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fairbank56

Member Since 17 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 12:17 PM

#314372 Maytag MAV6000AWW No cold. Replaced Valve. No dice.

Posted by fairbank56 on 28 February 2015 - 03:01 PM

  Well, don't know what else I can suggest without being there to troubleshoot the machine myself. Here's a partial wiring diagram of your machine showing the current path for cold wash with purple and blue wire disconnected and jumped together. Power is direct to the cold water valve with temp switch set to cold/cold. There should be no power to the hot water valve with temp at cold/cold unless the board is faulty or something is hooked up wrong. It should be simple to figure out why the cold water isn't working with your jumper in place. Just follow the diagram.

 

Eric

 

MAV6000coldwash.jpg




#313971 Whrilpool GSQ9669LWI stops and makes clicking sound

Posted by fairbank56 on 22 February 2015 - 10:42 PM

  That is the motor repeatedly cutting on/off and could be due to a faulty motor centrifugal switch, timer, speed select switch, faulty connection at motor connector or an open motor winding. Going to need a bit more information to narrow it down. When does the problem occur? What part of the cycle? Agitation, drain, spin? What speed selections? I assume it does not do this during drain right after agitation stops? During that 2 minute drain, the centrifugal switch and speed select switch are bypassed.

 

Eric




#313878 Roper RED4440VQ1 Dryer

Posted by fairbank56 on 21 February 2015 - 04:17 PM

  Right on. The grounded element was causing the dryer to overheat which blew the thermal fuse which killed power to the motor.

 

Eric




#313861 Maytag MAV6000AWW No cold. Replaced Valve. No dice.

Posted by fairbank56 on 21 February 2015 - 10:05 AM

  If your getting cold in rinse, then there is nothing wrong with the water inlet valve assembly or the hoses. Rinse cycle bypasses the temp control board so it sounds like a faulty control board but could be the timer. In wash fill, check for 120vac at the control board black wire. Also check between control board black wire and white wire for same 120vac to make sure you have neutral to the board. There should also be 120vac at the control board purple wire. If you have 120vac at the black wire but not the purple wire, then the temp switch is suspect.

 

Eric

 

Part number: AP4028021

Part number: AP4028021




#313855 Roper RED4440VQ1 Dryer

Posted by fairbank56 on 21 February 2015 - 08:03 AM

  I get what your saying about these timers but a faulty timer on a dryer that won't start simply cannot cause a heating element to conduct current unless the element is grounded or the motor switch is stuck in the run position. The timer is supposed to apply one leg of power to the element when it's on in a heating cycle and not supposed to when it's off and that's just what it's doing. My moneys on the motor since a stuck centrifugal switch would cause both of his symptoms and as you say, most problems are the result of one defective part and a defective timer alone cannot cause the heat element to come on.

 

  Here's the wiring diagram. He turns the timer on which applies L1 to one side of the element as highlighted. How can a defective timer apply L2 to the other side of the element? Only a closed motor switch can do that or if the element is grounded, you would have a current return path via that ground.

 

Eric

 

dryer.jpg




#313801 Roper RED4440VQ1 Dryer

Posted by fairbank56 on 19 February 2015 - 11:25 PM

  Explain how a faulty timer can cause the heat element to function when one job of the timer is to do exactly that. Report is that with timer off, no heat. With timer on in any heat cycle, heat element is on, regardless of motor switch. Can't be the timer. I agree, these are junk timers and they fail often but these symptoms are not an indication of timer failure.

 

  Another possibility is that the motor switch is stuck in the run position. This would prevent motor from starting and cause heat element to function with timer on in any heat cycle. Does the motor hum when operating the start switch? If so, this is the likely problem. If not, check the thermal fuse.

 

Eric




#313792 Roper RED4440VQ1 Dryer

Posted by fairbank56 on 19 February 2015 - 09:17 PM

  Heater element is grounded. As for not starting, check the thermal fuse.

 

Eric




#313791 Kenmore Dryer 110.66752500 heating element on even when motor off

Posted by fairbank56 on 19 February 2015 - 09:14 PM

  The heating element is grounded. Check resistance of heating element terminals to the metal heater box.

 

Eric




#313479 How to hook up test cord to 3951550 Whirlpool direct drive washer motor?

Posted by fairbank56 on 15 February 2015 - 07:31 PM

  Test cord neutral to motor white wire, jumper from motor white/black wire to motor yellow wire. Test cord hot side to motor blue wire and to motor terminal where harness red wire would connect. Place start capacitor in series with this wire.

 

Eric




#313150 Roper Waher RAS6233KQQ Full of Water Wont Drain

Posted by fairbank56 on 10 February 2015 - 10:22 PM

  Remove the cabinet and check the drain pump. Unclip the pump from the motor and pull it off the motor shaft with drain hoses still connected. See if washer will now agitate. If so, drain washer manually, remove hoses and check inside pump for obstruction.

 

Eric




#312162 Kenmore washer 110.20922990 trips breaker at spin

Posted by fairbank56 on 27 January 2015 - 10:57 PM

  I would check the motor wiring connector for any corrosion or gunk possibly causing some current to leak to ground. A GFCI works by monitoring the current in the hot wire and neutral wire which should be exactly the same. Any difference is caused by a leak to ground and causes the GFCI to trip. The ground connection at the motor is via the green with yellow stripe wire. When you switch from agitation to spin, voltage polarity to the start winding is reversed. It is possible to release individual wires from the motor connector. There is a tab inside each pin housing that you can push aside and then pull the wire from the connector. You could do this to the ground wire to confirm whether the problem is within the motor connector, motor switch or the motor itself.

 

Eric




#312126 Kenmore Dryer110.85862400 Does not dry clothes completely

Posted by fairbank56 on 27 January 2015 - 06:31 PM

  I don't think the problem is the moisture bars. If they were shorting out, the control board would sense that the clothes are still wet so it would continue the drying time in auto cycle. Shouldn't have any affect on the heat setting. That is a function of the thermistor.

 

Eric




#311985 Whirlpool Dryer WED5500SQ0

Posted by fairbank56 on 25 January 2015 - 06:40 PM

  Sounds like a bad timer. Jump timer terminals T to W and see if it will work. If so, replace the timer. There are two sets of internal contacts in the timer for the W terminal. One is for wrinkle guard, the other is for all other cycles.

 

Eric

 

Part number: AP3136147

Part number: AP3136147




#311891 WSM2420D3WW - No Spin

Posted by fairbank56 on 24 January 2015 - 09:46 AM

  Yes, the motor should spin when just sitting on the floor and connected. Sounds like a faulty timer.

 

Eric

 

Part number: AP2045781

Part number: AP2045781




#311304 Whirlpool LEC78480 (QO) Dryer Not Heating

Posted by fairbank56 on 16 January 2015 - 05:47 PM

  I think the correct model number is probably LEC7848DQ0. Anyway, definitely worth repairing if it is otherwise in good shape. It's not the thermal fuse as the motor would not run if that was bad. Suggest you unplug dryer, remove back panel and do a continuity test on the thermal cutoff, hi limit thermostat, operating thermostat (outer terminals) and check resistance of the heater coil which should be around 8 to 12 ohms. Report back with your findings. These are just static tests but are an easy and safe way to start if you have little experience with testing live circuits.

 

Eric







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