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fairbank56

Member Since 17 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 05:34 PM

#278343 Maytag MTW5770TQ0 braking issues during spin

Posted by fairbank56 on 19 December 2013 - 05:55 PM

  Those are shipping pins that are in place when washer is delivered. A cord is pulled to release clips that hold them in place so they fall into the cups. Check the tub drive block. If it is worn, it can allow tub to continue spinning even when basket drive has been stopped by the brakes.

 

Eric




#278335 GE WASHER NO SPIN

Posted by fairbank56 on 19 December 2013 - 05:17 PM

  Sounds like water level pressure switch is stuck in full position. Open control panel and unplug hose from pressure switch. Will it start filling now? Will it spin? If so, open front panel, remove hose from tub air dome and clean gunk out of hose and air dome.

 

Eric




#278324 WWSE3160A0WW GE Washer

Posted by fairbank56 on 19 December 2013 - 02:45 PM

  You still have the retaining ring that holds the pulley onto the clutch shaft. Grab the clip on the bottom of the clutch with needle nose pliers and whack the pliers with a hammer to get it off. Then pull the pulley off the motor shaft. You might need a puller as they can get stuck on the motor shaft. Remove the retaining clip that holds the clutch to the pulley and remove the clutch. Now you can get the pulley welded back together. Your going to have to get that weld line nice and smooth, otherwise it's going to eat the belt up. Put it all back together and install the clip and you should be good to go. GE always says that the clip must be replaced but if you remove it like I suggested rather than trying to bend it to get it off, you can reuse it. Iv'e done it that way and never had a problem with the clip coming off.

 

Eric

 

This photo shows just the clutch shaft installed onto the motor shaft. The bottom clip holds the clutch to the motor shaft, the groove in the clutch shaft receives the retaining ring that holds the pulley to the clutch shaft.

 

GEclutch2.jpg




#278229 WWSE3160A0WW GE Washer

Posted by fairbank56 on 18 December 2013 - 10:04 PM

  The washer like part is the motor pulley. There was a clip on the bottom of the motor shaft that retains the pulley and clutch on the motor shaft. Look around for this clip. If the pulley is coming off but clutch remains on the motor shaft, then the other retaining clip that secures the clutch to the pulley is also missing. Need to see some photo's to be sure what's going on. Post them on a photo sharing site and post the link here. Here's a link for the clip if that's all you need but that clip shouldn't normally come off of there unless it's hitting the bottom panel of the washer or there's other problems with the clutch.

 

http://www.repaircli...WH1X2733/277940

 

Eric

 

  Here's a photo of the motor and pulley with clip on motor shaft.

 

gepulley.jpg




#278202 GE WASHER NO SPIN

Posted by fairbank56 on 18 December 2013 - 06:34 PM

  A faulty lid switch would prevent both agitation and spin on this model however the non-technical homeowner may consider no agitation and no spin, as "doesn't spin" :wink:

 

Eric




#278111 Kenmore washer won't agitate, spin or rinse, just ticks or hums

Posted by fairbank56 on 18 December 2013 - 08:55 AM

  Unplug washer, disconnect terminals from capacitor without touching any exposed metal on the wire terminals or capacitor terminals. Remove the capacitor from it's holder without touching those terminals. Take an insulated handle screwdriver and place the metal end of the screwdriver across the terminals of the capacitor for a few seconds to discharge any voltage accumulated on it. Inspect it for any damage such as bulging, cracks or melting. Does it have a bad odor? The capacitor may be faulty but the only way to check it properly is with a meter that has a capacitor test function. If the capacitor looks/smells ok and the terminals aren't burnt nor are the wiring terminals, it's probably ok. I think you have a bad wiring connection or faulty wire in the harness somewhere. You need a tech who is competent in electrical troubleshooting to figure this out. You can try replacing the capacitor but if that doesn't solve the problem for good, you need to call a tech.

