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BryanS

Member Since 22 Feb 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 12:57 PM

#308308 Freezer lights on a GE ZIS420NR

Posted by BryanS on Yesterday, 10:50 PM

There also appears to be a 2 amp fuse down by the transformers. That may be the issue.
Btw searspartsdirect.com shows that transformer as available.
Also by the looks of the parts breakdown the transformers may be behind the toekick, but I thought they were in the freezer section bottom. I'm not certain though.


#308306 Freezer lights on a GE ZIS420NR

Posted by BryanS on Yesterday, 10:44 PM

I doubt a blown bulb would cause the freezer issue. Maybe you light switches are acting up. Some light switches control fan coming on, and obviously the lights. Most built-in GE fridge problems I've ever had were mainboards, temperature sensors, and cracked drain pans. I did have on newer GE built-in that had a LED board that controlled a LED light assembly in the fresh good and all the other bulbs ran off a transformer. You are missing a letter at the end of your model.

Oh! Wait! I do see transformers!
http://www.appliance...-ap3189470.html

Part#wr62x10030 is the freezer side light transformer. Looks discontinued. May have to check other sites.


#308295 PLHS269ZDBP Water Line Freezing in Door

Posted by BryanS on Yesterday, 06:15 PM

Is this in warranty? Are the freezer temps in range? I don't know of any heater kits for Frigidaire unfortunately. I did have one in warranty that kept freezing. It took like 4 doors before we got one that wouldn't freeze. I don't know if it made any difference, but I put the last door on it and I replaced the water line with some tubing out of a Frigidaire water tank kit. I only replaced it because this one was getting jacked up from all the door changes. Wether it was the , water line, or a combination of both who knows.


#308294 Electrically Troubleshoot an Analog Pressure Switch from a WFW9500TW01

Posted by BryanS on Yesterday, 05:40 PM

Whirlpool does not give us techs that information. Who needs that right? Whirlpool is genius... NOT!

What symptoms are you having?

Haha. You got that right. I get so ticked off over have to call the techline just to get a thermistor value. Yea the tech sheet does show the value for 3 diff temps but sometimes those sheets are wrong. I told my boss how pointless I find Whirlpools website because it never has what I need except a tech sheet once in awhile. Where is all the info on how this crap works and readings for certain parts. You know they have it because magically their techline knows the answers when you call them.


#308243 WTW5640XWD Help- F7E1 Error Code on Cabrio Washer

Posted by BryanS on 25 November 2014 - 12:35 PM

I have check all of the wiring and all is good. I cleared the error code and started again with calibration and then auto test. Still came back with F7E1 code. I unpluged the run capacitor and shorted across the terminals and did not notice any spark like you normally would expect. Did this a couple of times after running through auto test mode which should of charged the capacitor. Still no charge on the capacitor. Anyone have any ideas?


Most capacitors discharge automatically on newer appliances. I've never seen one spark on anything I've worked on from appliances to hvac equipment. I still check for safety reasons. If you don't have a capacitor tester you can use an analog multimeter. When you test for ohms across the capacitor the needle should spike up and then back down. Basically it's showing that it is charging and discharging. Personally, I've never tested this way, but I've read about it. I just use a meter with a capacitor tester built in. Fluke 116


#308176 New Whirlpool WRX735SDBM Fridge runs constantly

Posted by BryanS on 24 November 2014 - 12:11 PM

Newer stuff is more efficient and will run more but they use less power than the older stuff.


#308160 Whirlpool Model # 110.24422300

Posted by BryanS on 24 November 2014 - 07:26 AM

You might need this coupling kit Part number: 285753A

Part number: 285753A

. Sorry I can't link to appliancepartspros.com because the site appears to be down right now. That is what hooks the motot to the transmission. You will need to remove the drain pump clips. Then the notor clips and screws. Unhook the wire harness and you should be able to get a good look at the coupling. They can be a bit tricky to get on the shaft. I've been using a socket with extension and a hammer to knock the new couplings flush with the shaft.




#307637 defrost diagnosis GE bottom freezer fridge PDS22MCRABB

Posted by BryanS on 15 November 2014 - 03:48 PM

No problem. I use the mainboarddiagnostic artica file for just about everything. At this point I have most of the check points memorized :) You might need to invest in some needle point leads if you don't have them already. Those files with work with for just about any GE fridge.


