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Patricio

Member Since 20 Aug 2011
Offline Last Active Today, 10:47 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: fridge haier model prcs25tdas

14 September 2014 - 10:48 AM

Most refrigerators (all makes) I have had a problem with intermittent lights is either a bad switch or a bad molex connection.  


In Topic: Sansung Model WA422PRHDWR/AA out of balance

11 September 2014 - 09:58 PM

How is your spider & rear bearing?  Is your machine loud or roaring in the spin?  Grasp the tub & give it a good shake  Is it rock steady or does it rattle & roll.   My money is bearing/spider failure   :dazzler:


In Topic: GE Refrigerator GSH22JFTACC

11 September 2014 - 08:40 PM

Ya outta make a blog on this Durham

 

Defrost sensor can definitely do it. I had the same symptoms when a new evap sensor i installed fell off the refrigerant line. Caused frost on food, bottom of icemaker etc. So similarly, an out of spec evap thermistor can do the same.

Two rules you gotta remember

1)ALWAYS TEST ALL SENSORS when dealing with a temp/frost problem.

2) If ya gonna replace a board, replace evap and freezer compartment sensors too if you have a hard-to-diagnose temp issue and you suspect the board. It is really difficult to go back to a customer and say "oh... it wasn't that expensive board you paid for after all, it was only a ten dollar sensor, my bad. "

To avoid this, I simply say, "while I am in the freezer, i strongly suggest replacing the sensor as well as the board. They are prone to failure and we might as well do it since it's only $20 more." I have been known to even replace an evap sensor as a gratuity, just to cover my ass.

 

 

remember that evap sensor also regulates prechill and dwell time. Dwell time is the period after the heater is off and before the fan comes on. If the dwell time is too short, then the fan will come on before the evap has "dripped dried" and the resulting moisture is sprayed around the freezer by the fan creating frozen tiny water droplets. Those droplets will look like frost as opposed to ice... very deceptive.

 

 

Oh, I forgot a couple more rules

3)Evap thermistors are always suspect no. 1. Since it deals with far more temperature extremes than the other thermistors, it is the one that usually fails. Always check/replace it

4)temps provided at the interface on many models, is not only provided by the compartment sensor but by an algorithm that can include other thermistor readings as well. This is done to prevent temp spikes being reported by the interface every time the door is opened. (put a fridge thermometer in a fridge and watch it spike but the temp reading on the interface is steady... (and it's not a delayed reaction involved)


In Topic: VamPLIERS anyone use them?

08 September 2014 - 09:30 AM

Don says: I remember a torpedoman asking me for a Crescent Wrench. 
When I asked him what size; he said doesn't make any difference, I'm
going to use it as a hammer.

Some of this may be true. Judge for yourself.

DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock
out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer
across the room, denting the freshly-painted vertical stabilizer which you
had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench
with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses
from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh--....'

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL:
Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age .

SKILL SAW:
A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS:
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER:
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into
major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms
human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt
to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS:
Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else
is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm
of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES:
Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding
heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on
fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you
want to remove a bearing race.

TABLE SAW:
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for
testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the
ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack
h an dle firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4:
Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR:
A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt
holes thereby ending any possible future use.

BAND SAW:
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good
aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can
after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST:
A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to
disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER:
A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver
tip on the end opposite the handle.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS:
See hacksaw.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style
paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used,
as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER:
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted
screws into non-removable screws.

PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed
to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a
kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we
are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered
to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl
records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines , refund checks, and
rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only
while in use.

DAMMIT TOOL:
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling
'DAMMIT' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you
will need.

:woot: 

Obviously words of experience


In Topic: A world without GE Appliances?

08 September 2014 - 08:53 AM

Does this mean that Electrolux parts are going to become as expensive as GE or GE quality is going to become as sorry as Electrolux as if GE is not sorry enough.



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