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Member Since 24 Dec 2011
Offline Last Active Apr 30 2014 02:15 PM

Topics I've Started

D/D Tranny knocking "What Part needed" ?

29 April 2014 - 11:29 AM

I have been running into this for too long now. I test a top load whirlpool style washer and often get the loud knocking noise from the transmission during agitate. As the transmission is too expensive too replace and resell the machine for a reasonable profit I end up scrapping it out.


I do have the time to putter around and rebuild the tranny myself BUT what part is it that actually causes the knocking. They are a pretty simple unit and many of the parts are available but again too expensive too try just replacing parts as a test or learning experience. I don't believe it's a combination of many parts worn out. I think it's one part that really causes the problem I just don't know which one and I'm sure someone has figured it out ahead of me.


So I ask if anyone has gotten into the innards of these transmissions and knows for sure which part it is that is causing this way too common problem. I'm tired of scrapping these things out.

cross reference help needed MD# 592-491080

31 March 2014 - 05:49 PM

So after spending several hours searching the elusive Kenmore cross reference and a lot of WTFs along the way. I realized I will need to ask for help from others who may have that magical knowledge and skill to be able to cross reference Kenmore parts.


This is a Kenmore Front load washer. (I believe it's actually Samsung made) I've been noticing lately that the Spider (or tub support) is becoming available as a seperate part for many front load washers so I'm hoping for this machine also.

Along with that model number I get as far as these Samsung parts. Possibly Part number....

DC97-12222A at Part number: AP4213004

Part number: AP4213004


DC97-14875A at Part number: AP4342274

Part number: AP4342274

BOTH of those look exactly the same as the broken assy I need to replace. I don't want to just go and blindly order one of these. (cheaper one of course) only to find that it is in fact NOT the same.

So any help would be appreciated. Maybe this could even help others.

MVWX700XW1 Maytag. Not enough water

25 March 2014 - 03:17 PM

This is the first of these I've had in my shop. It has no error codes, runs nice a quiet BUT it just doesn't fill enough. I've read that some customers say these washers appear to not have very much water but the one I have is REALLY low. That can't be right! I'm asking if this may be normal for these machines or is it a problem and is it a fixable problem?


A regular laundry basket sized load is left probably 2/3 above the water level during the wash cycle. (after the machine senses how much water the load needs) The clothes just seem to get all twisted rather than washing and the tops layer of clothes are left not really being washed at all. Other brands but similar machines I've had seem to fill to a level of a couple inches of water above the clothes while this machine only fills to aprox a few inches of water in total.


Anyone familier with these?

Need substitute numbers

17 May 2013 - 10:16 AM

I find many Maytag OEM parts are quite expensive. A customer needs a new defrost timer but he is dirt poor and cannot afford even the cost price of the timer. My supplier cannot give me a sub number. The OEM pt number is 68233-3 which is my cost $49.00 and is a 10 h 21 min cycle. Can I use one of the cheaper generics that "here" run me about $15.00. I think a generic 12 hour timer should work if I can come up with a decent part number.

I don't want to end up with a "no timer run in defrost" timer if I put the wrong one in.

Any help would be appreciated.

Maytag Neptune No Spin MAH5500BWW

11 May 2013 - 12:23 PM

This seems to be a bit different that the no spin issues I have read here. I tested this machine with water and laundry and it worked perfectly but needed bearings. I did the bearing and seal job and now it won't spin. I tested first with quick wash with a load of clothes and water hooked up and it did everything perfectly except no spin then tested with just spin cycle and still no spin. (It does pump out properly)

The door lock seems to lock properly and the door lock light comes on. I get no errors. I have unplugged it and tried it several times now after pushing various wire connectors in to make sure they are tight.


The strange thing is that once the timer counts down to 7 minutes left it suddenly jumps to 0, shuts off and gives the finish beep as if all went well.


OOPS. I posted this in the wrong section. Should have been in Laundry Repair Forum. Maybe someone in power can move this for me????

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