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Member Since 07 Feb 2012
Offline Last Active May 11 2015 07:34 PM

Topics I've Started

Seasonal equipment advice

19 March 2013 - 08:42 AM

This area (upstate NY) has a BIG problem with ethanol in fuel. The ethanol will separate from the gasoline as it ingests moisture and fall out of solution with the gasoline. The end result is low octane fuel, and a layer of water in the tank. Failure to deal with this will guarantee starting issues in the fall. There are 2 popular ways of dealing with this issue, first is to avoid fuel containing ethanol (very difficult to do) or add a stabilizer that has an enzyme that is supposed to maintain the miscibility of the ethanol in gasoline.


Gasoline that uses ethanol is made to a lower octane rating and the ethanol raises the octane level. When the ethanol absorbs water (which it loves to do, think dry gas) then goes through a significant temperature swing (seasonal changes) the ethanol/water blend falls to the bottom of the tank and is often the first thing picked up by the carb. The majority of old style stabilizers only dealt with the gasoline evaporative issues (“light ends” or the main volatile component of gas evaporates readily) leaving a varnish like substance. The “new fuels” don’t survive long enough for this problem to manifest.


The water that sits in the bottom of the tank can rot steel tanks, and will foul carbs when it sits in the fuel bowl.


My advice is:

Treat ALL seasonal fuels with  Star-Tron, or similar ethanol treatments.


Purchase only enough fuel for the season, and treat every batch

           (you never know when the last seasonal use is going to be)

           Treating all the fuel ensures the treated stuff is IN the whole fuel system.


Using a flashlight look into the fuel tanks and see if separation has occurred,

           If it has, dispose of the fuel, it isn’t useable. You can dispose of small (less than 2 gallons) in your car, if you

           have a mostly full tank.


Drain fuel bowls when possible, and use fuel shutoffs to empty fuel bowls (shut off fuel and run till stall)

            This can reduce the amount of muck that will deposit in the jet.


If you have contaminated fuel, and the machine won’t start, or seems under powered, remove the fuel, and replace

             with fresh treated fuel, including the fuel bowl. If that doesn’t fix it, you will need to have the carb serviced

             replacement needle and seat kits, are available, lets can often be cleaned, DO NOT ADJUST MIXTURES,

             they are set by the factory, and adjustment can violate emission laws.


Hope this helps with ethanol understanding, please look at the many online discussions of ethanol in gasoline for more tips to deal with it. Boat owners should be particularly wary of ethanol in fuel. The ethanol can destroy fiberglass tanks as well.


Thanks for your attention,



Chief Apprentice Appliantologist; Apliantology.org

Dave Bradshaw

ASE certified Mechanic

Nate Certified HVAC Tech

GE electric range gives 1 free fireworks show, then retires...

13 November 2012 - 08:59 AM

Good day all!,
My GE range this morning treated my daughter to a fireworks display as she tried to broil Facon (yes I mean turkey bacon, Facon). I assume the pork gods mustve been getting revenge on her for desicrating the altar of bacon, but thats another story. The broil element failed and despite our imediate switching to off, the arc maintained for longer than I ecpected.
I have killed the power at the breaker, and grabbed mod/ser numbers, and made a quik visual check, looks like the broil element is no longer an element. My question is what is the likelyhood of the switch or board to be also damaged? I'll not get to look carefully at it till at least tonight, unless I have to run a lot of HVAC calls tonight....

Oh its a :

Lennox Pulse Furnaces G-14, and G-21 series general info FYI

09 February 2012 - 09:34 PM

Hello all, Lennox is finally giving in on the Pulse units. Now first let me say I am a Pulse furnace fan, they are pretty neat units. That said, lennox will no longer make most of the "critical parts" for these furnaces. There is an aftermarket ignition control for these, made by BASO BGN891.

There is some warantee relief for the original owners and for subsequent owners less than 15-20 years (depends on which bulletin you read, see the below info...

