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fairbank56

Member Since 17 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 10:08 PM

#277788 Kenmore washer won't agitate, spin or rinse, just ticks or hums

Posted by fairbank56 on 16 December 2013 - 03:03 PM

  Check the connector at the motor. Look for burned/corroded wires/terminals, look for broken wires, check the connections at the motor thermal overload switch as well. Check the condition of the capacitor and it's connections. It is located on the back panel near the water inlet valve. Pull the pump off the motor and see if motor will run. Easiest way to do all this is to remove the cabinet and jump out the lid switch for testing puposes.

 

Eric




#277595 kenmore elite dryer starts automaticly

Posted by fairbank56 on 14 December 2013 - 03:19 PM

  On the dryer that you pulled the blue wire for testing, plug that blue wire back in and unplug one of the pink/black wires. Now turn dryer on, does it start by itself? If not, the problem is the control board, not the relay. You said you swapped the control board so I figured that was ruled out but maybe not. Did you get the boards back into the original dryer it came from?

 

Eric




#277593 kenmore elite dryer starts automaticly

Posted by fairbank56 on 14 December 2013 - 02:54 PM

  Motor relay is probably stuck closed. Relay is right next to the push to start switch. Disconnect one of the blue wires from the relay. If problem goes away, replace relay.

 

http://www.repaircli.../3405281/528722

 

Eric




#277578 What the crap is wrong with my Whirlpool Electric Dryer?

Posted by fairbank56 on 14 December 2013 - 09:06 AM

So the motor could operate well, but be interrupting the heat circuit by way of the centrifugal switch malfunctioning? Bad contact inside timer? All cycles are blowing cold.

 

There is absolutely no way to test either of these 2 components without power?

 

Thank you sir for your fast response.

 

  Yes on the first question. You can check continuity on the timer contacts between black and red and you can check continuity on the motor switch between the two red wires by operating the centrifugal mechanism manually or by applying 120vac across L-1 and neutral. Turn dryer on and you should also get 120vac at L-2 if motor switch is operating. These are just static tests by the way. Continuity tests can tell you if contacts are bad but not necessarily if they are good as you are only using the low voltage/current of your multimeter but in actual operation there will be over 20 amps through them and the contact can break down if they are faulty.

 

Eric




#277545 Kenmore 70 series washer leak

Posted by fairbank56 on 13 December 2013 - 07:58 PM

  With cabinet removed, set washer to fill and check for leaks around the water inlet valve assembly and hose from that assembly up to the tub inlet. If nothing found, let it fill a few inches and then switch to drain to check for leaks around pump and drain hoses. You will have to bypass the lid switch either by removing the switch and plugging into harness connector and operate manually or jump out the switch as per this video. It's ok to run all functions with cabinet removed.

 

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=XAnQ6Ovvnuc

 

Eric




#277543 old maytag shreiks at end of cycle

Posted by fairbank56 on 13 December 2013 - 07:07 PM

 Brake lining is likely dried out. You can lubricate it by getting some oil up over the lip of the brake drum. A squirt gun type oiler works good for this as you can get the long nozzle in between the spokes of the pulley and up to the lip of the brake package. Two or three drops should do it, don't overdo it, just enough to stop the noise.

 

Eric




#277506 1992 Whirlpool CA2762XWN1 direct drive topload washer - agitation switches of...

Posted by fairbank56 on 13 December 2013 - 09:20 AM

  Runs with lid open, shouldn't do that, has someone bypassed the lid switch? I would check that. Time the on/off times of the motor. Does it occur always at the same time in the cycle? If so, looks like bad timer. If random, I would check connections at motor connector. For the no spin problem, you need to run it with cabinet off so you can observe what the clutch hub is doing.

 

Eric




#277420 Maytag Washer MAV2755AWW Noise

Posted by fairbank56 on 12 December 2013 - 11:51 AM

  Brake rotor is under 200lbs of pressure via brake spring. Special tool required to release. Workaround is to remove two of the stator screws and replace them with 1 1/2" long 10-24 screws. Then remove all other stator screws and then slowly back out the 10-24 screws to slowly release the spring.

 

Eric




#277418 Maytag Washer MAV2755AWW Noise

Posted by fairbank56 on 12 December 2013 - 11:31 AM

  Brake is not holding. Probably the lining on the rotor is worn. Replace brake rotor and snubber ring while your at it.

 

http://www.repaircli.../356714/1480293

 

http://www.repaircli...1002026/1055142

 

Eric




#277204 Kenmore series 70 agitates and pumps fine, weird spin

Posted by fairbank56 on 10 December 2013 - 10:34 PM

  Yes, readily available and easy to replace. You can confirm that this is most likely the problem by running in spin mode with cabinet removed (lid switch bypassed). Observe the clutch hub that is on top of the gearcase. If it is barely rotating like your tub is, then it's likely the problem.

 

http://www.repaircli...r/285362/470685

 

Eric




#277199 Kenmore series 70 agitates and pumps fine, weird spin

Posted by fairbank56 on 10 December 2013 - 10:17 PM

  Sounds like the spin gear (plastic) in the gearcase is stripped out and barely making contact with the spin pinion gear.

 

Eric




#277129 Finding correct model # for Kirkland Signature washer?

Posted by fairbank56 on 10 December 2013 - 03:17 PM

  As long as the washer is spinning normally at full speed and neutral drain is working (initial drain without spin), then I wouldn't worry about replacing anything else. Washer is about 10 years old. Do not use 30 weight motor oil. You probably didn't lose enough oil to worry about. Level should be just below level of lower housing with cover off. If you do need to add oil, I would only use Whirlpool oil as it's never a good idea to mix oils. That oil is expensive so your other option would be to completely drain the old oil, disassemble and clean everything and then replenish with either 60 weight non-detergent motor oil or 80w-90 gear oil (GL-1 thru GL-4, NOT GL-5).

 

Generic Whirlpool direct drive service manual: https://secured.whir.../$FILE/L-55.pdf

 

Parts manual for your washer: http://shared.whirlp...t - 8180087.pdf

 

Whirlpool gearcase oil: http://www.repaircli...Oil/350572/3017

 

Eric




#277081 Finding correct model # for Kirkland Signature washer?

Posted by fairbank56 on 10 December 2013 - 09:20 AM

  Most likely a direct drive model. If so, you would need to replace the gearcase cover seal and spin pinion seal. Use Loctite 515 to reseal the gearcase cover.

 

http://www.repaircli.../3349985/519811

 

http://www.repaircli...eal/356427/3176

 

Eric




#276763 Dryer timer only advances in timed dry

Posted by fairbank56 on 07 December 2013 - 07:57 PM

  That's true on this particular model but that is not a standard as it depends on the model.

 

Eric




#276624 Kenmore Direct Drive Washer top load Violent Shake md. 110.29622801

Posted by fairbank56 on 06 December 2013 - 07:32 PM

  Check the other 3 pads. There's 3 on top of the base assembly that the suspension plate sits on and 3 on top of the suspension plate that the tub support rides on. Check for a worn drive block.

 

Eric







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