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Member Since 06 Sep 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 08:26 AM

Topics I've Started

Electrolux M # EIDW6105GS1 Turbidity light not washing

13 January 2015 - 01:12 PM

I went on a call for an Electrolux Dishwasher M # EIDW6105GS1  that has a no wash problem. The dishwasher will not fill, pump or wash.  The Turbidity light on the main board behind the kick plate is on.  The unit will not allow me to put it into any cycle other than the auto cycle and even then, nothing happens when start is pushed and the door is closed.  I took the turbidity sensor out and cleaned it and reinstalled it, still nothing and the light on the board is still on.  The water valve works when 120 V is applied as well as the pump motor. 

The touch pad would not let me put it into the diagnostics mode.  All the lights seem to work on the touch pad though.

Anybody ever come across this problem? 

I feel as though it is the main board causing the problem, but I wanted to see if anyone has come across this before.


GE SxS PSC25PSSCSS ice maker causing large ice formations

23 September 2014 - 06:34 PM

I recently went on a call that a GE SxS PSC25PSSCSS was getting huge icicles  or large ice formations coming down from ice maker.  I put a new water valve on and a few days later, it was the same thing. So, I went back and noticed that the ice maker was not screwed in properly and it was leaning to the front.  This ice maker sits left to right, not front to rear.  It was leaning toward the front, so I assumed that it was overflowing when it filled, causing the large ice formations.

This fixed the problem for about a month. I just got a call from the customer today saying they went away for a week and when they came back, there were the large ice formations again in the freezer.  They said there was no problem before they went away.  

Does anyone know how to cycle this ice maker?  The service data is not on the unit.  

The temp in the freezer is fine.  There are no gaps in the gasket.  

Before I was there to change the water valve, they had shut off the water and there was no ice formations with the water off.  This is why I replaced the water valve.  

I'm thinking it may need a new ice maker.

Any suggestions to this problem would be great.


Kenmore SxS 10656544400 Freezer cold, Ref side not cold

07 August 2014 - 02:46 PM


This topic has been started before, but never answered properly.  At least not that I could find.

I went out on a Kenmore SxS M# 10656544400.  The freezer is cooling properly.  The Ref side was not.  The evap fan is blowing properly, the defrost system is working properly, the frost line on the evaporator is great.  As in the other threads, the problem is when the freezer door is open, the air from freezer to refrigerator side is blowing cold and strong.  When the freezer door is closed, it is very minimal to none. There was a bit of ice in the return line from refrigerator (the hole down by the crisper) to the freezer side. I removed all ice and ran a plastic hose up through there to see if if was all clear and it was.

Right now I have the damper out and laying on the top shelf.  It was in the open position, but I left it out to see if that would help. The diagnostics says everything is fine.

With the damper out, there is a bit more air flow, but not near what it is when the freezer door is open.

Does anyone have a good answer to this problem that seems to have happened before?


GE GTS22KCMBRBB not cooling properly

12 December 2013 - 05:32 PM

I went out to look at a GE freezer on top ref.  M# GTS22KCMBRBB.  Customer said it was not cooling properly.  When I got there the Ref was about 41 degrees.

 I first checked the mother board on the back and everything seemed fine.  The evap seemed to be frosting up nicely.  I then started to watch the evap fan and it was really not blowing at a good stable speed.  It seemed to be going up and down in rpms and never getting to a steady speed.  I suspected it was going bad and then replaced it and when I first put the new one in, it ran good and strong.  Then after a few minutes of operation, it started to do the same low rpm up and down pattern. 

In the manual, it says that the DC motor has a rpm gain and loss at the low and mid speeds, but this seems really low.

When I put the meter on the wires at the board I got really low voltage, around 1 VDC and not steady.   

Also, there was tape around the connector for the evap and condenser fan.  When I took the tape off, there was a small resistor wired in across the red and blue wires.  Blue is the tachometer and red is the 12 VDC power supply. 

The board had no signs of being bad.  I have replaced a few of these boards and usually there is evidence of something burnt out. 

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?  Luckily the people are nice and the Ref is in the garage, so it is not that big of a deal.

Any help would be great.  Thanks.

Samsung Washer WF206BNWXAA not spinning or pumping all water out.

30 September 2013 - 08:33 AM

I had a call last week on a Samsung front load washer not spinning or pumping all the water out.  M# WF206BNWXAA.

I went out and checked everything out.  I ran it through all the tests from the service manual.  Everything worked properly.  The only stored error codes were 22 and 10.  There had been 3 cycles since the 10 error and 99 cycles since the 22. 

I cleaned everything out and made sure there was nothing clogging the drain down to the pump. 

During the test, the pump ran fine and the tub spun over 1000 rpms. 

I put a wet blanket in and put it on spin only and it all worked fine. 

The customer insisted there was something wrong and after reading some other posts, I came to the conclusion that the pump was failing under a full load.

I replaced the pump and checked everything out and it was fine.

customer called back this morning saying the washer is not spinning and draining completely.  Says the countdown just stays at 24 minutes left and won' t do anything.

I am leaning toward the main board at this point. 

Any suggestions? 

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