To: Lennox Dealers
Subject: Revised PulseTM Key Component Replacement Procedure
Date: October 1, 2011
Effective October 1, 2011(1), Lennox will implement a revised PulseTM Key Component Replacement Procedure to replace Lennox PulseTM furnaces when key components, that are unique to the PulseTM furnace, are no longer produced by Lennox or our suppliers. This procedure applies to:
Heat Exchanger Replacement
Key Component(2) Not Available (Other than HE)
The original furnace owner or, If not the original owner, installation date must be less than twenty years
The original or subsequent owner and the installation date must be less than fifteen years
During the inspection and/or service of PulseTM furnaces, if it has been determined the heat exchanger is covered by warranty(3) and a heat exchanger is found to have failed, the offer of a replacement furnace below will be made to the homeowner. If a key component (other than the heat exchanger) is found to have failed and is no longer available, the following offer of a replacement furnace will be made to the homeowner if the furnace installation is less than fifteen years. _____________________________________________________________________________________ Model Fixed Price of New Lennox Furnace to Homeowner(4) _____________________________________________________________________________________ G14/GSR14/G21/GSR21 PulseTM Replaced with EL195E $675 or future equivalent _____________________________________________________________________________________ G21V/GSR21V PulseTM Replaced with G61MPV / EL296V $875 or future equivalent _____________________________________________________________________________________
(1) This procedure applies to PulseTM furnaces with heat exchangers covered under warranty which has a key component failure and the failed part is no longer produced.
(2) See attached list of key components.
(3) PulseTM furnaces that are no longer within the heat exchanger warranty period are not eligible for this offer.
(4) Is a fixed price to be charged to the homeowner not including taxes
Upon the submission and approval of a valid Lennox PulseTM Key Component Replacement Form, the dealer will receive a credit from Lennox. This credit represents the difference between the dealer invoice amount from Lennox for the replacement furnace and the fixed price the homeowner will pay.
This procedure does not require the return of the PulseTM furnace or key component. For a failed heat exchanger, simply perform the pressure test, submit the completed PulseTM Key Component Replacement Form, and where applicable, provide proof of original ownership. Examples of proof of ownership include but are not limited to bill of sale, copies of canceled checks, loan documents, title documents, tax records and utility bills.
PulseTM Key Components
1. Heat Exchanger
2. Ignition Control
3. Gas Valves
4. Pressure Switch
5. Purge Blower
6. VSP Control (VSP-1)
7. Fan Timer Control (FTC)
8. WG1 Watchguard Control
9. Fan & Limit Control
10. Modulation Control
11. Spark Plug
12. Spark Plug Lead
13. Flame Sensor
14. Flame Sensor Lead
15. Orifices
16. Air Diaphragm Assembly
17. Gas Diaphragm Assembly
18. Air Diaphragm Housing
19. Drip Legad)

GE front-loader WCVH6600, violent shaking, questionable repair guy...

09 February 2012 - 08:23 PM

Hello all,
I was wondering if anybody can tell me if this animal has a history of eating its rear damper struts. You see, this thing has been so violent recently that it nearly shook the pedestal to pieces. The feed fatigued off, and had to be welded back in place (on the pedestal that is), and when I started looking for the cause I noticed the rear struts seem to be more for decoration when the tub spins during a wash. The front seems to be dampened as I'd expect but the rear ones only seem to be guiding this thing into the cabinet as it gets to sway. This does this as it tries to set up for a spin, that slow, to moderate tub movement before it really gets to rolling. This thing if not perfectly balanced with then sway from one side of the cabinet to the other!

Since this beastie is under contract I thought I'd save a buck and call for the "professionals" to come and look it over, order and install the struts and we'd be good. Well I thought wrong. The guy from GE stops in and peeks at it, fiddles with the controls, and pulls error codes, then starts a spin test (no clothes) and declares he needs to get some parts. He then asks if I have a contract on this thing, and I tell him I do, (I imagine he wants to replace the rear tub spindle and bearing) he tells me he'll seem me next week and the parts should show up in the next few days.

He tells me the out of ballence issue isn't the struts "I've never seen them go bad!" and the bearing (which has a slight chatter at high speed) is all of the problem. To add insult, he tells me the E23 code is from over soaping the thing and that'll void the contract

So after the guy replaces whatever he replaces I fully expect him to tell me the struts are still not the problem, and that the wobble is "normal".

Since my background is automotive, and HVAC, I don't have lots of large appliance experience, (but definitely not a dummy!) I thought I'd call on the group for some backup, and to check my sanity.

Cheers & Beers!

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