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Member Since 17 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 03:47 PM

#305168 Kenmore electric dryer Model 11086983110 not running after motor replacement

Posted by fairbank56 on 08 October 2014 - 06:54 PM

  The thermostat heater has no affect on the motor circuit. The purpose of the heater is to heat the thermostat when a low heat is selected. When a lower than max heat setting is used, the thermostat heater gets a higher voltage across it and produces heat. This basically makes the operating thermostat "think" that the dryer is hotter than it actually is and it will cycle the heat off earlier causing the overall temp of the dryer to be lower. The lower you set the heat setting, the higher the voltage across the thermostat heater and the hotter it gets causing the operating thermostat to cycle earlier still.



#304708 Kenmore Washer 110.81167110 - Agitator spins too fast

Posted by fairbank56 on 02 October 2014 - 08:30 PM

  As long as the neutral drain transmission fits, agitator shaft is same length, and it functions ok, it's very easy to disable the neutral drain function. Just remove the transmission cover, remove the spin gear, remove the metal weighted latch from the neutral drain plate and put the spin gear back on and reseal the cover. Now you have a spin drain transmission.


  With your current transmission, the problem is most likely a failing part on the agitator shaft that controls the engagement/disengagement of the agitate gear. You can buy the shaft that includes all associated parts. I would first tear into your transmission and make sure the connecting rack and shifter are ok.


  Here is a link to a Whirlpool LA3400XMW0 parts manual which has the same transmission as your model. Page 19 and 20 show the transmission parts breakdown and part number list.




Part number: AP3132859

Part number: AP3132859

#304601 kenmore washer 110.26902691 clicks as it agitates in slow and medium speed bu...

Posted by fairbank56 on 01 October 2014 - 11:27 AM

  Agree with Willie. On this model, the motor switch does not select motor speed, it just redirects power back up to the timer after the motor starts. From the timer, power goes to the speed select switch and then to the motor winding based on speed selected by the user. I don't ever recall seeing or hearing of a Whirlpool direct drive machine with a bad motor winding. Not that it couldn't happen, but would be extremely rare and your saying it does it in medium and slow so two bad windings??? Timer doesn't select speed on this model either, except for drain which is high speed direct (bypasses speed switch), so if it's working fine in high speed and you switch it to medium or slow and it starts cutting on/off, then it's most likely the speed switch.



#304381 Kenmore Gas Dryer 110.74972300

Posted by fairbank56 on 28 September 2014 - 07:12 PM

  If you measured 120vac between relay COM and NO with dryer on, then the relay is open. Faulty relay or evenheat control board. Check for 48vdc across relay red/white wires. If good, then replace the relay.



#304156 kenmore washer 110.26902691 clicks as it agitates in slow and medium speed bu...

Posted by fairbank56 on 25 September 2014 - 01:29 PM

  If it's not doing it in high speed agitation or in spin modes, then sounds like a faulty speed select switch.




Part number: AP3097818

Part number: AP3097818

#303967 Kenmore VMW 110.28002011 drive pulley stripped - how to remove drive nut

Posted by fairbank56 on 23 September 2014 - 05:55 PM

  Have someone hold the agitator and basket to prevent transmission input shaft from rotating.



#303489 Kenmore Washer 110.92060120

Posted by fairbank56 on 17 September 2014 - 09:16 AM

  Check the motor connector. Unplug it and check for corroded/burned terminals in the connector and the motor receptacle. Pull on the wires to the connector to look for broken wire. Also check the connections at the thermal overload looking for the same conditions. With cabinet off and lid switch bypassed, set washer to spin and move the motor harness wires around, put pressure on the connector, trying to make it work as it is likely due to a faulty connection in this area.





#303297 WTW4950 SPIN ISSUE

Posted by fairbank56 on 14 September 2014 - 11:52 AM

  If that were the case it would be making a racket with the spin tube spinning but basket not, but then, he didn't say if it was overly noisy so could be, but then, why the speed sensor fault?



