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Vets Appliance

Member Since 05 Jun 2012
Offline Last Active Oct 17 2014 09:23 AM

#291428 Fisher paykal dish drawer dd603. Water seeping into opposite drawer

Posted by Vets Appliance on 22 April 2014 - 12:39 PM

Wait... a rep told you to install the connector vertically? Are you serious??


Not no but hell no. I've been out on over 50 warranty calls that were due to messed up drain installs. Most common issues were:

  • Both no high loop and no air gap (plastic double hose bracket tossed aside because no one knew what it was for).
  • Y connectors hacked with a utility knife (more common than you'd believe).
  • Vertically installed Y connectors with the double ends facing down (Can you say "G-R-A-V-I-T-Y"?)

By the way, check valves work great under pressure but often seep when in a (very gentle, no pressure) gravity feed situation because the water isn't really pushing on the rubber flapper. Without pressure pushing on the flapper it doesn't seal very well and the water can then gently, slowly, seep through.

#290850 GE Fridge Model GSS25LGMB Noise

Posted by Vets Appliance on 15 April 2014 - 08:51 AM

1) Frost buildup in the evaporator coils. Standby to standby for possible defrost issues.


2) RPM feedback circuit issues. *If* this is the case then it's often the 10942 board but potentially could be the DC evaporator fan motor.


My money is on frost... especially if the speed of the fan goes up and down and it howls like something out of Hound of the Baskervilles.

#290777 refrigerator GI5SVAXVL00 Ice maker works, ice and water dispensers do not

Posted by Vets Appliance on 14 April 2014 - 08:41 AM

Color me dimwitted here but please explain to me as if I were 5 years old... I need to know exactly what you mean by "they work in service mode":


  • Are you inputting a code that causes them trigger instead of using a glass in the dispenser?
  • Are you putting it in service mode and then shoving a glass in the dispenser like you would normally?
  • Do all functions fail normally but work in service mode? Water, cubed and crushed and door flapper?

#290774 Kitchenaid KUDE70FXSS5 Won't Run

Posted by Vets Appliance on 14 April 2014 - 08:30 AM

Diagnostic tactic based on years of working on other dishwashers:


Do yourself a favor. Close the unit and power it up so that the light is on, then do nothing. Don't start it, just wait. If the light goes out after that same minute or so then most likely the issue is either the door latch isn't closing correctly or the controller isn't receiving the signal to start... but either way the why it's happening is still not determined yet.


The key here is to see if the unit behaves exactly the same way regardless of if you hit the start button or not.

#290773 Advice? KA Double Oven / Nuker On Top / Microwave Door From *#%)!(!

Posted by Vets Appliance on 14 April 2014 - 08:17 AM



(Spannerwrench: The rods were done by someone else, several years ago. Now you have me wondering....)


ThirstyTech: Right idea, wrong fuse. They're in series with the door & light so you knew what part of the circuit, it was just 50/50 on which fuse.


The fuse brought her back to life. It's located deep back right of the nuker. It was a 2 person job as I needed the gf to hold the nuker with it hanging 3/4 out of the cavity. At least we didn't have to pull the entire double oven.


ThirstyTech: Where do I send the beer $$?? That manual saved my ever loving a**. Seriously. I would never have known where each part I needed was and so would have pulled the entire oven in an Easter Egg Hunt.


The rough part:


The new frame made the door fit better, but not perfect. Knocking on the right side of the door firmly still caused the left interlock to let go but at least it was closing when the door was shut normally. This was very frustrating as the torsion springs had already been replaced by someone else and, at the time, I wasn't aware of Spannerwrench's point about there being different springs.


So based on what I knew at the time I did what any self respecting Navy miracle worker would do.


I used thick foil sheet tape to add just 1/2 millimeter to the micro switch cams. Barely anything but the switch was right on the cusp of opening so barely anything is just what the doc ordered.


Problem solved.


Customer very happy. He's a retired engineer who watched every move and understood my logic at every step of the way... and he's happy with me enough that he's asked me to come back to look at 2 more appliances today. :wink:


But now I'm going to have nightmares about colored doors vs. stainless ones.


P.S.: I ordered a mw leakage detector via Amazon and it's supposed to be delivered today. I should have it in time to run a test on the door later.

#290621 Advice? KA Double Oven / Nuker On Top / Microwave Door From *#%)!(!

Posted by Vets Appliance on 11 April 2014 - 02:56 PM

I got delayed but used the time well. After triple checking the schematic in that manual (thanks Thirstytech!) I am 99.999% positive that one of those fuses blew when I consider the symptoms... including the fact that the halogen cavity light went out immediately after the breaker blew.


So thanks to you too PDuff!


Hopefully this will end this nightmare but the interlock door spring latches that pull the door closed are still too weak IMHO... but I wonder if they're as strong as they're designed to be. I wonder if KA needs to beef them up in order to make up for the weakened torsion springs, since they work in cooperation to close the door.

#290394 Advice? KA Double Oven / Nuker On Top / Microwave Door From *#%)!(!

