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fairbank56

Member Since 17 Oct 2012
Online Last Active Today, 11:27 AM

#284429 Maytag Dryer Mod #MDG6200AWW timer not advancing

Posted by fairbank56 on 13 February 2014 - 04:07 PM

 If it doesn't advance in timed dry, then either the timer is bad or the external yellow jumper on the timer between BK and YL is faulty, but this doesn't explain why it wouldn't work in auto-dry. No advance in auto-dry points to a faulty cycling thermostat or it's not cycling due to air flow problem or heat problem. Also check orange wire between cycling thermostat and temp switch.

 

Eric




#284392 How do you hook up a Test Cord to this Dryer Motor? (Picture)

Posted by fairbank56 on 13 February 2014 - 09:57 AM

  Hot to white, neutral to yellow. Don't know on your other question, depends on the dryer.

 

Eric




#284263 Dryer does not start

Posted by fairbank56 on 11 February 2014 - 10:54 PM

  Check for broken belt or faulty belt switch.

 

Eric




#284260 No heat to dry clothes. Maytag Neptune MDE5500AYQ

Posted by fairbank56 on 11 February 2014 - 10:36 PM

  Based on your voltage test results, I'd say there is something wrong with the way you are doing the checks as it's not likely that both the motor switch and control board are faulty. Guess you'll just have to parts swap til it's fixed.

 

Eric




#284125 No heat to dry clothes. Maytag Neptune MDE5500AYQ

Posted by fairbank56 on 10 February 2014 - 06:11 PM

  If dryer motor runs and interior lamp comes on when door is opened, then you have 240vac. Disconnect brown jumper wire from heater element terminal and check for 120vac to ground at that heater terminal with dryer running. If you don't have it there, motor switch may be bad. If you do, check for 120vac at cycling thermostat purple wire (both). If you don't have it there, control board is probably bad.

 

Eric




#284119 GE washing machine GTWP2250D0WW won't spin or agitate

Posted by fairbank56 on 10 February 2014 - 05:02 PM

  Long stop time means it takes too long for the basket to stop after spinning. This is definitely a motor/inverter problem because electronic motor braking is used in these washers to stop the basket. The timing on the error flash is odd though. The error codes are given in a 6 second window, so an error 1 would be one flash and then about a 5 second pause before repeating the cycle. Try resetting the error code by unplugging washer for one minute, plug back in and then open/close lid more than 5 times.

 

Eric




#284025 Kenmore 90 Series - Won't Start

Posted by fairbank56 on 09 February 2014 - 01:30 PM

Question 1:  As I said, I get the logic mentioned above.  But if it's instead the hi-limit thermostat that goes... is it also necessary or prudent to replace the thermal cutoff?  If so, why?

 

Question 2:  Will it help at all to run it on Medium "Knits" vs. Medium/High "Permanent Press?"  Since the coil is either on or off, it seems like just as much heat could be generated while it's on, regardless of the 2 settings I just mentioned.

 

Question 3:  So now the 196F thermal fusae goes.  Hmmmm.  Could a bad hi-limit thermostat... and a fresh thermal cutoff (that's holding its own for now)... be allowing too much heat through... causing the thermal fuse to go?  Could the thermal fuse just have blown from age?

 

Thoughts?

 

Answer 1. The hi-limit rarely fails. It is normally closed and simply completes the heat circuit. If it gets too hot in the heater box, it will open and cut the heat off. If it continues to cycle endlessly it may fail and get stuck in the closed position at which point the heat in the box will continue to rise until the thermal cutoff blows. My take on this is if either one of them fails, replace them both. It's cheap insurance compared to the cost of your house burning down.

 

Answer 2. The average heat temperature in the dryer is controlled by the cycling thermostat. It will cycle on/off to maintain proper temperature. The thermostat has a bias heater inside of it that is powered when medium or low heat is selected. This causes the thermostat to cycle off at a lower temperature so that the average heat in the dryer is lower.

 

Answer 3. If the cycling thermostat is working properly and airflow is not restricted, the thermal fuse should not blow. The hi-limit thermostat is not for controlling the heat, the cycling thermostat is. In a properly running dryer, the hi-limit never opens. If it does, the cycling thermostat is bad or there's an air flow problem. One thing about this dryer design is that the blower is at the front of the dryer, the heater box is at the bottom of the dryer and in close proximity to the blower exhaust duct. Age can always be a factor in why parts fail. That said, my dryer, Maytag DE512 is 28 years old and has never had any kind of failure. Even still has original belt.

 

Eric




#283885 whirlpool gas dryer wont fire

Posted by fairbank56 on 08 February 2014 - 10:57 AM

  Assume dryer motor runs? Unplug dryer, set timer to timed dry setting, check continuity between power cord hot (small blade) and blue wires at thermal fuse. If open, check operating thermostat, thermal cutoff, hi-limit thermostat, timer terminals A to C. If all good, check flame sensor, should read zero ohms (closed circuit). If ok, need to check motor switch.

 

Eric




#283815 Kenmore 90 Series - Won't Start

Posted by fairbank56 on 07 February 2014 - 06:41 PM

  You might want to replace that operating thermostat. It is right next to the thermal fuse and is set to open at 155° while the thermal fuse is set to blow at 196° When the operating thermostat opens, the heat shuts off although if there is enough blockage in the vent system, the heat in that area could still rise enough to blow the fuse. 

 

Eric




#283705 GE Model WSM2700DAWWW no spin cycle

Posted by fairbank56 on 06 February 2014 - 07:07 PM

  Unplug machine, unplug timer harness connector and check continuity between power plug neutral (large blade) and timer connector terminal for the wht/red wire with lid closed. If you don't have continuity, the lid switch circuit is open. If good continuity, timer is bad.

 

Eric




#283682 ge washer whre555ok2ww

Posted by fairbank56 on 06 February 2014 - 04:41 PM

  There is no transmission. Must remove inner tub. Pull outer tub and assembly out and flip over for replacement of mode shifter. It is recommended by GE that motor/inverter be replaced as well because blown fuse in shifter coil assembly is caused by bad programming on inverter board. Problem occurs when lid is opened at certain time during the cycle. If you load washer as instructed and leave it, your ok, but if you go back and open lid, that's when problem can occur.

 

Eric




#283678 Maytag Dryer MDE8400AYW

Posted by fairbank56 on 06 February 2014 - 04:38 PM

  Another tidbit of information on this. If original timer has Kingston 71020 written on it, it appears that series 16 timer 33002808 is the correct replacement. Check that circuit board for blown component. Wrong timer installation apparently causes catastrophic failure of board.

 

Eric




#283557 whirlpool electric dryer LER4634EQ0

Posted by fairbank56 on 05 February 2014 - 01:37 PM

  Here ya go.

Attached Files




#283552 Stack dryer won't turn off

Posted by fairbank56 on 05 February 2014 - 01:12 PM

  Sticking motor relay.

 

http://www.repaircli...0133335/1449982

 

Eric




#283298 Whirlpool dryer LGR8857EQ0 only works when applying pressure to timer knob

Posted by fairbank56 on 03 February 2014 - 01:53 PM

  Check connections on back of timer. If all tight and clean, then replace the timer.

 

http://www.repaircli...er/3397273/2034

 

Eric







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