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Patricio

Member Since 20 Aug 2011
Offline Last Active Today, 08:15 AM

#307350 Loose topic ends

Posted by Patricio on 10 November 2014 - 10:51 AM

Just hate it when I am researching a problem from another's posting And it just ends with no other word as to whether or not suggestions were tried and found successful or not.   The posting just ends with more questions than not.      Please, I ask that a follow up be posted as to outcome even if it is "I gave up on it". 




#306772 MDG2600BWW Dryer struggles with heavy load

Posted by Patricio on 30 October 2014 - 12:37 PM

Motor showing it's age Replace rollers felt & motor


#306742 Electric probes for diagnosing an HE3t 110.42936200

Posted by Patricio on 29 October 2014 - 11:31 PM

Radio shack has an excellent small probe set for under $25




#306402 Whats your favorite fancy tester

Posted by Patricio on 25 October 2014 - 09:47 PM

http://m.ebay.com/it...961?_mwBanner=1

Did I screw up? This says range outlet tester. Does this work for dryer outlets too?

No you're OK.     The tester has a straight pin that goes into both receptacle (dryer & range).   The 90 degree spade for the dryer limits it 30 amps while the straight spade  allows for 50 amps of current.  The tester does not test for full amperage rather for voltage & correct wiring polarity.  The tester works great for testing both types of 240 receptacles for ranges & dryers.




#306298 Lg washer wm2455hw

Posted by Patricio on 24 October 2014 - 08:45 AM

Give John63 the information he requests & he will get you where you need to go.     John63 has never failed in getting me to my destination.




#305033 Whirlpool Cabrio Dryer WED6200SW0

Posted by Patricio on 07 October 2014 - 08:17 AM

OK found what I was looking for in laundry section under title whirlpool cabrio over heats using my android. Thanks justin


#304350 Cabrio inner basket removal tool

Posted by Patricio on 28 September 2014 - 10:29 AM

I see very few & about half of my clients opt for a new machine after quoting the book price.    Those that I have replaced I use PB blaster which is an excellent solvent It has not been that time consuming getting the tub off (for me anyway).

 

In purchasing a new tool I have criterion that must be passed.  

  •  Am I going to make money or break even on the job I initially going to use it on.  
  •  Do I see in the future a lot of jobs needing that tool whereas I can make a profit. Example is the tool for the Maytag Neptune bearing replacement tool.  When is the last time you replaced one of those bearings.
  •  Is it going to pass my wife's scrutiny for need of this tool.  She is co owner

Sorry Jay I can not justify the expense of a tool used for only one brand of machine that I see as not in production any more.   I am saving that $200 for purchasing an 'ALL Dolly' which I would use more often in my business.   Best of luck in sales to others that see more Cabrio direct drives.  It looks like a high quality tool, but not for me at this point in time.




#304245 Whirlpool WTW4950XW1 Sensing Load No Wash

Posted by Patricio on 26 September 2014 - 06:49 PM

Really Dude  upgrade,  you do not realise the value of this site.  Comparable to the customers who do not see the value of a up to date informed Samurai Appliantology Service engineer & will call craigslist for low tech repair.

 

I see the VMW as the new WP direct drive replacement which will become the work pony of most American middle class.  The DD work horse has been down sized to pony status performance.   Non-the-less the weaker performing VMW will be a mainstay money maker for most of us.   :thumbsup:




#304044 Maytag LSE7806ACE dryer works, washer wont do squat

Posted by Patricio on 24 September 2014 - 09:04 AM

When you go thru your divorce be sure to mention to the attorney that you are pretty sure you know how to proceed in the case & be sure that he/she is not being a professional rip off artist also although I am sure that that the better ones charge a little more than industry standards.   They make a honest living as well as us on this site doing our honest trade.    

