Thanks everyone. Worked out great! Everybody should have an oven like this! No electrical power, no sensors or circuit boards, just a gas line and everything is manually operated. Talk about the KISS concept! (Keep It Simple Stupid)
Yes, absolutely meter out your cycling thermostat. Should get continuity on the 2 terminals that are far apart from each other and 6800 to 7000 ohms on the two terminals that are close to each other. Make sure to pull the wires off the terminals before doing this test.
If that checks okay, the problem is in your exhaust system. The ducts inside the dryer are blocked with lint, or the vent running from the back of the dryer to the wall is crushed, or duct inside your wall is clogged somewhere or could even be blocked at the exit point (flapper stuck closed, for example).
If it's not this stuff look at the dryer's blower wheel. It could have a lot of lint in the blades that prevent it from picking up air. Make sure it is spinning with a lot of force when you turn on the dryer.
(Dear Samurai, thank you for designing this site with the "autosave" feature. I had typed all this and then my computer totally screwed me and froze! I had to restart it before clicking Post!)
My client had multiple fires going on inside his dryer because of this stuff. It was so bad he even melted his wire harness. Make sure you open up your dryer and clean in there too because you're going to have a ton of lint around your burner. If your dryer is a gas-operated one the danger is that much more.
My washer appears to drain during the rinse cycle, not spin, from watching it function normally. I can't turn the dial to spin and get it to drain, you hear it start to try, some water go down the drain, maybe a cup or two, and then everything stops.
I'm trying to understand this. It sounds like there is excessive strain on the motor coming from binding somewhere. Is there a sock or something caught in between the tubs? If your clutch is really strong, then something stuck between the tubs could break your coupler.
I have had tons of these direct-drive washers do this because of the flooring in the home.
1. Is this machine upstairs where the base of the floor is plywood?
2. Is this machine in a mobile home (that is elevated with a crawl space underneath) and the the base of the floor is plywood?
These machines are relatively lightweight for the amount of power they have. If they are not directly on concrete they can shake the room.
If you answered "yes" to either question above, try cutting a square from a 3/4" thick plywood sheet. Make this square large enough for the washer to sit on. This should help beef up the foundation these washers need. Once again, what they really want is solid concrete (out in the garage, for example).
Update: Yes Durham you nailed it at the switch inside the actuator pad! Went over there today and there was power to the board and lights on the panel. However, after taking it all apart, I found that switch and wiring to be badly corroded at the two connections. One wire broke easily at its connection and the color of the corrosion was blue.
I cleaned it all out and recrafted the connections. I reassembled all components and the water and ice dispensed when activated. However, the plastic housing that holds all the components had apparently got hot and melted at some point in the past. The ice dispenser door is too resistant to opening under just the weight of the ice. The housing is deformed.
Also, the wedge that activates the switch inside the actuator doesn't always return on its own; this causes the water or ice to continue to run unless you play with the actuator pad for a bit. This problem has been persistant for a while she said.
Thank you for directing me to the service manual at the pot luck supper. Sorry I didn't get back right away to this thread here.
Everything worked out fine. It was the thermostat again. I think the lady had been cranking on it or perhaps turned it the wrong way or something because just by wiggling the shaft I could get continuity in the OFF position. It was basically broken. But, I couldn't prove that she broke it so we warrantied it. At least it didn't cost me anything to replace it, but I was still working for free and time has a monetary value in my opinion.
Just wanted to say thanks to RegUS_PatOff & dimitri77565for their advice on a recent service call I did. Everything went smoothly and the diagnosis was quick and easy because of them.
I got a call for a Frigidaire gas range (freestanding) with a list of complaints:
1. Burners no longer sparking
2. Interior light no longer coming on when door is opened
3. Clock display flickering when door is opened
4. Error codes present
5. Oven no longer bakes
It turns out my client actually installed a new board twice with no resolve. Then he had a tech come out who diagnosed (you guessed it!) a bad board. Without you guys I may have done the same thing. Afterall, he was still getting 120 volts at the outlet.
Reg posted the tech manual quickly, but told me to check if the range had been at another location and recently moved to this one. He told me to check for electrical work that may have been done to the house.
Dimitri just flat-out told me it was the power supply.
Armed with this knowledge I headed out to take on this trouble maker. When I arrived I ran an extension cord to the range from another room. The goal here was to see if the appliance would run on a totally different breaker. And guess what? It did.
Yup, no problem with this range at all. They had a failing breaker in the box outside. He called me a "genius." He just couldn't believe that, after all his time and frustration (money too), the problem was so simple.
Responded to client's complaint of Fresh Food compartment warming up. Freezer is working fine.
Fresh Food back wall temp by infrared gun: 55F
Freezer back wall temp by infrared gun: 10F
According to display, however, FF compartment is 34F and Freezer is -4F
Tried to access FF evaporator, however there was a solid block of ice on each side of it holding the panel that covers it in place. Used a hair dryer for quite some time to free it up, but no use. I was careful not to warp the plastic.
Tonight, the fridge will remain unplugged and doors open in order to thaw. I'll be back tomorrow or the next day. I put in the service manual request tonight.
Customer mentioned that recently they were having electrical problems in the house. According to her, the house breaker finally sparked and burned and they went from having electrical problems to having no electricity at all. After having the issue repaired the fridge got quirky.
I asked her if the display ever got weird. She said the display is fine except once in a while the noted temps will go up and then come back down on their own.
Back lower cover is completely missing. So the condenser and compressor are totally exposed.
Just finished reading the Cheesedorks qualifications. Samurai, you're not even the slightest bit wrong. Not cynical; just observant.
And in regard to them grouping me in the same category as government service providers, seriously, there are plenty of communist countries in the world. They need to move to one of them and quit destroying my free country.
When I'm out in the public I am always having to face the reality that I am one of just a handful of Americans who is not afraid of Freedom.
I'll defend the concept of "Free-market capitalism" 'til the day I die.
Or, should I say, the RIGHT to "Free-Market Capitalism." Thank you.