Yes, if timer is on and motor switch is stuck closed, then you will have 240vac across the heater coil. OP said didn't matter what position timer was in so assume that includes OFF position. With timer off and motor switch stuck closed, you will not have power across the coil unless you have some other malfunction.
The temp switch part number he gave is a combination load sense/temp (ATC) switch but if pressing the timer knob in to turn the washer off does not stop the water flow, then the problem is the inlet valve assembly as already stated.
I doubt it's the gearcase since it runs fine without clothes in basket. You should not be able to easily rotate the basket by hand so that signals a bad drive block. Remove the agitator to inspect the top of the drive block. Check that the slots in the drive block are intact as well as the tabs on the drive tube and that the tabs are engaged and locked into the slots. Check that the spanner nut is tight. Rotate basket while observing drive block. If basket rotates independently of drive block or basket and drive block rotate together but independent of drive tube then drive block is bad. If basket, drive block and drive tube all rotate together then something is amiss with the brakes.
For all the electrically challenged reading this thread, NEVER check for a hot chassis by placing yourself between a known good ground and that chassis looking for a "tickle". Might as well play russian roulette. That goes on my list of dumbest things Iv'e ever heard of.
The most disturbing thing is the fact that when the button is pushed in, it doesn't kill power to the system. It's still reacting and running.
Unplug timer connector. Does that kill the power? If so, timer is bad. No "ground" can cause this problem. Visually inspect timer connector and wiring harness leading from it. Probably nothing out of the ordinary. Replace timer. I have the wiring diagram if anybody wants it but it's just a standard Whirlpool no frills two speed system.
You mean brake cam driver? Your saying that these two clips were missing? The one on the brake shoe pivot point and the one that holds the brake cam driver on? If that is the case, let's see a close up side view photo of the T bearing with clip and brake cam driver removed. It may be that the T bearing is worn down to the point that the clip won't stay on.
Any time either the thermal cutoff or hi limit goes bad, you should replace them both. That's why, in many cases, they come in a kit. But that still doesn't address the problem. The hi limit should not be cycling either. I don't know what to tell you. I guess you could replace the control board and send it back if it doesn't fix the problem.
Eric, it has a thermal fuse, this is the part on Part Select-
Thermal Fuse with bracket
Part Number: PS2038484
That's just ParstSelect getting it wrong as many parts sites do. It's a thermal cutoff, not that it really matters but the thermal fuse on an electric dryer is on the blower housing and is in the motor circuit, not the heat circuit, however, on this dryer, that protective device in the motor circuit is also a thermal cutoff. Here's part of the tech sheet for your dryer. They get the wire colors wrong in the text as it says red and black on the thermal cutoff but on the wiring diagram, it shows black and blue. Don't have the answer to your problem though, maybe these thermal cutoffs are junk.
Posted by fairbank56
on 28 February 2014 - 09:58 AM
You say, no high speed spin, is it spinning on other speeds? If so, then doesn't make sense that you are not getting power to the motor control board. Wax motor can be operating normally yet door switch auxiliary contacts that are operated by wax motor could still be faulty. Not all models use these auxiliary contacts, don't know about this model, you would have to check wiring. Wiring diagram shows it as an option.