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Vets Appliance

Member Since 05 Jun 2012
Offline Last Active Oct 17 2014 09:23 AM

Topics I've Started

Advice? KA Double Oven / Nuker On Top / Microwave Door From *#%)!(!

09 April 2014 - 02:40 PM

Preliminary info:




Relevant Diagram and Parts List:



Door Frame is designated as #2 in the diagram.


Part # for the door is 8303356



The Sad Story So Far:


So I get this call... it's a dame. It's always a dame. Oh wait, that's Philip Marlow... wrong sad story.


So I get this call...


It's a KA double oven, the top oven is a nuker. It's the one with that door designed by Mickey Mouse, the one that is held on by only two screws and a couple hooks at the bottom. It's the one that falls on the floor and shatters the glass if you pull the two door handle screws without holding the door tighter than you'd hang on to a couple dozen C notes. Yea, that one. (It's also the one that eats torsion springs, those two torsion springs that form an 'X' underneath the door glass... Part designation #16 in the diagram.)


So the call is that the nuker won't heat but the panel buzzes. I prove that it's the relay in the EOC and order an EOC. The I replace said EOC.


The customer also pointed out that the door looked uneven so I went in, found a loose screw and tightened it. Big Mistake...


So I slap Humpty Dumpty back together and fire it up... now she won't even try to heat. No relay action, nothing.


I track this down to the fact that the door is closing in a way that isn't closing the left side interlock, causing the unit to not send 120 to the HV transformer. I prove this by leaning on the left side of the door in a way that "rocks" the door; the nuker fires right up and heats.


Customer is suitably impressed.


So I adjust the door so that it closes the left side interlock. Now the right side won't close. Are you (()$&#% kidding me?


I am suitably unimpressed.


So I dig into the door and find that the issue appears to be that the door frame plastic (designated #2) is cracked on the bottom on either side, in a way that I've seen many times before. I superglue said cracks, no luck.


I look closely and notice that the door is curved along the bottom so that the middle of the bow pushes into the microwave and the ends bow out away. I conclude that this is why the door rocks in a way that only allows the left or right side interlock to be depressed at any given moment. So I order the new door frame and give the customer and discount on the labor for the inconvenience.


I picked up the new frame about an hour ago and you know what? It has an even more pronounced bow in the middle of the lower part of the frame.


Are you (()$&#% kidding me?


I am suitably unimpressed.


This door is quickly racing towards the dumbass design award for 2014.


Past winners of said award include:


  • The Whirlpool front load washer design that put the tech sheet behind a front kick panel ... that was held on with screws placed below the level of the drain pan ... with a dryer on top as if it were a cherry on a sundae. To get to the tech sheet you had to uninstall the dryer.
  • The F&P 301 double oven that had the worlds best comuterized diagnostic that was so extensive it required a 30 page manual. Said manual was in a plastic pouch that was taped to the back of the wall oven... which weighed 360 pounds and had installation instructions insisting that 3 men were required to get it in or out of the wall in order to reach the tech sheet "book".


Seriously though, has anyone else noticed serious alignment issues with this door, including the bowing and cracking at those weak points?


Thanks for any ideas. I have to head out there in about half an hour... not that I expect any replies that fast but I guy can dream, can't he?



Electrolux Fridge No Start & Displays "OP / OP" after replacing touchpad an...

21 August 2013 - 07:14 PM

The parts involved with this one were on back order for 3 weeks so this is a popular puppy.... some of you guys have to have run into this interface on one of Electrolux's fridges somewhere. What I really want to know is if anyone has faced this before and, if so, are there any tricks / caveats / etc. that I need to be aware of.


It's a bit long but I tried to write it in an entertaining style. I hope you enjoy.








Electrolux M# EW26SS65GS0 Fridge


Original complaint: Solved


Secondary Complaint: PF alarm won't reset, parts of interface touchpad unresponsive.


Ordered interface:



Waited 3 weeks for backorder to arrive while customer called every single day because she was going insane. The loud beeping could be heard in every room in the house, including the bedroom... at 2AM... and 3AM... and 4AM... etc...


Part arrives, it's a kit consisting of a new interface AND new main board. They must be replaced as a set. What was to be 2 screws and 3 minute job turns into a pain the the a** because the main board is mounted under, yes under, the fridge. I will gladly pay $500 for 5 minutes in a locked closet with the engineer who thought THAT was a good idea. But I digress...


