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fairbank56

Member Since 17 Oct 2012
Online Last Active Today, 09:17 PM

#295846 Need Help Troubleshooting Kenmore 110.82891120 - Won't Advance Through Cy...

Posted by fairbank56 on 07 June 2014 - 05:33 PM

  Sounds like you got another faulty timer. The control board is an auto temp control and only controls the water inlet valves. May be able to help further if you provide a copy of the wiring diagram. You would have to upgrade to apprentice to post it directly here, otherwise post it somewhere else and provide the link to it.

 

Eric




#295785 Whirpool "senseon" GGW9868KQ3 dryer will not start! HELP!

Posted by fairbank56 on 07 June 2014 - 08:28 AM

 I'm getting 120volts at the plug between the black and white wires. 

  Power to the motor is not from the black and white wires, it's the blue (from belt switch) and white wires. The burner cannot come on unless the motor is running as neutral to burner is via motor centrifugal switch. There are two relays on the control board, one for heat, one for the motor. They should be labeled "heat" and "motor", Heat relay has the two wires attached to it. Relays are soldered in. You can rule out relay and control board by unplugging the 5 pin connector next to the relays and jumping pin 5 to pin 4 (black to light blue), dryer should start as soon as you plug it in if door is shut and door switch is ok.

 

Eric

 

WhirlpoolDryerMotorWiring.jpg




#295747 RoperElecDryerRED4440VQ1 No Start

Posted by fairbank56 on 06 June 2014 - 01:08 PM

  Read again, he fixed it.

 

  Yes, those timers are absolute junk, fail all the time.

 

  Good job and thanks for the info.

 

Eric




#295475 Whirpool "senseon" GGW9868KQ3 dryer will not start! HELP!

Posted by fairbank56 on 04 June 2014 - 05:54 PM

  I suspect your not testing the thermistor properly. You don't do a continuity check on it, you check it's resistance and your meter must be set for the proper scale, depending on the type of meter your using, for measuring resistance around 10K ohms. The E2 error means thermistor shorted. You should never do resistance or continuity checks on circuits under power.

 

Eric




#295473 kenmore washer lid locks and that's all

Posted by fairbank56 on 04 June 2014 - 05:16 PM

The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum

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#295470 Whirpool "senseon" GGW9868KQ3 dryer will not start! HELP!

Posted by fairbank56 on 04 June 2014 - 04:57 PM

  I wouldn't recommend doing that. The thermistor has a nominal value of 10K ohms but varies according to temperature. It should read about 12K ohms at 70° and about 3K ohms at 130°. It is possible that the control board won't allow motor operation due to the open thermistor. Since it's bad, just go ahead and replace it to see if that is all that is wrong with the machine. Are you reading it correctly though? You should see an E1 error if thermistor is open. You may just have your meter on the wrong scale for reading the high resistance value of the thermistor.

 

Eric

 

Part number: AP3919451

Part number: AP3919451




#295430 Kenmore 70 series # 82673110 not emptying

Posted by fairbank56 on 04 June 2014 - 07:18 AM

Sounds like a faulty timer. Timer must cause motor to stop and then start again in reverse direction for drain/spin. Does washer just agitate during the entire cycle or what?

 

Eric

 

Part number: AP3099835

Part number: AP3099835




#295427 Whirpool "senseon" GGW9868KQ3 dryer will not start! HELP!

Posted by fairbank56 on 04 June 2014 - 06:54 AM

  There is a thermistor and a thermal fuse which are right next to each other. Which one are you refering to? A fault in either one would not prevent the motor from starting. The thermal fuse has two red wires attached to it, the thermistor has a red/wht  and a black wire attached. Did you check the door switch?

 

Eric




#295331 Whirpool "senseon" GGW9868KQ3 dryer will not start! HELP!

Posted by fairbank56 on 03 June 2014 - 03:11 PM

Already pulled motor out of unit, belt is fine, belt switch was tested for continuity, works properly, this is a NO switch, so continuity only exists if the belt breaks, therefor the switch would close. 