 

If you do your research you would find a technician/service engineer that uses a blue book for pricing .  That way you would know that industry standards are uniform in pricing.   Not that You think professional appliance technicians are paid too much for a repair that you are not sure of.   So you insult us to try to tell you how to repair yourself

 

Then if the suggested 'fix does not work I am sure you will insult us again saying we do not know what we are doing.  As I see your attitude is  We are scum bags no matter what.   I generally bend over backwards for my clients, that is why the refer me to others & call me back for other service repairs.  When I come across a potential client like yourself, I generally decline providing service to them suggesting they may find their price range on Craigslist.   Sorry there are to many potential clients out there that really appreciate a Professional Appliance technician.

 

By the way what is your profession so we can lob insults at you?   Enjoy your day 




#303115 GE Refrigerator GSH22JFTACC

Posted by Patricio on 11 September 2014 - 08:40 PM

Ya outta make a blog on this Durham

 

Defrost sensor can definitely do it. I had the same symptoms when a new evap sensor i installed fell off the refrigerant line. Caused frost on food, bottom of icemaker etc. So similarly, an out of spec evap thermistor can do the same.

Two rules you gotta remember

1)ALWAYS TEST ALL SENSORS when dealing with a temp/frost problem.

2) If ya gonna replace a board, replace evap and freezer compartment sensors too if you have a hard-to-diagnose temp issue and you suspect the board. It is really difficult to go back to a customer and say "oh... it wasn't that expensive board you paid for after all, it was only a ten dollar sensor, my bad. "

To avoid this, I simply say, "while I am in the freezer, i strongly suggest replacing the sensor as well as the board. They are prone to failure and we might as well do it since it's only $20 more." I have been known to even replace an evap sensor as a gratuity, just to cover my ass.

 

 

remember that evap sensor also regulates prechill and dwell time. Dwell time is the period after the heater is off and before the fan comes on. If the dwell time is too short, then the fan will come on before the evap has "dripped dried" and the resulting moisture is sprayed around the freezer by the fan creating frozen tiny water droplets. Those droplets will look like frost as opposed to ice... very deceptive.

 

 

Oh, I forgot a couple more rules

3)Evap thermistors are always suspect no. 1. Since it deals with far more temperature extremes than the other thermistors, it is the one that usually fails. Always check/replace it

4)temps provided at the interface on many models, is not only provided by the compartment sensor but by an algorithm that can include other thermistor readings as well. This is done to prevent temp spikes being reported by the interface every time the door is opened. (put a fridge thermometer in a fridge and watch it spike but the temp reading on the interface is steady... (and it's not a delayed reaction involved)




#302789 A world without GE Appliances?

Posted by Patricio on 08 September 2014 - 08:53 AM

Does this mean that Electrolux parts are going to become as expensive as GE or GE quality is going to become as sorry as Electrolux as if GE is not sorry enough.




#302339 Not Run of the Mill Repair

Posted by Patricio on 01 September 2014 - 01:54 PM

Yesterday I had a warm refrigerator/cold freezer complaint.   Culprit was bulging limit which I replaced along with a defrost timer, standard procedure for me when replacing either if these parts.   While there they stated that the refrigerator was leaking water in the FF unit but quit when the temps went up.  I should mention that this is a nice  fishing cabin that they come to on weekends.   Frigerator is 12 years old & has good ice production.

 

Of course having learned this particular model it sounded like the damper shoot styrofoam has separated from the control console easy silicone repair.     No most of the styrofoam has deteriorated along the back wall.   Not having a replacement with me & them leaving & not coming back for 2 weeks, they don't want to turn off the refrigerator but don't want the FF filling up with water.   They only thing Imhad at hand was plumbers putty which I used to make a gasket & fill in the missing styrofoam.  I poured water down the defrost drain  & no leaks.   They will call me    when they come back on whether they want me to replace the styrofroam duct or leave it as it is.

 

 

Any other tech with unusual repairs or insight?