So I get it done, plug it in and it goes beeep. I hit the reset and it goes quiet and all is well in Mudville.


Three seconds later both displays change to OP / OP and the unit refuses to start, AT ALL. :wacko:


Oh yea....... we is havin funs now.


There is a number to call on the instructions if you have any issues or suggestions. I call it. The computer asks for an authorized contractor ID number. I hit 0 for operator, it says go find my number and hangs up on me. I call back, it hangs up on me again.


I begin to contemplate a road trip to Electrolux land to commit acts that would result in a lengthy prison term. :samurai:


I get customer service on the phone and the girl tries her best. She defines OP as open thermistors, both Fridge and Freezer. Apparently the wiring has an open. I quadruple check it all, looks great, still no joy.


So I do the test of last resort... I put the old part back in.


Vrrrrrooooommmm!!!!!! She runs!


Beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep................. Beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep.................


Just kill me now... please...


Electrosux... lux, whatever... expressed a new set of boards since there is clearly nothing wrong with the thermistors or the wiring and the new boards have to be faulty. I picked up the new ones today and will be putting them in tomorrow. If anyone has any tips or warnings about this beast, I'd appreciate any heads up.



The Scherlock Holmes Mystery of GE refrigerators... Evap Fan Fun Pt.2

03 July 2013 - 09:28 AM

Hi again all, sorry I've been AWOL. Life gets like that for me at times but I'll try to check in more often.


I've got a real nice lady with a scratch and dent Adora fridge, M# DSHS5PGXAESS. If you didn't groan after reading that then you should know that S&D means they took the tech sheet out of the unit before selling it as scratch and dent... yea, now you can groan. On the bright side, for some odd reason they didn't scrape the model number stickers the way they're supposed to. Anywho...


What I've got is both sides are warming about 8-10 degrees over a few days. Normally I'd be thinking sealed system but in this case the customer said that just before the warming started the evap fan motor began a pattern of 4 seconds on, 4 seconds off, 4 seconds on, etc.


I've verified that... the noise is really annoying too. The fan sounds normal but the way it comes on and goes off gets under your skin in a way that you can't ignore no matter how you try. No wonder she called.


There's no frost on the back wall of the freezer and the fan actually started running constantly after I'd had the freezer door open for a while. The fan then went back to on/off/on/off when the freezer got down to about 12-13 degrees F.


1) Anyone familiar with the evap fan mot 4sec on 4 sec off pattern here? What was your experience?

2) At this point I don't feel it's appropriate to settle on any diagnosis until I can get a thermistor check. Does anyone know how to run the GE diag's from the dispenser panel on these things? (I can do it from the digital temp panel on a GSS/PSS but I've never had to do it from the dispenser controls on this thing.)



I know it sounds like a sealed system issue but the fact is that the system and fan are doing what the main board is telling them to do and I'm not convinced that the evaporator is too warm. I'm actually thinking that the airflow is the issue and it's clearly caused by the wonky fan action... which has me thinking thermistor or board.


I have my pride but I'm not going to tell her to junk a $1500 fridge that might only need a thermistor until I'm sure of the diagnosis... worst case scenario is that I have to tell her to call for GE service because they're the only ones who can get the tech sheet. If I absolutely have to do that then I'll hate it, but I will.


But you wonderful, nice, easily flattered people can save me all this pain if you happen to know where I can get instructions for the DSHS style diagnostics and a tech sheet for this monster :c)






Advertising and business idea exchange forum for servicers?

14 March 2013 - 07:49 PM

One thing I'd love to see is a place where we can discuss what advertising is working, not working, etc.


Ad words, stickers, direct mail, newspapers, standing on a street corner in a monkey suit with a sign... whatever.


Let's face it. There just aren't any ad programs tailored to our needs and we often have to learn the hard way. If we can save each other some headaches then maybe we should.

Vet's Appliance Serving Greater Cleveland

14 March 2013 - 07:06 PM

Vet's stands for Veteran's, as the owner is an ex-Navy electronics technician.


We serve the Greater Cleveland area and handle repairs on most major brands. We have a former Fisher & Paykel warranty technician on staff and can also handle your DCS needs.


Feel free to check out my posts and replies for great examples of wonderful (cough-cough) personality and style!


Vet's Appliance

(216) 544-2945


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