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Member Since 06 Sep 2012
Offline Last Active Mar 25 2015 09:49 AM

#311580 Electrolux M # EIDW6105GS1 Turbidity light not washing

Posted by aasnowskate on 20 January 2015 - 04:05 PM

Ok, well I guess nobody wanted to chime in on this one.  Since the turbidity light was on at the lower board, I replaced it.  After replacing it, everything worked and all the controls were able to operate fine.  I just wanted to post this so that in the future someone might be able to find this useful.  It is pretty neat that the light comes on at the lower board to tell you what is wrong.

Hopefully this helps someone in the future. 

#304748 GE SxS PSC25PSSCSS ice maker causing large ice formations

Posted by aasnowskate on 03 October 2014 - 02:33 PM

Sorry for the late reply, but I got it all fixed up.  It turned out to be a shorted defrost thermostat.  This also caused the heater to melt the plastic housing on either end of the glass tube. It still had continuity through the heater after I removed it.  However, it got so hot that I could not even remove the wires from the heater without cutting them off.  Every time it was going into defrost, the heater was staying on all the time.  The thermostat was never opening up to stop the defrost causing ice to melt and drip down and then freez causing the icicles in the freezer. 

I went ahead and replaced the thermistor while I was in there since it is such an inexpensive part.  It has been over a week now and everything is back to normal and good ice production. 

The people do not keep that much in their freezer, so there was no complaint of defrosted food.  I just assumed water leaking from the ice maker.  Lesson learned. 

Thanks for all the help. 

#269835 Samsung Washer WF206BNWXAA not spinning or pumping all water out.

Posted by aasnowskate on 01 October 2013 - 02:14 PM

I went back out to the customer's house today and there was water still in the tub from the last wash.  I took the back panel off and hooked the pump up with a patch cord and ran it.  The water was running out really slowly, but steadily.  After about 5 minutes, the tub was compeletly drained.  I took the pump out, ran it with nothing attached to it and it was fine.  Took off the hose coming from the tub to the pump and it was clean.  I spun the tub and there was nothing in it to be restricting the water flow to the pump. 

Then I decided to inspect the drain hose which is suspended for the high loop and then connected to another hose using two worm gear clamps with a male fitting in the hoses so it can reach the sump pump in the basement.  I took the clamps loose and pulled the male fitting out and there was a dime.  The male fitting in there was just a tiny bit smaller than the diameter of the dime. 

I cleaned all that up and put it all back together,  filled the tub with water and it pumped water out like a firehose.  I put some towles in and put it into spin only and it worked great. 

Moral of the story is to check everything before drawing a conclusion.

Lesson learned... Hopefully.

#250513 Frigidaire Gallery Refrigerator Ice Makers don't work

Posted by aasnowskate on 20 March 2013 - 08:30 AM

Did you check the seal of the freezer door?  That bottom mount freezer door can be reinstalled wrong if they had to remove it to bring it into the house.  If if is not sealing properly, the freezer will be loosing cold air and the sensors will detect that it is not cold enough. If it is not cold enough, it will not make ice.  The evaporator in the upper ice maker is all part of the system that is in the freezer.  There is not two compressors.  On the display, the warmest that the freezer will go is 6 or 7 degrees.  If you are getting 10 to 12, it may not be cold enough.  That upper ice maker has many problems.  They have discontinued that ice maker.    You can put the ice maker into a diognostics mode to see exactly what is wrong with it.  I don't have the service manual uploaded, but I have it in paper form.  Maybe someone out there has it to be downloaded?

#249540 Frigidaire oven thermostat

Posted by aasnowskate on 05 March 2013 - 10:16 AM

I recently went out on a call to fix a Frigidaire double oven that would not bake. M# FPET3085KF.  I figured it was the bake element. There were no error codes, the broil element worked. Took the oven all apart to check the bake element, which can be checked from the front only to find out the bake element had continuity through it.  I did not have current going to the element.  Everything on the board and key pad checked out fine, but did not have a reading through the bake element from the board.  I then pulled the double oven out of the wall to find out the resetable thermostat had popped.  There is a red button on the thermostat that needs pushed back in.  The customer had recently put the unit into self clean.  I guess being a built in unit caused the heat to get too high and popped that thermostat. 

This can be checked from the board.

The bad thing is: the only way to reset this thermostat is to pull the oven out of the wall and take the back off to get to the thermostat.

I am posting this to let others know to check this before ordering a very expensive bake element. 

I hope this helps some others.

#243283 Sears 110.28892790 Washer Not Spinning - Jackhammer Sound

Posted by aasnowskate on 29 November 2012 - 08:28 AM

Have you checked the coupling? Part # 285753A. That motor is direct drive, not belt driven. Those couplings break. It is an easy fix. You only need a few tools. It still pumps when the coupling is broken, which makes it nice because you don't have a tub full of water.

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