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Patricio

Member Since 20 Aug 2011
Offline Last Active Today, 12:40 AM

#260472 First for Me

Posted by Patricio on 08 July 2013 - 11:47 PM

A call from an elderly lady, Her small upright freezer just went dead.   Asked usual questions, plugged in, breaker tripped, Throw breaker & turn back on, plug in something that works into receptacle.   All questions answered, electricity to receptacle.   Arrived for call see freezer with extension cord plugged into receptacle disappearing behind freezer.    Pull freezer out & extension cord ends with freezer plug cord laying there ... unplugged.  I plug it in & unit runs. 

 

Now what,   Charge her a service call or do something.   I get my vacuum & clean unit out, use my meter to check amp draw.   Feel bad about having to charge.    Then she lets me off hook.

 

   Asks if I do electrical work. she needs a switch replaced.    I carry light switches, plug receptacles, plate covers, & other electric paraphernalia on truck, I find I have to replace sometimes at customers homes so I can do my repairs.  End up making good feel money (I did something rather than just show up).

 

I realize I have to make something for my time but an elderly widow on limited income,  that sits on me.   I'm not a vulture.




#260440 Cabrio Washer Drain Pump

Posted by Patricio on 08 July 2013 - 07:47 PM

Sorry I kept them.   Need them to add to my collection of useless stuff. :tongue:




#260300 infared gun

Posted by Patricio on 07 July 2013 - 06:13 PM

Most troubleshooting is up close and personal. I've used both types in the field. Let's put it this way: you could use the non-laser pointer type but you'll always be wishing you had the laser. If you have the laser-pointer type, you'll never wish you didn't have the laser.

I have a IF that has the option of turning the laser on or off to save battery power.  I always leave the option on.    I wish I had an on/off switch as the thing comes on carrying in my bag because the trigger gets press by something else in the bag.




#260238 GE Arctica LSHS6LGZBCSS

Posted by Patricio on 07 July 2013 - 11:50 AM

All is good ten days later, No callback, If it works OK for ten, it should be good for 155 more, repair complete.




#260127 Samsung WF218ANB fails to drain

Posted by Patricio on 05 July 2013 - 10:49 PM

:thumbsup:

Yes I pulled 2 bit piece out of a Samsung washer  a month ago.  Laughing I told customer this quarter going to cost $200 repair bill.  Charged them $180 & he paid me $225.  :thumbsup:

Got a call back on this machine.   Complaint was does not drain or spin.   Serviced call today expecting to replace the pump.   It was another damn quarter.  Asked if they had a quarter slot machine in the house.  They did.    Gave them a reduced price, they still tipped me an extra $25...Something about the number 25...We all could use a few more customers like these...Both are self employed.  :thumbsup:




#259824 Samsung door removal

Posted by Patricio on 02 July 2013 - 11:59 PM

Same way I put it in today.   Just went

 

My order of preference if I have to remove doors etc to get a fridge into a house is .....fridge door handles.....House doors........fridge doors.

Removing handles & house door would not leave enough clearance,  all 4 refer doors must come off.

 

patio door access ?

None.

 

How do they plan to get the fridge out when it craps out in 10 years?

Same way I put it in.   Went to house, spent 90 minutes total on site.  Samsung was in garage loaded full & running.  After careful inspection started at top.   Lots of dismantling to get doors & drawer doors off.   Was not difficult at all.  taking food out was most time.   Putting back together was a piece of cake.   Paid $105 cash, customer's wife happy.   My wife happy (good paycheck).   :wink:




#259494 Whirlpol cabrio WTW6600SB2

Posted by Patricio on 29 June 2013 - 09:54 PM

Another update, Rose called a week later saying the LD code showed up again in the Heavy duty cycle.    I went back & installed new pump.   old pump seemed to be working OK, I changed it any way.     So far so good.  Drain pump sounds different & no LD code.      Go figure.




#259128 Fisher Paykel

Posted by Patricio on 25 June 2013 - 10:07 PM

You can try Sears, although I'd rather get the parts directly from F&P.
http://www.searspart...-model/WA37T26G
96180-A Parts Manual.
https://www.dropbox....6GW_1_FP_US.pdf

Thanks Spannerwrench.   Sears did not have anything available.

 

If you end up ordering from Sear get your 15% discount, (should be good till 7/7/13), use discount code: SPRING15

 

If for some reason that doesn't work or after the expiration date use code: PARTS anytime to get a 10% discount.

Thanks for the discount Budget Appliance,  like I said, Sears drew a blank.

 

There's also FisherPaykelParts.net and FisherPaykelParts.com (which are not part of F&P parent company).  And eBay for what NIB items may be listed at any given time.

 

 

Fisher paykel parts.com is a good place. Your customer may not fix it. To put a board and a pump in can be costly. Thats probably your issue.

Thanks again my friends,  Parts are expensive.