#307634 defrost diagnosis GE bottom freezer fridge PDS22MCRABB

Posted by BryanS on 15 November 2014 - 03:30 PM

http://appliantology...ference-bundle/

You don't need diagnostics. There are some reference charts and everything can be checked from the mainboard with a meter. I've never used diagnostics on a GE fridge.


#307522 Whirlpool WRF990SLAM00 refrigerator. saga,Did dispense ice before installati...

Posted by BryanS on 13 November 2014 - 06:40 AM

Fascia heater kit? All I can think of is checking all of your wire connectors you took off. I don't think any of the connectors in the fridge would have affected the dispenser. Maybe check the door hinge connectors too. Is the dispenser door flap opening and just no auger motor? Frozen motor maybe?
Also make sure all the connectors are in the right spot. I do recall one of those connectors capable of being hooked up to the wrong one towards the front. It's supposed be the one towards the back. It's in the instructions. I know because I hooked it to the wrong one at first.


#307508 GS6NBEXRB01 - Wpool SxS refer with mystery frost

Posted by BryanS on 12 November 2014 - 10:04 PM

What is the first picture exactly? Is the damper what's frosting up or the return vent. Whirlpool had a bulletin on some SxS for frozen returns and dampers. It had a new damper design(not this model) plus a few places to seal up such as: where the water lines come into the cabinet , where the liner meets the cabinet at the bottom of each door, wiring comes down in the dispenser area. I personally also rtv around the damper before reinstalling and pack permagum inside the return vent all the way around the square holes where the foam meets the cabinet. Also with this model the freezer control is usually a manual damper so make sure your condenser is clean because it could be taking longer to cool the fresh food side causing the freezer side to run colder which can freeze up the drain. Have you made sure the freezer isn't running to cold?


#307491 Kenmore Dishwasher 665.13299K110

Posted by BryanS on 12 November 2014 - 07:01 PM

http://appliantology...l/?fromsearch=1

Check the link on this post. The model applianceman97 was asking about looks identical in the parts breakdown. That manual may work for you.


#307317 How to Replace Door Gasket on Kitchenaid built-in Fridge KBFC42FTS02

Posted by BryanS on 09 November 2014 - 11:08 AM

Part number: ap3997167

Part number: ap3997167



It appears to me the new gaskets come with instructions. From what I can tell is your gaskets just pulls out of the channel. Pull back your gaskets and see if the door has screws. If it does, then you will have to remove some screws, and replace the gaskets a little a time so the door doesn't seperate. The other type of gasket without screws and isn't in the panel is actually foamed on. That style is a huge pain because you have to use a putty knife to loosen the foam behind the seal to get the new one on. Like I said yours like it sits in a channel and those are cake. The part link has a video. You will probably want to lay the new gaskets out flat or soak in hot water. They aren't fun to seal. I usually use heat gun to help the gasket expand so it seals. The problem with built-in models is you cannot physical see how well it is sealing. I pretty much just heat them and see how well that works. You will know if they aren't sealing because you will have a lot of moisture on the fresh food side and frozen moisture droplets in thw freezer. Why exactly are you changing these? If they aren't torn, I usually just use the heat gun to shape them, so they will seal again.




#307192 Frigidaire dishwasher FGHD2465NF1A flashing error code

Posted by BryanS on 06 November 2014 - 01:52 PM

We just ran one of these today. It needed a new control panel (touchpad). Worked fine afterwards. The other tech said he tripped the breaker then tried it, and the buttons weren't responding. So he ordered the touchpad.


#306896 GE gsl25jfpbs water spontaneously generated on freezer floor?

Posted by BryanS on 01 November 2014 - 10:01 AM

Your defrost drain is probably clogged if you are getting ice on the floor of the feeezer. You will need to remove the cover and clear out any ice in the pan. Then melt the ice out of the hole. I usually use a piece of 1/4" tubing through the drain hole to push any crap out. Sometimes you have to access the drain tube itself in the back to clear the clog. I just use a gallo gun or nitrogen bottle to blow them out when tubing won't work or there isn't room for the gallo gun or nitrogen tank fitting.





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