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Member Since 23 Aug 2006
Offline Last Active Mar 22 2015 11:54 AM

Topics I've Started

Maytag refrigerator RTP 1900DAE reliability

31 July 2014 - 04:50 PM

This is a 20 year old top freezer model in a beach rental house (weekly rentals).  No ice maker.  It gets 3 months of heavy usage, 2 months of light usage and 7 months of no usage.  Have had no problems at all. I keep the coils clean.   In an effort to try to fix what MIGHT POSSIBLY go wrong I pre-emptively replaced the defrost timer and start relay in 2010.


If it ever gives out during the rental season it will be a mess.  It may take a while to get a repairman in and do I want to spend money on a 20 year old box?  Then it takes time to get a new unit bought, delivered, installed and cooling.  That is - if I can find a suitable unit locally.  Meanwhile my guests for 7 days are using a cooler I guess.  Not good.


I was considering buying a new top freezer - nothing too fancy - a good Whirlpool unit as I am riveted to Samurai's brand recommendations.  The whole idea would be to get ahead of the old fridge failing.  But given what I understand is the drop-off in quality / reliability these days versus the past - I wonder if this is a wise move?


Or are there other parts I should replace / have on hand (pre-emptively)?


Thanks for your thoughts.

Kenmore (Frigidaire) upright freezer 253 9280213 frozen drain line

27 February 2012 - 08:18 AM

The is an upright freezer. Frozen drain line again. Same problem as in July, 2011. Back then I thawed and cleaned the line. (It ran fine for 4.5+ years - then froze up 7-2011).
This time I decided to use the trick of wrapping some #14 or 12 copper wire around the calrod heater and extend it down the drain hole. But then I found there is a Whirlpool part 819043 to address this problem. It is an aluminum piece that clamps onto the calrod heater and extends down the drain hole. But it was too short for my Kenmore / Frigidaire.

So I made a similar device from some copper flashing (for roofing). The attached photo shows my copper handiwork next to the too-short aluminum Whirlpool part.

I will post again if it freezes up. Otherwise you know it is working as of today, 2-27-2012.

Also - does anyone have advice about using or ditching the existing "cap" that fits on the end of the drain line? It does allows water to pass. Not sure what its function is - maybe it prevents air from being drawn up into the freezer compartment? The attached photo shows the cap.


Power surge Frigidaire FAFW3511KWO front load washer

10 September 2011 - 06:16 AM

Had a power surge that burned up 4 point-of-use surge protectors, 5 GFI's, an electronic fan switch, and my whole house surge protector. Now my washer does not work - no power, no lights, dead.

Question is - where do I start looking? Of course there are loads of susceptible electronics in there - but where to start?

Kenmore (Frigidaire) upright freezer 253 9280213

22 July 2011 - 01:27 PM

1. Found ice forming on floor of freezer so I cleaned the drain line. Hope that solves it. Thinking of leaving the condensate cap off the drain tube as seems like this could be problematic. But it must serve some purpose. Should I just clean it and re-install? Or leave off?
2. Since I have the freezer away from the wall I thought I would clean the condenser coils but lo and behold - I guess they are sandwiched between the back of the box and the back of the (inside of the freezer itself). Thus no way to clean. Am I missing something or is this just sealed up to keep me away?


One-size-fits-most surface elements Maytag CRE7500ACW

14 May 2010 - 03:35 AM

Need to replace 2 surface elements on this circa 1995 (coil) electric stove. 

Online I see name brand (Whirlpool) and no-name "fits most brands except GE" for ~$20-25  and  elements for my stove at $35-45 - also Whirlpool.  From the photos I see no difference.

I wonder if there is really any difference in these units?? 


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