 

 

 

Here is the kicker.   Had customer drain tub out by using a water hose to siphon.   Unit lit up & began to fill.  Switched to spin & nada nothing.  Laid unit back to wall, cleaned spider webs out of underneath, spun propeller both ways.  Unplugged leads to drain & diverter valve.  plugged back in, got meter out to check voltage.  Turned machine on while leaned back & wa la.  Pump kicked in & drained.   Set back up thru towels in (this is how I get my shop rags washed...While I test machines)  Unit worked without a hitch.

 

$100 please, total onsite time ... 45 minutes    Thanks everyone for the lesson on Fisher Paykel washer.   Not much to them.




#258310 Kenmore FL Washer 110.46757801

Posted by Patricio on 16 June 2013 - 06:30 PM

Don't get side tracked with the main control unit.  A F35 error is almost always the Analog Pressure Sensor.

 

Unplugging the pressure hose and it still not working doesn't by no means mean the problem is the CCU.  If you just remove the pressure hose and it works that would till you that it had something to do with a blockage in the air dome or pressure hose.

 

The problem is something goes wrong in the APS and it constantly thinks there is a SUDS issue.

 

DO NOT blow into the APS, the pressure transducer is a somewhat delicate electronic pressure sensor that is only designed for very low pressures and if it isn't already bad blowing into very well could damage it.

 

I am 90%+ positive that the problem is the pressure sensor, now the sensor needs to be replaced because I blew in it (did nothing like I expected, da, no bellows in it) Somethin new I learned.

 

 

I have one of these apart that I have just recently changed out and have pulled it all apart and have been thinking about starting a discussion to see If I can get any feedback from FixYourBoard on what may fail in these units.  They are ridiculously expensive and if the pressure transducer is the part that goes bad I have source them for around $10 + shipping and might try to replace the pressure transducer to see if that would fix it.  I just purchased a rebuilt one from Corecentric  so they are rebuilding them now.

 

A couple of years ago it seems there was a period that these were on backorder every where because of some manufacture problem and I'm wondering if maybe it was with the original manufacture for the pressure transducer because when looking up the numbers on the pressure transducer I couldn't find anything with the original manufacture number and seems now the only company making a lot of these pressure transducers is a company named FreeScale.

 

The original pressure transducer had what I think is a manufacture symbol of "EN" then

SPV5004G and a date code of K0?22 - the ? is a number that got scratched off when I pulled the computer chip board out of the plastic housing.

 

Here's the link to the pressure transducer on these APS If anyone is interested in learning a little about these units.

http://parts.arrow.c...or/mpxv5004gc6u

 

Very interesting & informative.

 

There are a bunch of surface mount resistors, a few triacs/transistors and capacitors then two other main larger IC chips, one being an actual micro-controller processor that takes the analog voltage signal that the pressure transducer outputs and turns it into a digital signal and communicates with the main CCU so it can detect very small changes in water level as a digital number that the computer can work with.  The other larger IC chip I haven't been able to track down what it is yet, couldn't find any kind of reference to it, markings look like this:

A large "F" in leaning script which is a manufactures symbol then after that VG3AB

LMV

358 or (Maybe 368)

 

The micro-controller processor is made by ATMEL,

TINY13

20SU

 

The pressure transducer on the small board should be somewhat simple to check if it is working since it is a somewhat simple pin out on the chip, it has eight legs coming out of the chip but only three of them actually have any function the rest are only board mounting points.  Pin out 1 - is the corner that is notched and the pin has a small notch in it.

Pin 1 - Not used

Pin 2 - Vs - Supply Voltage (normally 5 vDC, max of 5.25 vDC)

Pin 3 - Grn - Ground

Pin 4 - Vout - Signal voltage output depending on pressure (1.0-5.0 vDc with a 5 vDC input)

 

When I visit again with the new part I will check the DC voltage on the old part & new part, Hope I don't short it out.

 

My suspicion from the research I've done on these is the pressure transducer fails and the base out put voltage that should probably be right around 1.0 vDC with no water/ no pressure on the transducer shifts so it always sees SUDS.

 

The sequence of event you see when you get a SUDS error is for the unit to fill with something like 4 liters of water then sit for 4 or 5 minutes, (I forget - but on the SUDS error on the tech sheet it tell you this), to try and kill the SUDS then it drains and if it still sees the SUDS it goes to the F35 hard fail and locks up and sometimes only way to reset is to unplug machine to reset to unlock door.

 

Very true, that is what transpired.

 

There are two different part numbers for the APS and I believe they can be interchanged but you may have to cut one of the keys off the wire connector that plugs into the APS if you don't get the correct one.  A while back when they were all on back order that was what people where having to do.  The other APS  can be found quite a lot cheaper than this one but I haven't determined for sure if they are interchange yet or not, they all use the same pressure transducer put the micro-processor actually has, I believe, an eprom memory and is actually programmed with assembly or c coding and it maybe different - possibly different size tubs or something to do with the one for the steamer or non-steamer models.   So far the only two I've had to replace have been on steamer models so I don't know if they use the APS on non-steamer models.

 

This is a steamer model.

 

Very thankful for this information, May I ask where or how you educate yourself in matters like this.   I am always trying to find literature & training for the different appliances.   You are an asset to this site like most of the others that share the knowledgeable info you all have learned over your years of plying your trade.




