reaching the necessary temperature for the condensation drying system to work. I instructed the customer to ensure that there was
minimal air circulation outside of the tub to make sure that the tub was not being affected by a low ambient temperature. Customer verified all was green so I gave him the soap/rinse agent dispenser off my floor model
and showed him how to swap it out. His machine is now functioning correctly.

Both times these machines were out of warranty, he collected an $80 trip charge and an $92 diagnostic fee.

The customer has been keeping a hawkeye on him as per my instruction as I want to know how he is proceeding and what he's ruling out as he seems to refuse to call LG tech support for assistance.

He checked power TO the bake element but it was never confirmed he checked element with an ohm meter for proper continuity.
He told the customer he replaced a relay and that did not fix it. Unconfirmed if he actually did or not.


So where should the next step go diagnosis wise? This time the tech atleast freely admitted he's never worked on one before and has no idea what he's doing.
If need be I can go out and perform some diagnostics. The oven sensor would at first glance appear to be functioning correctly as the reading on the control panel closely matches that of the actual oven temperature.
Preheating cycle utilizes the bake element no? So the bake element should be working as intended. Or is preheat done via broil element?

Thanks in advance.

LWD3081ST LG Double Oven Wiring for Display

22 July 2011 - 01:37 PM

So I got a brand spankin new LG LWD3081ST double wall oven into the store here to go on display. We've modified the cabinets in our kitchen showroom to support and hold this beast.

With most other appliances for display purposes I can wire them using cheater cords to run the control panel safely but not this guy.

I took a junction box and a 25 AMP fuse and wired the Green, White, and Black wires with merrets leaving the red alone and capped by itself
Usually this works for almost any appliance but not for this beast. I've seen it running on 120v at tradeshows so I know it can be done the question is how?

I've talked to my rep and he's said he'll talk to his tech guys but won't be able to get back to me til Tuesday, the wall oven weighing in at 325lbs is to be installed today and I really, really don't wanna yank it out again.

If anyone has any ideas let me know.

Multiple Unit Failures Danby Chest Freezers 5.5 Cubic Foot and 7.0 Cubic Foot

26 June 2011 - 04:39 PM

Hello again, your friendly neighbourhood salesjerk here.

Heres one for you, buckle your seatbelts..


So we get a truckload of 5.5 Cubic Foot Danbys DFF555's and their 7 cubic foot brothers into work here.
Prices aren't bad so they were flying off the shelves.

Well, about three weeks ago an older gentleman was at our service desk, yelling loudly about there being no service tech available to fix his new freezer.
The Muddphone rings and I'm summoned. I tell the gentleman to bring it in, I'll give him his money back but first tell me what the issue is.

Freezer wasn't cooling, indicator light was off.

He stated "I tried to fix it like the old ones!"

I said "How didja do that sir?"

"I turned it upside down and fired it up"

Okay so I know his is toast now if it wasn't before. I give him his money back and wrap the freezer in blackwrap, strap it to a pallet and put it into the queue for post mortem.

A week goes by, I stroll into work hauling my toolbox and whistling a merry tune. The weathers nice, sales are good and I've got lots of new appliances to dissect.
Something at the service desk catches my eye, two more of the Danby freezers.. Odd.
I look at their return code reasons, both are Defective/Damaged. Odder still.

I talked with the service desk people, both were returned because they quit cooling.

Okay, back on the pallet, back to Danby, git outta here you heathen appliances.

Two days ago, two more came back.

Well to hell with this I said, lets see what's going on. After taking one and pressure washing the funk outta it I threw it on a cart and wheeled it into my lab, grabbed some power and plugged 'er in.

Nothing.

Well, odd.. okay so I take the access panel off the side.. okay.. OH HEY LG COMPRESSOR! Awesome, love LG stuff, very reliable, easy to work on... however this ones not coming on.
So I prod around a bit, thermostat checks fine, the indicator bulb is toast though, how very odd. So I turn the thermostat down to off, turn it back to cool and on comes Mr. Compressor.