 

http://www.repaircli...tNumber=8572717

 

Eric




#277832 What the crap is wrong with my Whirlpool Electric Dryer?

Posted by fairbank56 on 16 December 2013 - 08:25 PM

http://www.repaircli...0185970/1481699




#277826 Kenmore Washer model # 110.92578210

Posted by fairbank56 on 16 December 2013 - 07:50 PM

  Sounds like the lid switch. Try jumping it out. Lid switch on this model only affects drain and spin, not fill and agitate. You say you can get it to continue by playing with the timer. Does that mean it will drain and spin? If so, then yes, most likely the timer.

 

http://www.repaircli.../3946452/546881

 

Eric




#277822 What the crap is wrong with my Whirlpool Electric Dryer?

Posted by fairbank56 on 16 December 2013 - 07:17 PM

  With motor running the way you have it hooked up, you should have zero volts on both red wires at motor.

 

Eric




#277820 What the crap is wrong with my Whirlpool Electric Dryer?

Posted by fairbank56 on 16 December 2013 - 07:11 PM

  If you measured 120vac on both red wires with motor running, then the wire between the motor and L-2 (which you now have connected to neutral) is open.

 

Eric




#277788 Kenmore washer won't agitate, spin or rinse, just ticks or hums

Posted by fairbank56 on 16 December 2013 - 03:03 PM

  Check the connector at the motor. Look for burned/corroded wires/terminals, look for broken wires, check the connections at the motor thermal overload switch as well. Check the condition of the capacitor and it's connections. It is located on the back panel near the water inlet valve. Pull the pump off the motor and see if motor will run. Easiest way to do all this is to remove the cabinet and jump out the lid switch for testing puposes.

 

Eric




#277595 kenmore elite dryer starts automaticly

Posted by fairbank56 on 14 December 2013 - 03:19 PM

  On the dryer that you pulled the blue wire for testing, plug that blue wire back in and unplug one of the pink/black wires. Now turn dryer on, does it start by itself? If not, the problem is the control board, not the relay. You said you swapped the control board so I figured that was ruled out but maybe not. Did you get the boards back into the original dryer it came from?

 

Eric




#277593 kenmore elite dryer starts automaticly

Posted by fairbank56 on 14 December 2013 - 02:54 PM

  Motor relay is probably stuck closed. Relay is right next to the push to start switch. Disconnect one of the blue wires from the relay. If problem goes away, replace relay.

 

http://www.repaircli.../3405281/528722

 

Eric




#277578 What the crap is wrong with my Whirlpool Electric Dryer?

Posted by fairbank56 on 14 December 2013 - 09:06 AM

So the motor could operate well, but be interrupting the heat circuit by way of the centrifugal switch malfunctioning? Bad contact inside timer? All cycles are blowing cold.

 

There is absolutely no way to test either of these 2 components without power?

 

Thank you sir for your fast response.

 

  Yes on the first question. You can check continuity on the timer contacts between black and red and you can check continuity on the motor switch between the two red wires by operating the centrifugal mechanism manually or by applying 120vac across L-1 and neutral. Turn dryer on and you should also get 120vac at L-2 if motor switch is operating. These are just static tests by the way. Continuity tests can tell you if contacts are bad but not necessarily if they are good as you are only using the low voltage/current of your multimeter but in actual operation there will be over 20 amps through them and the contact can break down if they are faulty.

 

Eric




#277545 Kenmore 70 series washer leak

Posted by fairbank56 on 13 December 2013 - 07:58 PM

  With cabinet removed, set washer to fill and check for leaks around the water inlet valve assembly and hose from that assembly up to the tub inlet. If nothing found, let it fill a few inches and then switch to drain to check for leaks around pump and drain hoses. You will have to bypass the lid switch either by removing the switch and plugging into harness connector and operate manually or jump out the switch as per this video. It's ok to run all functions with cabinet removed.

 

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=XAnQ6Ovvnuc

 

Eric







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