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fairbank56

Member Since 17 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 08:26 AM

#308996 Maytag LDG7600AAW trouble getting started

Posted by fairbank56 on 06 December 2014 - 06:18 PM

  When I check the APP site, it shows Part number: AP4037199

Part number: AP4037199

for your model.

 

http://www.appliance...ldg7600aaw.html

 

The one you got is for the LDG7400-9700-9800

 

Eric




#308561 Kenmore 110.28812790,Loud noise in spin cycle

Posted by fairbank56 on 30 November 2014 - 07:21 PM

  Does it sound like this?   If so, bad transmission.

 

Eric

 




#307916 Kenmore 110.21302010 loud noise during spin

Posted by fairbank56 on 20 November 2014 - 09:59 AM

  I agree the VMW's are junk but if you like fixing things and don't mind doing some work, that bearing can be replaced. The bearing is only a few bucks. It's just a standard 6006. The transmission is not made to be serviceable but you can drill out the fasteners that keep the two halves of the outer transmission housing together and then replace with #14 self tapping screws. Also replace the tub seal that probably leaked into the bearing.

 

Eric




#307738 Maytag Centennial MVWC400XW3 clothes not clean!

Posted by fairbank56 on 17 November 2014 - 03:22 PM

  It's not going to run with the lid lock disconnected. You will have to remove the lid strike from the lid and place it into the lock as if the lid is closed. Open the top panel to get to the tech sheet or upgrade your membership and download it from here. It will walk you through the diagnostics. The console panel LED lamps are used as indicators during diagnostics.

 

Eric




#307598 Maytag Atlantis MAV6200AWW runs wash cycle only, no rinse or spin

Posted by fairbank56 on 14 November 2014 - 09:10 PM

  Yes, if it just continues agitation when it should have switched to drain/spin, for sure it's the timer. Good call Maytag1, I didn't quite get what he was saying. Didn't make sense about the lid switch til now :whistling:

 

Eric




#307554 Kenmore 11023822100 does not drain/ spin after wash/rinse agitation

Posted by fairbank56 on 13 November 2014 - 11:33 PM

  Well, the timer motor runs which means the switch is working and he says it will drain/spin if he manually selects drain/spin so I think it's more likely the timer but it's easy enough to jump out the lid switch to rule that out.

 

Eric




#307478 GE WCSR2080B2WW doesn't spin

Posted by fairbank56 on 12 November 2014 - 05:46 PM

  It's just aluminum, chisel or cut it off with dremel tool, should be easy, just be careful not to damage the threads on the transmission as Doc said.

 

Eric




#307401 Whirlpool Duet dryer WED9151YW0 heats all the time

Posted by fairbank56 on 11 November 2014 - 10:08 AM

  You can get to the heat element by just taking the toe panel off the front of the dryer. Here is your parts manual.

 

http://shared.whirlp...- W10418056.pdf

 

Eric




#307345 G.E. WVSR1060A1WW

Posted by fairbank56 on 10 November 2014 - 08:31 AM

  Only place oil can come from is the transmission. Sounds like upper seal failure. Transmission is not repairable.

 

Eric

 

Part number: AP2046402

Part number: AP2046402




#307292 Kenmore (aka Whirlpool) 26882 Top Load Washer

Posted by fairbank56 on 08 November 2014 - 06:04 PM

  The WTW4800BQ is a totally different machine. The model you have now is a Whirlpool direct drive, the most ubiquitous machine design out there and a workhorse of a machine for some 30 years. They stopped making them except for commercial models and stacked laundry units, about 3 years ago. The replacement is the so called Vertical Modular Washer which is what the WTW4800 is. A real piece of junk in my professional opinion. The only decent top loader left on the market are the Speed Queen models. They will run you around $800 but are well worth it. The Whirlpool direct drive is relatively easy to service and parts are readily available and it's worth fixing but if you have to have it fixed for you, well, it's going to cost you.

 

Eric




#307283 GE WCSR2080B2WW doesn't spin

Posted by fairbank56 on 08 November 2014 - 01:28 PM

  Rotate the motor pulley by hand in spin direction (CW viewed from below). This should cause belt and large pulley, transmission and basket to rotate as well. Use two hands to keep it going because the brake will stop it as soon as you stop rotating. If it rotates ok, this tells us there is nothing binding and preventing the transmission and basket from rotating. If good, then clutch needs servicing or replacement. Check to see how much the clutch pads are worn. If there is plenty of pad left, may just need cleaning and lubricating. Lubricate where the clutch drive contacts the clutch shoes. Don't get any on the pads or inside of pulley.

 

Eric

 

GEclutch.jpg

 

GEclutch1.jpg

 

GEclutch2.jpg




#307280 Kenmore (aka Whirlpool) 26882 Top Load Washer

Posted by fairbank56 on 08 November 2014 - 01:14 PM

  There are 4 different versions of that model so we need the full model number to reference parts diagrams. The way to figure this out is to run the machine with the cabinet off. You will  have to bypass the lid switch to do that. Run a normal load. After agitation stops, washer should drain for a full 2 minutes without spinning. Then motor should pause for a few seconds and start again. Then it should start spinning. If there is no pause, the timer is faulty. If there is a pause but basket does not spin, observe the clutch hub. If it is not rotating, there is a problem with the transmission, most likely needing replacement of the neutral drain mechanism. If clutch hub is rotating then the clutch is probably slipping. This could be because the clutch pads are worn and clutch needs to be replaced or the brakes may be sticking.

 

Eric




#307249 GE DWSR483EG9WW

Posted by fairbank56 on 07 November 2014 - 02:55 PM

  GE does not use thermal fuses in their dryers. The safety device between the timer and start switch is the hi limit thermostat. It is a self resetting safety switch. Samurai meant to say the timer C terminal, not TC. He also meant to say that you should read 0 (zero) volts between timer C and start switch 4 with start switch not activated. With timer on, check voltage to ground at start switch terminal 4. Should be about 120vac. While monitoring that voltage, turn the start switch on, voltage should remain around 120vac. If it drops significantly, do the same test at timer C terminal. If voltage drops there as well when start switch is engaged, do same test at timer B terminal. These tests will tell you if you have a bad hi limit thermostat, timer or L1 input connection problem. If voltage does not drop during any of these tests, check voltage to ground at start switch terminal 2 with start switch activated. If voltage well below 120vac there, then the switch is bad. If the voltage remains around 120vac there then we need to check the neutral circuit and motor.

 

Eric




#307199 GE dryer DPVH890GJ1MG motor shuts off after 5 seconds

Posted by fairbank56 on 06 November 2014 - 04:11 PM

  Could be. Check sensor connector. Should have 5 volts DC between red and black wires. Between black and yellow wires, you should see voltage alternating between 5 volts DC and 0 volts as blower rotates. Expensive piece of hardware.

 

Eric

 

Part number: AP4368204

Part number: AP4368204




#307069 GE Washer Model #WPRB9220D1WW

Posted by fairbank56 on 04 November 2014 - 11:28 AM

  Uploaded service manual to downloads section.

 

http://appliantology...service-manual/

 

Eric







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