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Member Since 07 Jan 2012
Offline Last Active Dec 13 2014 04:37 PM

Topics I've Started

A tale of Kitchenaid KEBC107KSS0...

30 September 2013 - 08:03 PM

As Mssr. Kipling would say, Dear Best Beloveds: 


This is a tale in which the moral of the story is: don't run the self clean. Sure, sure, everybody laugh. But I did it too, in a moment of weakness. Probably around a holiday when I was desperate to have my oven be perfect. 


I have, as many do, the Kitchenaid Superba oven. This one is a wall unit, the KEBC107KSS0. My hunch is that it doesn't matter what kind you have. Good news for me is that I have another oven, which is why I could let this one sit for literally two or three years. Otherwise...crisis. 


One day, many moons ago, I had the unwise idea to run the self clean in the night. Awoke to the incessant beeping of the oven and the realization that the oven would not heat. I knew that I had broken the cardinal rule of Do Not Self Clean. 


It was still a fantastic clock and timer, however.


So I ordered a new thermal fuse. The problem is, this oven is a wall unit. You need a strong friend to help pull it out and rest it on a very sturdy table (not a fancy table--scratches) while you are doing this work. Unless you are a singularly strong (and youthful) person with a back brace, please do not try to do this by yourself. The thing that is the most insulting thing about this job is that it's not about your smarts or your ability to sleuth out the problem. You do the self clean, your oven stops heating, it's really easy. Thermal fuse. Get the part. The hard part is unfortunately the weight of the stupid oven. 


Just pull off the trim, though, and depending on your electrical/conduit situation, you may need to unwire it at the box (top tip: turn off the breaker first). I did. Wise. 


But the weight of the oven is significant. Please take your time, and use your knees. Have a really sturdy table. And remember the friend. 


And that's the worst of it. The thermal fuse, you pull it off with two screws and two finger pinches; you put the new one on with the same, but opposite, activities. That step takes probably a minute. Everything else, ten to twenty depending. And when you are done, and your oven heats again...the warm smell of success. 


So, the moral yet again is, use a sponge with nonstick friendly scrubby on one side to clean your oven. Don't even think about self clean. 



A tricky one: bompani #bo693jz/n aka Explorer stove and oven sorry if it is too tricky,...

05 August 2013 - 09:02 PM

Please pretty please and thank you!

Kitchenaid KEBC107KSS0 service manual, please

21 July 2013 - 08:56 PM

And yes, this is a boneheaded self clean mistake. I have had the part for ages, just have to remember where it all is on the unit. Please and thank you! I promise to post another saga for the intrepid. Tamara

Samsung WF328AAW (and esp WF328AAW/002) ND saga...posted here for your info and possibl...

30 June 2013 - 08:05 PM

Dear friends of appliantology dot org,

What follows is a saga of the Samsung washer WF328AAW/002. You may recall from previous postings of more sage appliantologists that the loud, grating noise from your washer just ahead of when you think it might be draining, or spinning, is probably owing to a failed drain pump. Following this noise, and a cessation of activity around the time when the water should come out and then your clothes spin a bit, after which you would happily place your clothes in the dryer, you realize that there is a #fail and you may begin to see a code on their washer that says 'nd' (which is short for "this thing is not draining on it own, so you better figure out how to remove water just employed to clean your clothes.”). My washer started making this noise in mid-May and I chose to ignore it for awhile, knowing that doom was about to appear and that I should get ready for intervention. Then it stopped routinely at 11 minutes ahead of the cycle finish and a 5 gallon pail (use the little hose that creeps out from the front to let it drain) was the only way a load could be completed.

And if this happens to you, you would be wise to check this post (link), this post (link), as well as the Samurai’s own video (very aptly) titled Fixing a No Drain Problem in a Front Load Washer by Cleaning the Gookus out of the Drain Pump (linked here).

I thought, hey, I anticipate gookus is at least part of my issue (3 dogs, some cats, 8yo), so I will try that first. And indeed, there was sufficient gookus such that when I closed up the washer after cleaning out the hoses, I figured I had it beat. And you know what that means. So I came back here to learn that I should really have just ordered the part in the beginning. So I did. You think story over? You know.

If you have read these boards and you have a dreaded Samsung washer you may recall that of the model WF328AAW, there are not one but two modifications that took place within the run of the model (link). And that even Samsung may not know, when you call them, that this dreaded triple threat known as the 002 EXISTS. So I re-opened the washer with the brand new part in my hand (my first clue that something was amiss was that the drain pump was in the FRONT, not the back). And the part I had ordered (the DC96-01414A) looked way, way different than the drain pump I was encountering. Freakout!

Additional sleuthing uncovered that my version of the model takes the DC96-01700A (placed in front, and the twisty knob thing on the front of your dryer that you’re supposed to clean out every once in awhile is integral to this--if you haven’t, lately, pop open the little hatch on the front and clean it out, just to become familiar with the place where your drain pump is--and where you eventually will be replacing it). There is a really long tube in this drain pump.

Of course, in the process of taking the washer apart several times, my (not careful) other half, who usually does not get involved in my careful repairs, decided to butt in. And he stripped out the threading on the screws for the door latch. So, of course, I had to get another door latch (DC64-00519B in case you need it). Word to the wise...be gentle when you are working on these machines. They are fussy. In the meantime we used plumber's tape to get the screws in. Sigh. I always get out multiple plastic containers with separate compartments (call me retentive, sure) when I take apart the dryer or washer so that I can keep them all straight. There are about three, maybe four different kinds of screws. Being careful is an advantage here. Take photos as you go and or mark what screws go where. For peeps like me, it makes the putting back together process much less stressful (painter’s or masking tape to mark them is overkill, but overkill that I appreciate). War of the genders irrelevant when laundry is piling up.

Photos are attached. Once I ordered the right part, the replacement was fairly straightforward. But as the Samurai says, check to make sure you’ve cleaned the gookus out of the hoses around the drain pump (I can see where a quarter would fit it perfectly, thus jamming it--alas, not my issue).

Of course, your mileage may vary. But since I’ve gained so much learning here, I wanted to post this, with all the photos I could, in case you have the WF328AAW/002.

I also have the matching dryer, and have replaced the heating element three times. The last time I replaced the whole assembly (details on that homework assignment are posted here), and it helped. Then again, I’m only six months into the thing.

It’s strange. My dad has the same model of washer and dryer (think is the first variant, not my 3rd one, as they do not have the front hatch on the washer) and they have yet to have any problems with it. Generally speaking, engineers improve things. But here...I do not know.

Na zdravi! (Czech for 'cheers') and thanks to everyone who posts useful information here.




Bosch dishwasher SHX45 manual request

27 May 2013 - 01:12 PM

Please and thank you! I checked to make sure that it is not already posted here. I have the dreaded 'flood condition' feeling. 

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