  That is incorrect. With belt intact and in place, you should read continuity across switch. If belt breaks, switch opens.  Gas valves will not work unless motor is running. The thermal fuse on this dryer is in the heat circuit, not the motor circuit.

 

Eric




#295008 Old Skol Whirlpool LAF5500W1 washer rebuild

Posted by fairbank56 on 30 May 2014 - 05:56 PM

  Lay washer on it's front for access. The clutch shaft is at the front of the transmission so you can't get to it from the rear access panel. You can plug the transmission vent hole right behind the rear yoke support shaft to prevent oil leakage.

 

Eric




#294944 Old Skol Whirlpool LAF5500W1 washer rebuild

Posted by fairbank56 on 30 May 2014 - 07:31 AM

  Submitted belt replacement instructions to download section. http://appliantology...t-instructions/

 

  Clutch should be adjusted for 1/16" clearance. Looks like your model uses spacer washers versus an adjusting nut. You would add or remove washers to make adjustment. You would first start machine in agitation cycle so clutch is disengaged, or disengage manually by rotating main drive pulley CW until spin cam bar is all the way forward, and then check clearance between clutch lining and surface of drive pulley. Add/remove washers to adjust clearance. This of course requires pulling spin cam bar to drop clutch shaft.

 

Eric




#294875 Old Skol Whirlpool LAF5500W1 washer rebuild

Posted by fairbank56 on 29 May 2014 - 12:31 PM

  If you

 

 Resecure gearcase bolts and spacer and reinstall mounting brackets.

 

  If you do it that way, before reinstalling the support brackets, tighten transmission bolts finger tight only, set machine upright, then tighten bolts securely and then lay back down to install support brackets. This is to allow proper alignment with the centerpost bearing as per Whirlpool instructions. That's why I prefer pulling the cam bar and lowering the clutch shaft instead of lowering transmission. Don't have to loosen all transmission bolts, don't have to worry about losing the ball for the spin tube support bearing, don't have to worry about damaging centerpost or spin tube seals.

 

Eric




#294835 Old Skol Whirlpool LAF5500W1 washer rebuild

Posted by fairbank56 on 29 May 2014 - 06:48 AM

  To replace the belt, you must also remove the three baseplate to transmission supports. The procedure of pulling the spin cam bar and lowering the clutch shaft to gain clearance over the clutch shaft as suggested is one of two methods for belt replacement. I have the belt replacement instructions if you need them. Is the belt in bad shape?

 

Eric




#294830 GE WPRB8050D1WW, fills, agitates, won't spin and drain...

Posted by fairbank56 on 29 May 2014 - 06:14 AM

 How can I get a wiring diagram for this machine

 

 

The mini manual with wiring diagram is available here but you will have to upgrade to apprentice to be able to download it. It does not contain a schematic for the control board and you will never find one for that.

 

Eric




#294249 GE WJRR4170E4WW Won't spin -- will agitate

Posted by fairbank56 on 21 May 2014 - 04:10 PM

With the belt off the transmission, how hard should it be to spin the tub?  As I spin it sounds like something is rotating or sliding across another surface, louder but similar to when you press your knuckles in paper and drag them.  

 

  You can't spin the tub, you have to rotate the pulley in order for the brake to release properly. It should be relatively easy to rotate but you must keep it going by hand or else the brake will immediately re-apply. As you rotate the pulley, the dogs on the cam should rotate towards the dogs on the brake hub causing the brake hub to lift up from the cam (gap should open between the two) which lifts the brake drum to release the brake. One common problem here is the grease drying up in this mechanism. The top of the cam and bottom of the brake hub have tapered grooves in them with ball bearings in them. As the cam rotates, the balls ride in the tapered grooves to the shallow part of the grooves so that the balls lift the brake hub upwards. If the grease dries up and/or if it's dirty/gummy in there, the balls won't move and the brake won't fully release.

 

Eric

 

GEspinmode.jpg







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