Hrm, vewwwwy interesting I muse to myself, vewwwy interesting indeed.

So I let it run for a good four hours. Iced up real good inside the freezer, colder than a well diggers bum, all is right with the world. Lets see if the compressor is still running...
So I go to touch my hand to the compressor to feel for vibration and HOLY GOOGLY MOOGLY, got a nice burn on my hand. Okay so that can't be right. I take the ol' temp gun out, icey box reads -19.9c,
Compressor while normally a warm/hot item is rocking out at 82c.

Okay not good, not good at all. I remove power, wait a buncha minutes and give it the juice again, compressor doesn't come back on. I leave the thing open so the freezer can warm back up, nope, nadda.

So I wheel out the other returned freezers, same story compressors get BLAZING hot and then refuse to come back on until the compressor is back to room temperature and the thermostat is set back to off.

Well no wonder everybodys stuff is melting, the compressor can't turn itself back on.

So what's causing these bastards to run so bloody hot? They can't all have blocked cap tubes preventing the lube from getting back, can they?

Heres some details on the compressor.

LG MA53LBCM
Model BD155
Code G12701010061155

Right now the returned models (A total of 8, heh) are sitting on a couple pallets stacked like cordwood until I can figure out how to tell Danby to shove em up the demonhole.
The units in the store have been hidden away so nobody can sell them until I can figure this one out.

Any service bulletins or anything going on with these? Recalls? I can't find NOTHIN'

General Failectric Bottom Mount Fridge GBSC0HBXWW

08 June 2011 - 12:13 AM

Customer of mine purchased a GBSC0HBXWW G.E. Fridge from the store when I wasn't around to try and talk them out of it.

I received a call from them telling me that the fridge was D.O.A, after asking them some basic troubleshooting questions I told them I'd refund their money and haul it back to the store.
Upon getting it back to the store I had it hauled to my department for a post mortem.

Slipped on my gloves and rolled out my toolbox preparing for the worst. I plugged it in and made a list of things that were currently working.

When given power fridge waits 30 seconds before showing any signs of life.
Start relay/overload on compressor clicked, waited, clicked again and so on. Compressor eventually made its noisy debut and started, vibrating and getting nice n' warm.
Evap fan ran. Both interior lights lit. Both lights turned off when switches were messed with.
Condensor fan running.

Given the clicks I called my lovely rep and had her send me some parts (Repair is not one of the services we offer but my sales rep knows I hate to see an appliance hit the graveyard/get sent home to its maker)
Replaced the run capacitor and start relay/overload. Compressor starts without clicks.

Hissing in the evaporator area and gurgling can be heard.

Opened the control console in the beer compartment and inspected for any signs of trouble on the small little PCB that I guess acts as a motherboard on this unit. None found. There be a thermistor mounted in this console between a vent from the freezer and between the lightbulb. It looks to be the good kind (flat)
Opened the evap access panel and nothing seems amiss down there at all.

Called up a tech I used to work alongside (Me selling for another place, him fixing for them) we started the fridge again and he felt the compressor come on and a line coming from the side getting nice and warm which seems to indicate things are normal?

It's not an expensive fridge by any means but when something comes dead from the factory I like to know why. Had a Hotpoint (GE again) washer go out to a customer that had some sort of sheet-metal guard on the bottom of the tub that was bent in such a way that the motor could not spin the assembly without the bolts atop the gearcase (I assume? I never opened the damn thing, couldnt get the hub nut off.. ) hitting it stopping it from moving.

I got a really rockin' toolbox and access to some purdy nice multimeters n' such. Where should I start checking to find the root of the problem with this fridge?

Oh, also, that PCB uptop had some sort of crazy insulating cardboard box around it. Inside was some metal I assume to act as insulation. I noticed the metal had some scratches 'n tiny dents inside from where the solder on the PCB was making contact. Probably shorted things out pretty good. Put a multimeter to the metal, sure enough its conductive.. seems like a chunk o' rubber coulda stopped that.

Danke in advance for reading all this jibber-jabber.

Lord G.E. Appliances are a pain in my behind,.


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