#258005 Whirlpol cabrio WTW6600SB2

Posted by Patricio on 13 June 2013 - 01:04 AM

Lady called next day saying washer still not finishing cycle, went back yesterday morning.   Pulled control panel off & checked/blew thru pressure hose,  Open & no kinks.  Pulled basket off of spindle, difficult getting off.   Not muck, but some gookus in agitator hub gear.  Found a nichel & quarter in  sump basin.  Actually tub was pretty clean.   Used steel wool to clean spindle & basket sleeve.    Installed basket & immediately noticed it lifted & engaged hub gear much easier.   Washer did a load of towels in normal cycle without any problem.  The little bit of snot coating gear must of hindered the meshing of the gears in the spin cycle thus gave the long drain code although all the water was pumped out.

 

I'm on a roll now, my learning curve is smoothing out.   I can do this, with a little help from ya all.    Mucho gracious Hombres.  :tongue:  :thanks:   Patricio

One last note:  Is there a way to clear the error code, does go away with time, or does sta with the machine until next errors surface?  Unplugging Does not reset & tech manual indicates that codes are retained.




#257863 Jenn air range F7 error code

Posted by Patricio on 11 June 2013 - 08:39 PM

You could replace the sensor and the damaged wires and see if the oven control unit notices the new sensor, I.E. no shorted key..............It needs to be replaced any way........................

Update: Ordered temp sensor & received it other day. Arrived this afternoon to install. Pulled range out, little difficult because downdraft exhaust fan pressed up against oven discharge shoot. Had to splice sensor wires to old sensor wire because connectors were not compatible. Probably should have soldered wires together, left solder iron back at shop trailer, used porcelain wire nuts.

Old sensor wiring was burnt to a crisp past connector plug along back side of oven. Before repair, having old sensor hanging in back of oven I turned on bake set to 300 degree. Oven Led showed 140 then flashed F7 & shut down. Pressed stop to clear error, then activated Broil which heated with no error. Stopped & reactivated Bake which heated for a few minutes then shut down with a F5 code. I realized oven was not sensing any temp.

Next I installed splice & set oven again to bake cycle. Temp display started registering oven temps. After rising to 175 F7 again. reset 2 more times then oven worked fine rising to 300 degree. I adjusted temp to 425 & it rose to that level. I shut down & turned breaker off then installed oven & fan back into counter. Oven cooled to 245 while reinstalling. Final bake set back up to 350 & pressed start. I also turned all four burners on, oven & surface burners worked great no code. Collected my check & elderly lady was very grateful especially after giving 10% discount.

Moral of story error codes not necessary what they are suppose to be, persistence & being thorough pays off. I is happy, another battle won with the help of Appliantology.org.


#257664 Samsung WF218ANB fails to drain

Posted by Patricio on 09 June 2013 - 11:04 PM

You might want to check the plastic elbow on the end of that drain pump hose that is shown in the picture.

 

Samsung saw it fit to make the entrance of that elbow the perfect size for a quarter to enter then just at the turn they neck it down to just a small enough size the quarter can't go any further down the pipe and makes a perfect flapper valve inside the plastic elbow.

Yes I pulled 2 bit piece out of a Samsung washer  a month ago.  Laughing I told customer this quarter going to cost $200 repair bill.  Charged them $180 & he paid me $225.  :thumbsup:




#256178 GE Refrigerator GTH18XCTZRWW

Posted by Patricio on 28 May 2013 - 08:19 PM

Sorry this topic slipped me to update conclusion

 

This is probably your culprit.

 

http://www.repaircli...5X10900/1535852

 Replaced board back in February, that took care of it,  Thanks Scott, great call.   Patricio




#256044 GE Fridge Model# PGSS5PJX: Is this a Samsung? and how to I get to Evap Fan?

Posted by Patricio on 27 May 2013 - 11:59 AM


Recently I purchased an inexpensive laminator. Gonna laminate exploded and annotated pictures of the boards and procedures and put them in a binder. Yeah, i got my tablet but sometimes when working on appliances, nothing beats a hard copy. Especially when it's large... I guess I'm making my on "Samsung for Dummies" book.

Are you going to put this out in public print copies 7 market it.   I have a radio shack 'kindle' but it is not like a hard copy.   I like to write in/on all my books.  Keeps my notes write there.  Been doing that since my college days.   Never have liked scrolling.   I like turning the page & refreshing myself with my little notes.




#255802 any Rat stories out there?

Posted by Patricio on 24 May 2013 - 11:19 AM

Call to an high dollar range bought off craigs list.    Oven control board dead.   Initial inspection notice rat damage.  home owner got rid off rats so I look for collateral damage, wire chewing.   Open control panel (front of range) Worst case of roach shit I've every seen.  Plugs so nasty,  customer touched diode & it fell off.  I got that crap up my nose I was done.  Told customer to clean unit up & I would price new board.   Customer said hell no, he is going to buy new one, he is done with craigs list.   Went home immediately (Last call of day)  and hot showered.  Still feels like a got it up my nose. :down:







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