Posted by Vets Appliance on 09 April 2014 - 03:08 PM

As a matter of fact, YES.


That's how the one screw ended up being loose. I verified that with the customer. Apparently the other tech didn't remove the vent when dealing with the frame mounting screw on the lower left and that's how it ended up being loose.


Re-calibrated? Yea... I thought the door seemed weaker than I remembered another one being. Apparently I used springs that were not re-calibrated on a job about a year ago because they were strong as hell and really pulled the door shut.


This one isn't anywhere near as firm but since the springs had been replaced recently I dismissed it as a figment of my imagination.


Sigh... heading out here in about fifteen minutes. Any other info would be appreciated, thanks.



#290386 12784415 Jazz Board Issue, I think

Posted by Vets Appliance on 09 April 2014 - 02:04 PM

Replacing that thing is an adventure in itself. There are two catches that have to be released with a screwdriver and I swear that every time I do it I'm sure that the plastic is sure to break. That's because you often have to push hard... too hard for my taste.


Take a good look at the first 90 seconds of this video before you even try to replace the board.


The video was made by some beer swilling nutcase but he seems to have at least something of a clue when it comes to replacing the jazz board... and it was kind of nice that he made this video for all of us.




Posted by Vets Appliance on 14 February 2014 - 07:44 AM

And this is why we have the archives...


Same model, same issue. Try to start it and

  • Door Locks
  • Relays Click
  • Display changes from Normal & many opetions to No Spin with all options dark
  • Unit powers down
  • Checking Error Codes shows an E23


I had never seen a FL washer react to a drain issue by powering down when trying to start so I was figuring I had an issue with the main board. I did, however, also have the E23 code so I checked the drain pump and it was shot. 120 supplied from the board to the pump was perfect.


But the idea that a bad drain pump wouldn't result in an error code and beeping was a little odd... and the idea that it would result in the display changing from Normal to No Spin and then powering down had my head spinning.


Looks as if I may be able to just do the pump and return the board. Fingers crossed!

#261170 The Scherlock Holmes Mystery of GE refrigerators... Evap Fan Fun Pt.2

Posted by Vets Appliance on 15 July 2013 - 07:08 PM



Oh man now smart assed remarks I made months ago are going to come back to haunt me!

#261098 Fisher Paykel GWL11 -- New Diverter Pump Not Operating

Posted by Vets Appliance on 14 July 2013 - 08:19 PM

Try this:


Unplug the diverter connections at the valve and test for 115 across the wires with the diverter out of the circuit.


You say the valve coils check out for resistance, what did you get? 1.2k to 3.6k or something in that ballpark or did you get a lot less?


As a former F&P warranty tech I can't advise strongly enough that you pull the hoses and triple check that a bobby pin wasn't hiding in a hose and then slip down into there after you installed the new valve. It never takes much to jam them... a quarter, bobby pin or safety pin is all it takes and if one was still in the hoses when you swapped valves.... yea.


Also, those F&P's are almost always worth fixing. Odd thing is that bad main bearings and main lip seal is one of the cheapest fixes in the whole machine (under $20 for parts). No transmission, clutch or brake to go bad either.


They're an odd design and have their weak points, but they have strong points no one else can match too.

#261041 Today's appliance engineers should be forced to work on the stuff they de...

Posted by Vets Appliance on 14 July 2013 - 10:41 AM

We can't change the over engineering but we can do something about serviceability issues. It's actually pretty easy.


Every single time you see a factory rep at training or when they come into your shop for business remind them of this:


1) We are by far the people customers are asking "What brand should I buy?" after we tell them their machine is dead.

2) If your engineer makes my life difficult, I tell them to stay away from you.

3) If the number one person people ask is saying to avoid your brand, what happens to your sales?


Now design the damned thing so I can get into it.


If they keep hearing the same story wherever they go, they should start getting the message.

#259957 The Scherlock Holmes Mystery of GE refrigerators... Evap Fan Fun Pt.2

Posted by Vets Appliance on 04 July 2013 - 09:39 AM

Considering the cost of the fridge this is doable.


I knew we were all pretty good but now I bow to the fermented one with beer suds in the beard. Anyone who can get GE schematics must be enlightened in the way of the Tao. ;)

#259898 Jenn-Air Stove Top burner not igniting when gas is turned on

Posted by Vets Appliance on 03 July 2013 - 06:19 PM

Reg said "could", as in might be... as I typed this his reply about testing just came in above.


Do what the nice Reg man says, be sure that you have found the real cause of the issue and only then spend money on parts.


Monkeys toss in part after part and hope it gets fixed. Technicians diagnose properly and use one part; the right one. :)

#259895 GE Refrigerator not defrosting even with new parts

Posted by Vets Appliance on 03 July 2013 - 06:05 PM

Silly question but the majority of issues I've run into with that design are from ice build up interfering with the fan but the ice was actually because the drain system in that design is.... to put it nicely... LOUSY.


Are you sure that the ice that is impeding your fan is due to a defrost failure or might it be due to defrost melt water not draining properly?


I absolutely HATE that horizontal evap design.

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