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fairbank56

Member Since 17 Oct 2012
Online Last Active Today, 10:34 PM

#319729 hot point washer model# htwp1400f1ww moters not lasting

Posted by fairbank56 on 11 May 2015 - 07:53 PM

  Yep, knew about that but didn't think of it. GE has been doing this on machines with electronic control for many years. My 13 year old model will do this. It disables the machine if it doesn't detect the lid switch operating after a couple loads. It tells you about it in some of their service manuals. Good job on figuring it out.

 

Eric




#319672 hot point washer model# htwp1400f1ww moters not lasting

Posted by fairbank56 on 11 May 2015 - 10:44 AM

  No, the fuse does not reset. If it was blown, you would read open circuit. There's no fuse on the inverter board. There is a fuse in the wiring harness but if you have been just replacing motors and the new ones work, then that fuse is ok. These washers are such junk.

 

Eric




#319570 hot point washer model# htwp1400f1ww moters not lasting

Posted by fairbank56 on 10 May 2015 - 08:17 AM

  Check the mode shifter coil resistance. Should be either about 65 ohms or 93 ohms depending on which version you have. If it's open, then the internal fuse has blown. This would cause the entire tub to go back and forth during agitation cycle possibly overloading the motor.

 

Eric




#319554 Kenmore Dryer help please Model 110 86980800 69808.

Posted by fairbank56 on 09 May 2015 - 10:16 PM

 Need photo of your wiring diagram and photo of your motor and wiring harness connector. All you need to run motor is blue to pin 4 and white to pin 5. Pins 1 and 2 (opposite ends of connector) are for heat circuit switch. Pin 7 is ground. Pin 6 is auxiliary probably for buzzer. Pins 1, 5 and 6 are not close to each other and 6 is not on the bottom so not sure what the heck your talking about.

 

Eric




#319454 More Disabled Veteran Woes. WhirlMore 110.22842100

Posted by fairbank56 on 08 May 2015 - 05:04 PM

  Sounds like your motor coupler may be failing. I would check that first. They can fail to the point that spin won't work but agitate still will, or at least, to some extent.

 

Eric

 

Part number: AP3963893

Part number: AP3963893




#319409 GE DRYER DWXR473ET5WW

Posted by fairbank56 on 07 May 2015 - 06:59 PM

  Yes, that's correct but he has already replaced it, that's the outlet bias thermostat. I would say that it is not cycling properly due to low heat. Need to check temps and/or monitor voltage across the thermostat.

 

Eric




#319405 Ge dryer DPVH890EJ1WW

Posted by fairbank56 on 07 May 2015 - 06:14 PM

  Uploaded service manual for you.

 

http://appliantology...service-manual/

 

Eric




#319202 Maytag MET3800XW2 Won't fill to level

Posted by fairbank56 on 05 May 2015 - 06:06 AM

  Obviously a siphoning problem, where else can the water be going? Unless the tub is leaking and there is a floor drain under the washer. Also make sure there is an air gap around the drain hose where it goes into the standpipe. It should not be a sealed connection.

 

Eric




#319063 WBSE2090A2WW No Spin

Posted by fairbank56 on 02 May 2015 - 03:48 PM

  Try rotating the pulley by hand as I show in the linked video below. Notice the entire transmission rotating. If it works as shown without having to use excessive force, then you probably just need to service the clutch or just replace it. The clutch is inside the motor pulley.

 

 

Eric

 

Photo's of clutch:

 

GEclutch.jpg

 

GEclutch1.jpg

 

GEclutch2.jpg




#319057 Kenmore/Whirlpool 26_26882_500 Top Washer 2nd Rinse/Spin

Posted by fairbank56 on 02 May 2015 - 01:49 PM

Part number: AP3018165

Part number: AP3018165




#319044 Kenmore/Whirlpool 26_26882_500 Top Washer 2nd Rinse/Spin

Posted by fairbank56 on 02 May 2015 - 08:51 AM


 

 

 And if I open and close lid, and still doesn't go into spin, what might that be???

 

The trans shift mechanism fail sounds like BAD problem (aka expensive). Is that so??? How might this have been prevented? Previous posts on this machine have indicated its an old school commercial grade machine that should last more than 9 1/2 years.....in no way comparable to their cheap agitator models today.

 

  Well, then you would need to observe things by running the machine with the cabinet off and lid switch bypassed. You would look at the clutch hub while the machine is in spin cycle. If it isn't spinning, then the problem is in the transmission assuming the motor coupler is intact. If it is spinning but basket is not, then look up into the brake hub above the clutch. If the basket drive is not rotating then you have a clutch problem, brake cam driver problem or sticking brakes. If it is rotating then the tub drive block is worn out. These things are unlikely since your symptoms only happen occasionally. I think it much more likely a timer or neutral drain problem. The transmission is serviceable so the neutral drain parts can be replaced or you could just replace the transmission. Neutral drain kit is about $20, new transmission about $170. It is certainly worthwhile to repair this machine vice buying any of the junk they sell these days. Your machine is not "commercial grade", it's a standard Whirlpool direct drive design.

 

Eric




#319028 Kenmore/Whirlpool 26_26882_500 Top Washer 2nd Rinse/Spin

Posted by fairbank56 on 01 May 2015 - 08:46 PM

  I don't think this is a clutch problem since it only happens occasionally. I think when it happens, it's because the transmission has not shifted out of neutral which means it drains but will not spin for the entire spin cycle.  At end of cycle, the soaked clothes continue to drain into the tub which is no longer being pumped out, leaving a small amount of water in the bottom of the tub. This can be caused by a faulty timer not pausing the motor after the 2 minute drain period or the transmissions neutral drain mechanism is failing to shift out of neutral on occasion. The only way to tell would be if you were monitoring the final spin cycle when the problem happens. Directly after agitation stops, the washer goes into a 2 minute drain period without spin. After the 2 minutes, the motor should stop for a few seconds and then start again. This action shifts the transmission out of neutral so that when the motor starts, it goes into spin while continuing to drain. If there is no pause of the motor, the timer is faulty. If there is a pause but it won't go into spin, open and close the lid to pause the motor again. If it then goes into spin, then the neutral drain mechanism is failing.

 

Eric




#319010 Kenmore/Whirlpool 26_26882_500 Top Washer 2nd Rinse/Spin

Posted by fairbank56 on 01 May 2015 - 06:18 PM

11026882500 ?

 

  Sounds like an intermittent timer issue. Clutch has nothing to do with drain function. Check that the left side lid hinge screws are tight. This hinge operates the lid switch and if loose, can cause intermittent lid switch operation.

 

Eric




#318922 GE model # WHDSR316G5WW washer that will not run

Posted by fairbank56 on 30 April 2015 - 01:40 PM


The voltages unfortunately are correct, Every 120 volt component has 120 volts.

 

  How are you checking these voltages? Are you checking with respect to ground? What about neutral? You can measure 120vac to ground but if you have an open neutral, it ain't going to work. If you are measuring 120vac ACROSS one of the water inlet solenoids and it's not filling, then the valve assembly is bad. Same goes for the pump. Sounds like you have an open neutral. You didn't answer my question about the inverter error code indicator.

 

Eric




#318921 Kenmore elite he3 dryer cord/plug incompatibility

Posted by fairbank56 on 30 April 2015 - 01:33 PM

  That will work, as long as it's long enough, it's a four foot one.

 

Eric







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