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fairbank56

Member Since 17 Oct 2012
Online Last Active Today, 03:59 PM

#315155 Dryer keeps shutting off - Roper RES7745PQ0

Posted by fairbank56 on 10 March 2015 - 05:50 PM

  Sounds like a faulty timer.

 

Eric

 

Part number: AP3136147

Part number: AP3136147




#314988 maytag washer MAV5057AWW

Posted by fairbank56 on 07 March 2015 - 10:34 PM

  Well, that snubber ring acts like a lubricant and allows the tub support to move around on the washer baseplate. If the tub is somewhat out of balance, it's going to cause the tub support to want to move with respect to the baseplate. The springs and snubber allow this to happen. If the snubber is worn out or gummed up, instead of the tub support moving relative to the baseplate, the whole washer cabinet is going to move instead and it's going to walk.

 

Eric




#314678 whirlpool cabrio dryer model wed6200sw0

Posted by fairbank56 on 04 March 2015 - 08:29 AM

  If thermal fuse checks out, check the belt switch.

 

Eric




#314612 Kenmore dryer 11060942990

Posted by fairbank56 on 03 March 2015 - 01:34 PM

Thanks, Eric.  How'd you cross that model over to the correct tech sheet? That's a trick I need to know!

 

  Wiring diagrams and/or tech sheets are generally listed in the "Top and Console" parts diagrams on the searspartsdirect website. For this model, they show 3977696 as the tech sheet and also list 3398970 as the wiring diagram. 3398970 is clearly NOT the wiring diagram for this model.

 

Eric




#314521 Ge inverter motor board repair

Posted by fairbank56 on 02 March 2015 - 05:57 PM

  My understanding as to the problem with the mode shifter coil thermal fuse blowing, is that it is not due to a hardware failure on the inverter board. It was a firmware problem (the board is microprocessor controlled). During agitation cycle, the shifter solenoid is engaged. It takes 135vdc to engage the solenoid but then switches to 35vdc which is all that is required to hold the solenoid in. If the customer opened the lid at a certain time during the cycle, it would cause the inverter to apply the 135vdc for too long a period of time and this caused the coil to overheat and blow the thermal fuse. The replacement motors corrected the firmware error.

 

Eric




#314372 Maytag MAV6000AWW No cold. Replaced Valve. No dice.

Posted by fairbank56 on 28 February 2015 - 03:01 PM

  Well, don't know what else I can suggest without being there to troubleshoot the machine myself. Here's a partial wiring diagram of your machine showing the current path for cold wash with purple and blue wire disconnected and jumped together. Power is direct to the cold water valve with temp switch set to cold/cold. There should be no power to the hot water valve with temp at cold/cold unless the board is faulty or something is hooked up wrong. It should be simple to figure out why the cold water isn't working with your jumper in place. Just follow the diagram.

 

Eric

 

MAV6000coldwash.jpg




#313971 Whrilpool GSQ9669LWI stops and makes clicking sound

Posted by fairbank56 on 22 February 2015 - 10:42 PM

  That is the motor repeatedly cutting on/off and could be due to a faulty motor centrifugal switch, timer, speed select switch, faulty connection at motor connector or an open motor winding. Going to need a bit more information to narrow it down. When does the problem occur? What part of the cycle? Agitation, drain, spin? What speed selections? I assume it does not do this during drain right after agitation stops? During that 2 minute drain, the centrifugal switch and speed select switch are bypassed.

 

Eric




#313878 Roper RED4440VQ1 Dryer

Posted by fairbank56 on 21 February 2015 - 04:17 PM

  Right on. The grounded element was causing the dryer to overheat which blew the thermal fuse which killed power to the motor.

 

Eric




#313861 Maytag MAV6000AWW No cold. Replaced Valve. No dice.

Posted by fairbank56 on 21 February 2015 - 10:05 AM

  If your getting cold in rinse, then there is nothing wrong with the water inlet valve assembly or the hoses. Rinse cycle bypasses the temp control board so it sounds like a faulty control board but could be the timer. In wash fill, check for 120vac at the control board black wire. Also check between control board black wire and white wire for same 120vac to make sure you have neutral to the board. There should also be 120vac at the control board purple wire. If you have 120vac at the black wire but not the purple wire, then the temp switch is suspect.

 

Eric

 

Part number: AP4028021

Part number: AP4028021




#313855 Roper RED4440VQ1 Dryer

Posted by fairbank56 on 21 February 2015 - 08:03 AM

  I get what your saying about these timers but a faulty timer on a dryer that won't start simply cannot cause a heating element to conduct current unless the element is grounded or the motor switch is stuck in the run position. The timer is supposed to apply one leg of power to the element when it's on in a heating cycle and not supposed to when it's off and that's just what it's doing. My moneys on the motor since a stuck centrifugal switch would cause both of his symptoms and as you say, most problems are the result of one defective part and a defective timer alone cannot cause the heat element to come on.

 

  Here's the wiring diagram. He turns the timer on which applies L1 to one side of the element as highlighted. How can a defective timer apply L2 to the other side of the element? Only a closed motor switch can do that or if the element is grounded, you would have a current return path via that ground.

 

Eric

 

dryer.jpg




#313801 Roper RED4440VQ1 Dryer

Posted by fairbank56 on 19 February 2015 - 11:25 PM

  Explain how a faulty timer can cause the heat element to function when one job of the timer is to do exactly that. Report is that with timer off, no heat. With timer on in any heat cycle, heat element is on, regardless of motor switch. Can't be the timer. I agree, these are junk timers and they fail often but these symptoms are not an indication of timer failure.

 

  Another possibility is that the motor switch is stuck in the run position. This would prevent motor from starting and cause heat element to function with timer on in any heat cycle. Does the motor hum when operating the start switch? If so, this is the likely problem. If not, check the thermal fuse.

 

Eric




#313792 Roper RED4440VQ1 Dryer

Posted by fairbank56 on 19 February 2015 - 09:17 PM

  Heater element is grounded. As for not starting, check the thermal fuse.

 

Eric




#313791 Kenmore Dryer 110.66752500 heating element on even when motor off

Posted by fairbank56 on 19 February 2015 - 09:14 PM

  The heating element is grounded. Check resistance of heating element terminals to the metal heater box.

 

Eric




#313479 How to hook up test cord to 3951550 Whirlpool direct drive washer motor?

Posted by fairbank56 on 15 February 2015 - 07:31 PM

  Test cord neutral to motor white wire, jumper from motor white/black wire to motor yellow wire. Test cord hot side to motor blue wire and to motor terminal where harness red wire would connect. Place start capacitor in series with this wire.

 

Eric




#313150 Roper Waher RAS6233KQQ Full of Water Wont Drain

Posted by fairbank56 on 10 February 2015 - 10:22 PM

  Remove the cabinet and check the drain pump. Unclip the pump from the motor and pull it off the motor shaft with drain hoses still connected. See if washer will now agitate. If so, drain washer manually, remove hoses and check inside pump for obstruction.

 

Eric







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