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fairbank56

Member Since 17 Oct 2012
Online Last Active Today, 09:38 AM

#302637 Whirlpool elec dryer runs on low heat only

Posted by fairbank56 on 05 September 2014 - 12:18 PM

  Yes, I understand the difference. I'm a troubleshooter, not a parts swapper but if you were an experienced troubleshooter, you wouldn't need us. There is a way to troubleshoot the timer dynamically, but I'm not even going to try and explain that here and the trouble with simple static continuity tests is that during those tests, your only using the very low voltage and current supplied by the multimeter while in actual dryer operation, there is very high current being drawn through the timer contacts. In other words, it can check good with continuity test but still fail under load. One way to rule the timer out is to jump terminals A, B, and C together and terminals T2 and S but you must use a proper jumper with tight connections and 16 gauge wire. Otherwise, just try replacing the timer. It can be returned even if you used it. If the dryer shuts off even in air fluff cycle (no heat) then you only need to jump B and C together and T2 and S to rule the timer out.

 

Eric

 

BTW, it is still possible that it is the thermal fuse. The internal connection between fuse and the external wire terminal can be intermittent. I've seen this. Once again, it checks good with multimeter but fails when full motor current is drawn through it. You can jump that out as well for testing only.

 

Unplug dryer before jumping any timer terminals. Terminal C is hot all the time.




#302622 Whirlpool elec dryer runs on low heat only

Posted by fairbank56 on 05 September 2014 - 10:17 AM

  Replace the timer. This model has one of those JUNK timers in it. They fail all the time. It can be returned if it doesn't fix the problem.

 

Eric

 

Part number: AP4411360

Part number: AP4411360




#302513 Whirlpool water valve part#W10342320 on Maytag MVWB850YW1

Posted by fairbank56 on 03 September 2014 - 08:07 PM

  Tech sheet may be wrong, new valves may have different solenoids. Doesn't matter, they function on 120vac. New valve assembly should work fine.

 

Eric




#302473 WGD5900SW0 Whirpool Gas Dryer too hot at Exhaust

Posted by fairbank56 on 03 September 2014 - 12:17 PM

  Doesn't have a cycling thermostat. This model has electronic control and uses a thermistor for temperature control.

 

Eric

 

Part number: AP3919451

Part number: AP3919451




#302360 Roper Washer RAS7233JQO agitates, spins, won't drain

Posted by fairbank56 on 01 September 2014 - 08:11 PM


In fact, this Roper looks identical to that Whirlpool.  Go figure.

 

 

Mikey P.

 

That's because it is a Whirlpool like many other names including Maytag, Estate, Crosley, Kenmore, KitchenAid,  Admiral, Kirkland, Inglis, Amana and other's I'm sure.

 

Eric




#302330 Kenmore 110.28932791 - Spin Cycle

Posted by fairbank56 on 01 September 2014 - 12:06 PM

  Could be the timer or the speed switch. Jump out red/blue wire to blue wire on back of speed switch to rule that out. If it still does it, it's the timer. Same timer contact is used for all spin speed selections.

 

Eric




#302214 GE Washer WCSR4170G1WW poor was quality

Posted by fairbank56 on 30 August 2014 - 11:03 AM

  Faulty mode shifter.

 

Eric

 

Part number: AP4380186

Part number: AP4380186




#302209 GE Washer WCSR4170G1WW poor was quality

Posted by fairbank56 on 30 August 2014 - 10:12 AM

  The tub is not supposed to go back and forth during agitation. If it does, then the mode shifter coil is likely failed open. Take front panel off washer and check error code LED on the right side of the inverter board above the motor. If it flashes 4 times and pauses, then repeats, then it's a bad mode shifter.

 

Eric




#302197 Whirlpool Washer Model #WTW57ESVW1 It Only Spins!

Posted by fairbank56 on 30 August 2014 - 08:20 AM

  Power to water valves comes directly from the load sense switch. Check voltage into the switch at the 3-pin connector. Should have 120vac between violet and white with timer on in wash fill.

 

Eric




#302153 DBXR463EG1WW Dryer Wont Start- switch stuck

Posted by fairbank56 on 29 August 2014 - 06:51 PM

  Check the door switch. Does drum lamp come on with door open? With door closed, should have continuity between COM and NO on switch. Unplug dryer and with timer on, check for continuity between timer terminals B and C. If all good, check for continuity between timer terminal C and start switch terminal 4 (brown wire). This checks the hi limit thermostat. On the start switch, you should normally have continuity between terminals 3 and 4 (brown wires) and between 3/4 to 2 (red wire) when you engage switch.

 

Eric




#302101 kenmore dryer model 11064842400 heats up but wont start.

Posted by fairbank56 on 29 August 2014 - 07:32 AM

  Thermal fuse and thermal cutoff are two different things. Thermal fuse is in motor circuit, not heat circuit. If thermal cutoff is blown, there is no power to the heat coil so even if it is grounded, it won't come on unless the motor heat switch is stuck closed and if that was stuck closed, the heat coil would be on all the time regardless if timer is on or not.

 

Eric




#302081 kenmore dryer model 11064842400 heats up but wont start.

Posted by fairbank56 on 28 August 2014 - 09:51 PM

  Sounds like you at least have a faulty timer. Heat should not come on in air dry. Also, faulty timer contacts can prevent motor from starting and the noise you hear in the timer when trying to start the motor may be contact arcing. You need to check to see if the heater element is grounded and/or the motor switch is faulty.

 

Eric

 

Part number: AP3100522

Part number: AP3100522




#302069 kenmore dryer model 11064842400 heats up but wont start.

Posted by fairbank56 on 28 August 2014 - 08:14 PM

  If the thermal cutoff was blown, then there would be no power to the heat coil. Sounds like you have multiple problems. Heat coil coming on when just timer is turned on could be a grounded heat element but that wouldn't prevent motor from starting. Heat in air fluff indicates a bad timer. Does the motor hum at all when you press the start button?

 

Eric




#301981 Maytag Bravos Dryer w/ Steam MEDB800VQ0 ~F50 & No Start

Posted by fairbank56 on 27 August 2014 - 06:28 PM

  Hard to mistake them since the fuse reads 0 ohms while the inlet thermistor reads a nominal 50k ohms and outlet thermistor 10k ohms. I do hear of a lot of diy'ers that think they have bad thermistors because they do "continuity" checks on them instead of checking their resistances.

 

Eric




#301966 Maytag Bravos Dryer w/ Steam MEDB800VQ0 ~F50 & No Start

Posted by fairbank56 on 27 August 2014 - 03:05 PM

  Does the start/pause button work as per Diagnostic: Console Buttons and Indicators test on page 1? If so do you get 120vac at control board P9-1 (blue wire) when start button is pressed in diagnostic mode? If no, check neutral to control board P8-3 and P8-4 via door switch. If good, looks like bad control board. If you do get 120vac to the blue wire and thermal fuse is good, problem could be belt switch or a problem with the neutral circuit to the motor. Replacing water valve was a waste. It can't operate unless the motor is running as motor switch provides neutral to the valve.

 

  Do you have the machine now to troubleshoot or are you done on this one?

 

Eric







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