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scconsulting

Member Since 11 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Nov 20 2013 02:09 PM

Topics I've Started

GE refrigerator troubleshoot help

06 October 2013 - 03:10 PM

GE model pss25ngna ww stopped cooling last night, this morning everything in the freezer was melting and water leaking out as the ice in the icemaker melted.  The problem is in both the refrigerator and freezer side.  I have not heard the compressor kick on since this started.  The compressor is a little drum with 3 stubby electrical contacts sticking out the side.  They had two little modules attached by 3 corresponding wires.   I was able to pull the overload switch (top one with one black wire) and the other little switch (bottom one with one orange and one white wire)  that is listed at the "PTCR" in a diagram I found on a parts site, I don't know what that is.  Both items meter out at 6.8 ohms.  Can anyone tell me how to properly meter these two little switches to see if they are preventing the compressor from turning on?  Or if I can just temporarily just attach the connections directly to the compressor and see if it kicks on?


Whirlpool dryer LER4634EQ2 won't stay running +has a new motor

14 June 2013 - 02:57 PM

Just finished installing the 2nd brand new blower/drum motor in 2 weeks, and now it won't stay running, even on "Air only" setting with no heat.

 

Two weeks ago when it just died, I went on partselect.com and stepped through all of their suggestions for metering out everything until I got down to the motor, and it metered out of spec.  Diagram calls for 2.4-3.6 ohms on the main and 2.4-3.8 ohms on the start circuit.  Start was fine, but the main only showed 0.3-0.7.  So I ordered new motor from RepairClinic for a hundred bucks, plus an impeller, cause you can't get an old one off of an old motor shaft apparently without cutting it off.  So no big deal, part arrives and just being myself, I metered the new one and it only showed 1.7 (steady flat reading) on the main.  But I wanted my dryer fixed, and it ain't that hard to do, so I just shrugged and bolted everything back together with the new motor.  Fired it up- ran like a champ 2 loads of laundry dried that night no problem.

 

Next day, wife puts in a load, starts right up runs about 10 minutes and shuts off.  (Wtf?) Spun the settings dial, hit the button and started up again ran a good while, thought it had cut off because load was dry but we didn't check until the next morning only to discover the previous night's load was still barely moist.  So close to dry you could just barely tell, but not totally dry.  Set the dial hit the start button-Nothing.

 

Ran through the whole circus again metering everything from the little fuse, start switch, timer relay, really everything back down to the motor once again.  Figured it had to have something to do with the 1.7 reading out of the box, pulled it out, checked it and now it would only show 1.3-1.5 on the main.  Called RepairClinic, explained everything, they sent me a new unit and comped overnight shipping.  Just got it back together, started it on "auto-dry high heat", ran fine for a couple of minutes so I put another load of clean clothes in.  Started dryer on "auto dry high heat" again, it ran about 4 minutes and stopped.  I didn't touch anything, pushed the start button and it ran again this time for 8-9 minutes, shut off.  Thinking it may be an overheat issue that somehow I hadn't been able to find so far, I changed setting to "Fluff Air No heat", hit the start and it ran fine for about three minutes and sounded like it was going to cut off for just a second, but caught and kept running.  Like a dang car with a miss or something (? really weird?).  It did that and kept running maybe 4-5 more times over the next 10 minutes and then one time when it stuttered it did not catch and spool up again and shut off.  Pushed the start button and now back to nothing.  No response on any setting.  Now what ?


Help troubleshooting treadmill with GE 1/2 hp motor

11 October 2012 - 05:26 PM

Ok, I know the first answer to this is : take it to a junkyard or scrap the metal. But I am determined to make this work regardless if it makes sense or not at this point. Now that that's out of the way...This is an old treadmill from like 1988, and it worked until about 5 seconds before I loaded it up and brought it home. Didn't really see a spark or flash or anything, it just stopped like a normal stop if you pushed the stop button. I picked up a new relay because it was just a few bucks and they had it at my local elect.supply store. I swapped it in with no results. I've checked pretty much every wire and switch that I could with an ohm meter. But I don't understand what the relay does inside or why it's there. Or how the stop button works (whether pushing it is supposed to open or close the switch, but right now the way it is wired it opens the switch when you push it. The master power is closed in the on position and open in the off position. The "start" bump switch is closed when you push it and open when you let go. The "reset" breaker doesn't seem to do anything, but it meters closed and I bypassed it once an tried that with no result. I read on another site to rotate the motor manually and see if it produces voltage, and it does. So I don't know where to start next. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Here are some pics and sadly hand drawn wiring detail....I can post the drawings with more detail, but with the 500K limit this is all I can post for now.


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