#302336 Not Run of the Mill Repair

Posted by Patricio on 01 September 2014 - 01:36 PM

Continued: 

 

Had a WP VMW where the complaint was tub filled slowly for a week then  tub quit filling.  Lady was mechanically inclined but could not figure this out after checking valve screen & hose pressure.   I arrived & sure enough washer would latch lid & that was it. Immediately I think shift actuator  I put in diagnostic & checked codes.  F0E2 then F5E1.  Suds & door latch faults.   I spot a box of economy  regular detergent (not HE).  Ok that is the suds error.   Door latch error when the unit locked & lid lock light is on steady.   

 

Take out of diagnostic & reenter diagnostics.   Put into auto test mode everything works correctly.   As it goes thru cycles I question client.  She had disconnected lid latch thinking of past direct drive lid switches.    That explained the lid switch  fault.    I do shift actuator testing, within parameters.    Then find out that she purchased this unit from craigslist where it worked (filled & ran) just fine.

 

I asked did it ever work correctly when she got it home.   She replied it took forever to fill, but did fill for a week before shutting down completely.      I pondered for a minute while looking under machine at pully, splutch & actuator.   also looked that capacitor was there.   Then my mind clicked & I put machine into calibration mode.    

 

After finishing calibration put clothes in machine & started cycle.   Usual wait for machine to kick into gear then machine stared filling & sensing.  Cycle took off I collected & left giving instructions to call me if any more problems.    Prognosis is that moving machine cause it to go out of calibration.  My learning from this is to calibrate any time machine is moved, not just when replacing components.  No returnd calls.




#302333 Not Run of the Mill Repair

Posted by Patricio on 01 September 2014 - 01:00 PM

A few of last couple of months repairs that were ''different"

 

 

1).  a Kenmore () SxS warm fresh food side complaint.   Found a frozen evaporator & an ADC not putting unit into defrost cycle.  Replaced ADC & was able to force defrost.    Several days later client called back & reported temps in FF not below 46-48‚Äčo.   Evap coils lightly evenly frosted.  After checking mechanical damper & that vents were clear.  Put a call out on Voxer for help, Kurt suggested possibly weak evap fan motor.   Fan felt like it was moving air sufficiently.

 

  I replaced motor with OEM replacement after Kurts suggestion & immediately felt an improvement in air flow.  Temps in FF started to  drop & stabilized in mid 30's. No more call back, thanks Kurt.

 

2).  A Frigidaire top freezer complaint of warm refrigerator had a very heavily ice frosted evaporator.  Put defrost timer into defrost cycle checked heater for heating.  Evap started to drip & heater stared to sizzle as dripping fell on calrod.  Of course I helped defrost with steam gun.  Diagnoses was timer motor not advancing so I replaced.  

 

   Three weeks later I get call back  for warm temps again.   Evaporator was frosted wit ice patches especially on end caps & in middle.  Two sections 6  inches from ends not heavily frosted almost to top of evap.  Was puzzled.  I advanced timer to defrost cycle & observed.  Could not discern if heater was heating properly.   Checked amp draw & had 2.7 amps.    It was in the evening so I turned the lights off.  I notice that the heater was getting red only in two small sections of the calrod (6 inches from each side).  I had brought a new OEM replacement heater with me but did not want to change unless I had a reason to.   This was my reason I needed.   I swapped heaters, took amp reading from new installation & had over 3 amps.   Calrod glowed cherry red across entire length of heater.   No call backs

 

Amended note to the calrod heater:  I did test the ohms resistance reading between the old & new heater  there was a difference but not by only a few ohms less than 10 if I remember correctly.




#300206 GE Fridge model PFS22SISBSS Cooling Issues. Searched here, but would like t...

Posted by Patricio on 02 August 2014 - 05:54 PM

Why would you want to repair all the issues at once if addressing one of those issues may either solve many of the other issues or make all the other issues irrelevant?

 

If    A + B = C  

&    C - A = B

.'.    C - B = A

 

 







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