There is a thermistor and a thermal fuse which are right next to each other. Which one are you refering to? A fault in either one would not prevent the motor from starting. The thermal fuse has two red wires attached to it, the thermistor has a red/wht and a black wire attached. Did you check the door switch?
Already pulled motor out of unit, belt is fine, belt switch was tested for continuity, works properly, this is a NO switch, so continuity only exists if the belt breaks, therefor the switch would close.
That is incorrect. With belt intact and in place, you should read continuity across switch. If belt breaks, switch opens. Gas valves will not work unless motor is running. The thermal fuse on this dryer is in the heat circuit, not the motor circuit.
Lay washer on it's front for access. The clutch shaft is at the front of the transmission so you can't get to it from the rear access panel. You can plug the transmission vent hole right behind the rear yoke support shaft to prevent oil leakage.
Clutch should be adjusted for 1/16" clearance. Looks like your model uses spacer washers versus an adjusting nut. You would add or remove washers to make adjustment. You would first start machine in agitation cycle so clutch is disengaged, or disengage manually by rotating main drive pulley CW until spin cam bar is all the way forward, and then check clearance between clutch lining and surface of drive pulley. Add/remove washers to adjust clearance. This of course requires pulling spin cam bar to drop clutch shaft.
Resecure gearcase bolts and spacer and reinstall mounting brackets.
If you do it that way, before reinstalling the support brackets, tighten transmission bolts finger tight only, set machine upright, then tighten bolts securely and then lay back down to install support brackets. This is to allow proper alignment with the centerpost bearing as per Whirlpool instructions. That's why I prefer pulling the cam bar and lowering the clutch shaft instead of lowering transmission. Don't have to loosen all transmission bolts, don't have to worry about losing the ball for the spin tube support bearing, don't have to worry about damaging centerpost or spin tube seals.
To replace the belt, you must also remove the three baseplate to transmission supports. The procedure of pulling the spin cam bar and lowering the clutch shaft to gain clearance over the clutch shaft as suggested is one of two methods for belt replacement. I have the belt replacement instructions if you need them. Is the belt in bad shape?
The mini manual with wiring diagram is available here but you will have to upgrade to apprentice to be able to download it. It does not contain a schematic for the control board and you will never find one for that.
With the belt off the transmission, how hard should it be to spin the tub? As I spin it sounds like something is rotating or sliding across another surface, louder but similar to when you press your knuckles in paper and drag them.
You can't spin the tub, you have to rotate the pulley in order for the brake to release properly. It should be relatively easy to rotate but you must keep it going by hand or else the brake will immediately re-apply. As you rotate the pulley, the dogs on the cam should rotate towards the dogs on the brake hub causing the brake hub to lift up from the cam (gap should open between the two) which lifts the brake drum to release the brake. One common problem here is the grease drying up in this mechanism. The top of the cam and bottom of the brake hub have tapered grooves in them with ball bearings in them. As the cam rotates, the balls ride in the tapered grooves to the shallow part of the grooves so that the balls lift the brake hub upwards. If the grease dries up and/or if it's dirty/gummy in there, the balls won't move and the brake won't fully release.
OH NO! forgive my ignorance here... Can you explain to me how the direct drive whirlpool/Kenmore can go into drain, pause then spin?
The transmission has a neutral drain mechanism. During the first few seconds of agitation mode, the mechanism gets "set". After agitation stops, motor starts again in reverse direction causing pump to discharge water from tub. A latch engages a cam in the neutral drain mechanism preventing the spin pawl from engaging the spin gear. After 2 minutes of draining, the motor stops causing the latch to disengage the cam allowing the spin pawl to engage the spin gear when motor starts again. Pump continues to drain.
The first direct drive models (1980-1985) were direct to spin. All models after 1985 are neutral drain type. Yours is an 06 model.
Normal operation. Washer should drain for a full 2 minutes without spinning, then motor pauses and starts again at which point it will spin while continuing to drain. If motor doesn't pause to shift transmission out of neutral, timer is bad. You are pausing the motor by opening the lid.
Classic faulty temp switch symptoms. Open control panel, disconnect pressure hose from temp switch and blow into hose to make sure its clear. Reattach hose and try washer. If ok, go with it, if not replace switch. Complain to Sears and/or Whirlpool, you might get compensation as these switch failures are very common. The faulty switch causes washer to add water at end of spin cycle which is why your clothes are wet. Spin is probably fine.