Check for 120vac at orange wire of motor connector with timer set to spin (lid switch bypassed)(timer must be set after the 2 minute drain period). BTW, motor does not have a "spin winding". Same windings are used for spin as for agitate. Post photo of wiring diagram and timer chart. Problem sounds like faulty motor switch which is bypassed during drain. The short spin may be because washer is spinning only during 2 minute drain period due to neutral drain not working.
With washer on in fill mode, check voltage from violet to ground and also from pink to ground. Should be nominal 120vac on each. If you have 120vac at violet but not pink, switch is bad. If your reading 120vac across violet and pink, switch is open (should be closed, pink to violet with tub empty).
Disconnect violet and pink wires from pressure switch and jump them together to see if washer will fill normally. Pressure switch part number 3349897 is no longer available however I do see it on ebay, or you could probably adapt a newer type to your washer.
Sounds like you have a faulty water level pressure switch or faulty temp control board. During fill, you should have 120vac at switch pink/white wire. If voltage is good then switch is ok so check connections between switch and control board.
What is the part number of the timers you are using?
Sounds like you got another faulty timer. The control board is an auto temp control and only controls the water inlet valves. May be able to help further if you provide a copy of the wiring diagram. You would have to upgrade to apprentice to post it directly here, otherwise post it somewhere else and provide the link to it.
I'm getting 120volts at the plug between the black and white wires.
Power to the motor is not from the black and white wires, it's the blue (from belt switch) and white wires. The burner cannot come on unless the motor is running as neutral to burner is via motor centrifugal switch. There are two relays on the control board, one for heat, one for the motor. They should be labeled "heat" and "motor", Heat relay has the two wires attached to it. Relays are soldered in. You can rule out relay and control board by unplugging the 5 pin connector next to the relays and jumping pin 5 to pin 4 (black to light blue), dryer should start as soon as you plug it in if door is shut and door switch is ok.
I suspect your not testing the thermistor properly. You don't do a continuity check on it, you check it's resistance and your meter must be set for the proper scale, depending on the type of meter your using, for measuring resistance around 10K ohms. The E2 error means thermistor shorted. You should never do resistance or continuity checks on circuits under power.
I wouldn't recommend doing that. The thermistor has a nominal value of 10K ohms but varies according to temperature. It should read about 12K ohms at 70° and about 3K ohms at 130°. It is possible that the control board won't allow motor operation due to the open thermistor. Since it's bad, just go ahead and replace it to see if that is all that is wrong with the machine. Are you reading it correctly though? You should see an E1 error if thermistor is open. You may just have your meter on the wrong scale for reading the high resistance value of the thermistor.
There is a thermistor and a thermal fuse which are right next to each other. Which one are you refering to? A fault in either one would not prevent the motor from starting. The thermal fuse has two red wires attached to it, the thermistor has a red/wht and a black wire attached. Did you check the door switch?
Already pulled motor out of unit, belt is fine, belt switch was tested for continuity, works properly, this is a NO switch, so continuity only exists if the belt breaks, therefor the switch would close.
That is incorrect. With belt intact and in place, you should read continuity across switch. If belt breaks, switch opens. Gas valves will not work unless motor is running. The thermal fuse on this dryer is in the heat circuit, not the motor circuit.
Lay washer on it's front for access. The clutch shaft is at the front of the transmission so you can't get to it from the rear access panel. You can plug the transmission vent hole right behind the rear yoke support shaft to prevent oil leakage.
Clutch should be adjusted for 1/16" clearance. Looks like your model uses spacer washers versus an adjusting nut. You would add or remove washers to make adjustment. You would first start machine in agitation cycle so clutch is disengaged, or disengage manually by rotating main drive pulley CW until spin cam bar is all the way forward, and then check clearance between clutch lining and surface of drive pulley. Add/remove washers to adjust clearance. This of course requires pulling spin cam bar to drop clutch shaft.