#303292 WTW4950 SPIN ISSUE

Posted by fairbank56 on 14 September 2014 - 11:00 AM

  So, in spin mode, the basket does not spin but the wash plate does. Either the control board is not sending power to the shift actuator motor to cause it to change position, the shift actuator is faulty or the splutch is broken. The drive motor is obviously going into spin mode and driving the gearcase agitator input shaft but it's not engaging the basket which is caused by the shift actuator changing position to engage the splutch to the drive pulley.



#303027 Whirlpool elec dryer runs on low heat only

Posted by fairbank56 on 10 September 2014 - 03:10 PM

  Probably a wiring issue. Every time you go messing with the wiring harness, changing motor/changing start switch/changing timer, it works briefly. Anyway, good luck with the new dryer and come back again if you ever need assistance. This is the best appliance forum on the Internet, hands down.



#302901 Maytag dryer mde2400ayw warm air but not hot

Posted by fairbank56 on 09 September 2014 - 08:40 AM

Testing from the control board, the way it is set up, there is no way to tell if one element is burned out or not.  Both coils in the element are 1000 watts each and are always on at the same time so checking from just the two heater wires at the control board will show the same ohm reading if both heating coils are good or either one is burned out, both conditions will give same ohm reading.  Only condition that would show up is both coils burnt out.


  You can check from the control board. The coils are in parallel. Normally, you should read about 26 ohms. If one coil is open, then you would read about 52 ohms. It is still possible however, that one coil has a break in it. It may be making contact and reads good with resistance test but still fails under high current when 240vac is placed across it.



#302839 whirlpool lsq8500JQq2 washer fills but wont agitate or spin

Posted by fairbank56 on 08 September 2014 - 06:02 PM

  Wiring diagram is available in the downloads section. Same diagram for JQ1 AND JQ2.





#302818 Whirlpool Washer WTW4800XQ2 tub doesn't spin and seems to have dropped an...

Posted by fairbank56 on 08 September 2014 - 01:34 PM

  If the tabs sheared off the drive tube, then you must replace the transmission. The drive tube is an integral part of the transmission. The drive block must engage those tabs. The slit in the drive block is to allow it to squeeze tight onto the drive tube when you tighten the spanner nut. The inner tub, drive block and drive tube are all locked together and rotate together as a unit. The top of the inner tub is a balance ring that has fluid in it, that's what you hear sloshing around and is normal.




Part number: AP5617591

Part number: AP5617591

#302816 Kenmore 110.29842991 Series 60 Clothes Washer

Posted by fairbank56 on 08 September 2014 - 01:20 PM

  No noise at all from drive motor? Check motor wiring harness connector. Unplug connector and check terminals for corrosion/burning/melting, pull on wires to make sure none are broken. Check connections at motor thermal overload. White wire from motor wiring receptacle goes to one side of thermal overload, other wire goes into motor. If there is noise from motor like it wants to start, unclip and pull drain pump off the motor shaft as something could be in it jamming the motor. Also check wire connections at capacitor on the motor (red wires).



#302757 Whirlpool elec dryer runs on low heat only

Posted by fairbank56 on 07 September 2014 - 03:00 PM

  Not meant as an insult, just saying that you have no experience with electrical troubleshooting and trying to "teach" it to someone with no experience over an internet forum is generally a waste of time and an exercise in frustration. Electrical troubleshooting is an art that even most "appliance techs" don't know how to do. Your symptoms are a bit strange since the original problem initially went away after replacing the motor and then the new problem initially went away when you replaced the start switch. I understand your frustration at having to parts swap but it's either that, or find a competent troubleshooting tech or maybe someone else here is willing to go back and forth with you on the troubleshooting process. It's not just a matter of simple instructions. It's a thought process, reading the wiring diagram, taking readings, interpreting the results and continuing the process based on those results. You can also get hurt, 240vac is lethal and far more dangerous to mess around with than 120vac if you don't  know what your doing. As I explained, jumping out the timer is an easy way to rule it out as the problem but here again, you probably don't have the necessary wire, terminals, tools and knowledge of technique to make the proper jumpers.



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