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Member Since 29 Mar 2012
Offline Last Active Aug 18 2014 01:22 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: AO Smith GVR-50-300 Water temperature very unstable

14 August 2014 - 09:59 PM

You shouldn't have to change the setting at all to get a constant temperature year round. Typically the gas valve has a temperature probe built in, so I would try changing that first. Nothing else comes to mind that would impact the temperatures. When are you taking these readings? Obviously, the temps will go down the more water you use until it heats up again. I will say most of the gas water heaters I worked on were manual controls. I did change maybe one with the newer type digital valve. When I get more time, I will look over my manuals, and see if I have one on this model. I wanted to give you some sort of an answer for now.


Hi, BryanS - I always take the readings throughout the day, usually across multiple days. I also try to take the temperature when the flame is off, since the temp should be near the current set point. For this current situation, the water temperatures were really low in the morning when I got up, but I didn't make any temperature measurements until later in the day. I then tested the temperatures over a 4+ hour period, constantly raising the thermostat when the flame was off but the temperature was still low. I moved the dial almost 1/4 of the full dial circumference before the temps were around 120 DegF again.


If you are in Phoenix metro especially (or anywhere else in our state for that matter), I highly recommend draining and flushing your water heater at least once per year due to the water hardness and high mineral content. You will be surprised by how much sediment (from every water company) is in the tank. Especially after 18 months.

Here's how:

Hook up a garden hose to the drain near the bottom. Run hose out to driveway.
Open drain valve.
Examine drain water. You will see ALOT of very fine tan sediment.
Let it flush until sediment clears. Close drain valve.

This sediment build up will affect the holding tank's thermal conductance properties, which in turn affects the thermostat's performance.

Also due to the nature of the typical gas water heater, the temperature in certain situations may vary by up to 30 degrees F higher or lower at the bathtub, shower, sink, etc. A flakey, really out of spec thermostat will allow more variation.

This model should have a draft test port at the top of the water heater. This could affect the temp swings. Check the manual on how to perform this test if you still have it. Check your flame too. A properly operating burner should produce a soft blue flame. Blue tips with yellow inner cones are satisfactory. Anything else is bad. Also verify nothing is obstructing the rooftop flue pipe vent cap.

Unfortunately, AO Smith does not rate very good when in comes to water heaters imo. If after completing the above, and you still have issues, you will probably need a new thermostat and/or manifold assembly. Most likely thermostat. Check which one you have, Robert Shaw or WhiteRogers.

Good luck.


Hi, beam current - I drained my tank about 6 months ago, and there was absolutely no sediment in the tank (I was pleasantly surprised!).

I'll try draining again in the next few days. I'll also get on the roof to see if the vent cap is blocked. I will also do a draft test this weekend.


I noticed this problem immediately with this WH. I had a similar problem with my previous WH, too - but not as frequent. I was hoping that the more modern tank/thernostat/thermopile designs would have helped, but it doesn't look like it now. Maybe something common - like a blocked vent cap - is causing this issue.

In Topic: GE-based Reverse Osmosis System - Tank doesn't fill

24 December 2013 - 12:58 PM

If the check valve isn't original equipment then take it out. I don't know what size tank you have but it can take many hours to fill. The less water in the tank the lower the pressure.


@Santa - It's been a few years, but I think that a check valve might have been installed originally. The last time that replaced the filters a few years back, I believe that it fell out - and I had no idea where it came from. At the time, I didn't have the same diagram that I attached to this posting - which now shows where a check valve is inserted.


You need to have your tank to atmospheric pressure (14.7 psi) - drain the tank completely, then depress valve for a minute, the static pressure in the room will fill the area between the bladder and tank, then when the tank (bladder) is full - the atmospheric pressure will act as a cushion to dispense water.   The unit will take up to 24 hours to fill the tank, so a gallon or so will be available. If you require more than this, fill a container and refrigerate and repeat process.  while the unit is processing, you will hear a slow dribble of water down the drain


As a rule, the check valve is built into the membrane housing - be certain that the membrane is installed in the right direction


@kdog - I drained my tank (it looks like it is about 2-3 gallons), and then found an accurate low pressure gauge (1-20 psi) at the auto store. I pressurized the tank bladder to 5 psi when the tank was empty.

I'm 99.9% sure that I have the RO membrane installed in the right direction - it seems like there was only one logical way to put it in the housing.


Your comment on the check valve being built into the membrane housing makes a lot of sense, and makes me wonder if I have 2 check valves in the loop now. If I take the system apart, will I be able to see if a check valve is in the housing?


While it seems like the system is working pretty much OK with the (possibly extra) check valve installed after the RO filter, I still am not sure that the system is working the way it is supposed to. This is the first RO system I have owned.


I know that there is a huge difference in water flow rate if I remove the check valve that I inserted. My RO membrane is a 24 gallon-per-day unit. With the tank empty and the "new" check valve installed, the flow rate from the RO is not much above a trickle - pretty much what I would see if I barely turned on a normal faucet and see a stream. If I remove the "new" check valve and the tank is empty, the flow rate pretty steady at about 75% of what I would see with RO the tank full. 


The first (slow trickle) flow rate might actually be closer to a gallon per hour, though. I just don't have enough experience to know if what I have now is the proper operation.





In Topic: GE-based Reverse Osmosis System - Tank doesn't fill

23 December 2013 - 07:33 PM

Hi, guys - I'm still working on this. I don't know if it is operating yet.


I re-pressurized my RO tank bladder to 5 PSI. I think it was pretty much empty.


One question ... When I first connect my RO supply lines, and the RO tank is totally empty, will I only see a little dribble from the RO faucet when it is first turned on? I see almost nothing coming from the RO faucet ever since I put a check valve into the system (there wasn't a check valve in the system the last few years).


If I remove the check valve, I see a weak, but more reasonable stream.



In Topic: JT912SK4SS Oven - Loud Buzzing Fan Noise

20 October 2013 - 05:12 PM

Thanks for the help, guys!


The failure turned out to be what I expected, sort of.


The buzzing sounded like the fan (#32) was hitting the wire mesh fan protector (#49). When I pulled out the oven, I expected to see that the mesh came loose, and was hitting the fan.


That isn't what I saw, though,


Instead, the fan blade and shaft are actually very movable, and can slide from the front to the back with only a little pressure. What had happened (apparently) is that we have used the oven enough that the pressure from moving the cooling air had slowly moved the blade/shaft towards the back of the oven, and started hitting the wire mesh.


Pushing the shaft/blade forward fixed the problem.


Why is the shaft/blade movable at all? I would think it should be a fixed position. It seems like everyone would face this problem eventually.


Or, do I have some sort of installation problem where the oven cavity is too airtight, causesing the blade to be pulled back because it is straining to push too little air through the front grills?

In Topic: JT912SK4SS Oven - Loud Buzzing Fan Noise

16 October 2013 - 02:42 AM

Thanks, RegUS_PatOff!


By "cooling fan stall", do you mean that the F9 code is related to the fan? We have been seeing the F9 code for years, and the cooling fan seems to have been working properly all that time. I was thinking the F9 code was probably due to a failure in the control board. The oven was always clean after a cleaning cycle, and everything else seemed OK, so I just ignored it. Had the same F9 code error after a cleaning cycle on my previous GE oven, too. I figured it to be a VERY common failure mode.



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