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Member Since 19 Aug 2006
Offline Last Active Oct 26 2013 08:25 PM

Topics I've Started

Dryer GE DSXH43EFOWW tumbles, no heat

25 October 2013 - 02:51 PM

This dryer was overheating. I replaced one thermostat ( had a little trouble w the drum, but was able to put it back OK).
Dryer works fine for a few weeks. Tenant is running it, hears a "pop". Dryer stops.
After restart, dryer tumbles but does not heat.
Checked outlet, it pulls 220, so it is not a breaker issue.
Replaced both thermostats. Visually inspected heating element, found nothing wrong.
Dryer still tumbling but not heating.
What else can be wrong?

dsxh43ef0ww GE dryer noisy drum

27 September 2013 - 09:46 PM

The dryer (GE dsxh43ef0ww) was overheating. I replaced the cycling thermostat, but because I could not find any information about how to access the old thermostat, I ended up removing the drum before I realized that I did not need to.


Anyway, after I installed the new cycling thermostat , I put the dryer back together. It was no fun reattaching the drum to the  shaft support, holding the heavy drum while trying to align the holes in the back of the drum with the holes in the shaft support. Maybe there is a trick to make that part easier.  The numerous videos online show how to remove a drum, but not how to reinstall it...


The dryer does not overheat anymore BUT now the drum sounds like there is a pair of gym shoes tumbling (or more exactly one shoe), even when it is empyty and level.

I suspect I must have done something wrong reattaching the drum to the shaft support. I dread having to remove the drum once more in order to reattach it (possibly) better.

Any help on how to do that better (and easier) is welcome.



Magic Chef CGR3740ADH stove convert to natural gas locate orifice hoods

05 October 2011 - 12:32 AM

I need to convert a Magic Chef (Maytag) CGR3740ADH gas stove from LP to natural gas. The manual I have mention

1. to change the pressure regulator settings. It is easy to locate at the back of the stove and the conversion is no problem.
2. to "screw the burner orifice hoods away from the pins, approximately 1 1/2 to 2 turns".
3. to adjust the burner air shutter to the widest opening.

1 and 3 are no problem but 2 is.

I think I might be able to "screw the burner orifice hoods away from the pins, approximately 1 1/2 to 2 turns" if I knew where these "burner orifice hoods" are located. The manual does not give any hint about actual location.
The stove has sealed top burners, that I could remove with a boa wrench. I think the top "orifice hoods" maybe under the top burners, but I want to make sure before I start taking the stove apart.

I understand there is one "orifice hood" per top burner, plus one for the broiler and one for the oven burner.


PS: Just out of curiosity, what would happen if the regulator is set for natural gas, the stove is connected to natural gas, and the "orifice hoods" are tight against the pins? a low flame? no flame at all?

blinking Normal & Cancel lights Whirlpool dishwasher GU2300 XTST0

21 September 2011 - 05:57 PM


I have a Whirlpool dishwasher GU2300XTST0 installed since 2009 in a rental. It has worked fine until a few weeks ago.

The tenants said that they had loaded the machine and were ready to start a cycle but it did not start, and the "Normal " and "Cancel" lights on the display were blinking.

I read everything I could get online about troubleshooting the appliance. I concluded it might be a faulty connection between the keyboard and the control board.
I located the "technical sheet" under the kickplate, and got access to the control board, that was actually filthy. The inside of the box had roach feces, and roaches apparently were living inside the door (Ugh). I carefully cleaned as best as I could, disconnected and reconnected the keyboard, reset the control board, closed everything, tested. It worked fine for a short while.

Yesterday the tenants called with the same problem. "Normal " and "Cancel" lights blinking, no other signs of life, no reaction to any command.

I am considering replacing the control board, but as it is quite expensive, I am wondering if this is what I should do or if I am going in a wrong direction.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Holiday gas range low flame (model number went with old grease)

19 September 2011 - 12:28 AM


I just purchased a house that had a very dirty Holiday gas freestanding range, probably from the 70's or 80's. I cleaned it thoroughly, so thoroughly that the model number disappeared with the caked grease. The tag is now blank :( I attach a picture, maybe somebody can identify it?

The burners and oven light from a pilot flame, and they all work, with a nice but small blue flame.

The issue is that when one burner is on and I turn on another one, the flames on the first one become very small. The flame on the second one are very small as well. In addition, each burner lights from the pilot without problem, but only one at a time. When one is on, a second one will not light from the pilot, but it will with an old fashioned match.
When more than one burner is lit, all the burners reduce to a level that is not sufficient to boil water.

What could be the issue and how can I fix it? Could the supply line be clogged? It it is the case, how can I clean it?
I welcome all ideas and suggestions.


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