There are no transducers sensing the clothes. It's all based on timing. In auto sensing, it fills until the low level switch opens. The amount of time it takes to get to this level depends on how much clothes are in the basket. The more clothes, the longer it takes til the switch opens because the clothes absorb more water as it's coming in. The control board uses the time it takes til the switch opens to determine how much more water to add. It's a joke really as it doesn't always work very well. I hate these stupid washers.
All components having proper voltages and motor doesn't run, pump doesn't run and washer won't fill doesn't jive. Things are clearly not getting proper voltage. Do you see the blinking error LED on the inverter board above the motor?
Applianceman97: This model is a Hydrowave toploader. Does not have a door lock nor any diagnostic mode.
Most likely the lid switch. That's the first thing to check. Washer will fill with a faulty lid switch but drive motor will not operate. First, check for loose screws on the left side lid hinge. This hinge operates the hidden lid switch and if loose, it will not work. If that's not the problem, then open the control panel to test or jump out the lid switch. To open the control panel, remove the screws at the back of each control panel end cap, pull panel forward and rotate back over the back panel. Lid switch is on the left side.
That model came out in 2011. As to whether it's an HE model is debatable. GE marketed that model as a "traditional" model as opposed to their "HE" models. The typical HE top load has a wash plate versus traditional agitator, uses a very high speed spin and uses reduced water levels. Your model uses the traditional GE drive train that was used in most of their models produced from 1995 to 2006. It does not have a very high speed spin. It uses a traditional agitator however it does use a low rinse level, no spin between wash and rinse and minimal agitation time during rinse. I have a 2002 GE top loader that uses full rinse level, spins between wash and rinse and fully agitates during rinse wash cycle. For a large load, I use 4-5 tablespoons of tide detergent and have no problem. That is actually less than what is recommended to use on the detergent bottle but I have a water softener in my water supply. Since your model doesn't spin between wash and rinse, and has minimal agitation during rinse, you might want to try a reduced amount of detergent and see what happens.
If you have zero volts on both sides of the element then both legs are coming to the element. In that case, your most likely scenario is that the element, when cool, will show resistance, but when heating up, will separate at where ever it's broken.
Incorrect. If both legs are coming to the element, you would have 120vac to ground at either element terminal and 240vac across the terminals, regardless if the element is broken or not.
Check your motor switch. Check your power cord and connections at power cord terminal block.
It's not just GE. The government thinks we are saving so much energy and water with their restrictions but they don't realize how many people are running extra wash cycles to get their clothes clean and extra rinse cycles to get the soap out, and the restrictions are going to get tighter and tighter. It's ridiculous. Your best option is to get an older model and keep repairing it as needed.
These two models are the same. The only difference is the front panel. The original panel for the GC model does not have the GE logo on it. Otherwise, they are identical. There is no extra rinse switch shown for either, the wiring diagrams are the same and do not show an extra rinse option. Extra rinse requires two things, a switch to select it and a timer that supports it.
That's a temperature switch. This model uses the new type of hidden pressure switch. The front panel level control does not control the pressure switch directly as in traditional types. It selects which of the three pressure switches within the pressure switch to use. You should be able to adjust the levels using the adjustment screws.
Where are you seeing this extra switch for the GC model? To get a full rinse fill. There is a violet wire coming from the water level pressure switch to the timer. At the timer, it connects to terminal R1 or R17 and there is a jumper wire from R1 to R17. R1 is at an outer corner of the plug, R17 is near the middle. If the wire from the pressure switch goes to R17 and then jumps to R1, just cut that jumper. If the wire goes to R1 first and then jumps from R1 to R17, cut both wires at R1 and splice them together, leaving R1 disconnected. I don't think there's anything you can do to add an extra rinse and you can't do anything about the short rinse agitation cycle.
Sounds like you may have a bad capacitor. Pin 6 is to the CW winding, pin 9 is neutral so I don't know how your reading 120vac there. Pin 3 is to the CCW winding but it is normal to read 120vac at each pin (3 and 6). Both windings of the motor are always energized. The difference is that in one direction, one winding is used as the main run winding and the other is used as a start/run winding via the capacitor. The roles are reversed to reverse direction of motor rotation. Capacitor failures are common in these washers. Another possibility which is a common failure is the coil of wire used as an inductor in series with the capacitor. Check for a broken wire where the wire ties are.
What is part number 3560001092 Thermostat? It has an operating range of 50-260 degrees as printed on the back.
Your suggesting that it is temp feedback from the Thermistor. OK, thats worth a try.
That is the hi limit thermostat. That is not a temperature range. It means the thermostat will open at 260 degrees and then close again at 210 degrees (260 minus 50 = 210).
Also from everything I have read, the Temp in the dryer is controlled by the Circuit board by feeding voltage to the "operating thermostat" a small amount of voltage to "trick" the thermostat in thinking the temp is higher than actual. Thereby controlling temp with info feed back from the thermostat.
That is how some dryers work (not exactly as you have worded it, but close), but it is not how yours works.
Monitor the voltage to ground at the hi limit thermostat (blue wire that goes to the burner). You should read 120vac. If you still have voltage there when the burner cuts off, the problem is not the control board or thermistor. It's something to do with the gas valve.
If the thermistor is bad then the power should not flow at all to the burner unit according to everything I have read.
That is incorrect. The thermistor is not in the burner circuit. You don't test the thermistor with a continuity check. The thermistor is a resistor whose value depends upon it's temperature. It should read 10 thousand ohms at 77 degrees. The control board monitors the value of the thermistor and uses this to determine air temperature. The question has now been asked twice, does this problem occur during timed dry cycle?