Yes, I understand the difference. I'm a troubleshooter, not a parts swapper but if you were an experienced troubleshooter, you wouldn't need us. There is a way to troubleshoot the timer dynamically, but I'm not even going to try and explain that here and the trouble with simple static continuity tests is that during those tests, your only using the very low voltage and current supplied by the multimeter while in actual dryer operation, there is very high current being drawn through the timer contacts. In other words, it can check good with continuity test but still fail under load. One way to rule the timer out is to jump terminals A, B, and C together and terminals T2 and S but you must use a proper jumper with tight connections and 16 gauge wire. Otherwise, just try replacing the timer. It can be returned even if you used it. If the dryer shuts off even in air fluff cycle (no heat) then you only need to jump B and C together and T2 and S to rule the timer out.
BTW, it is still possible that it is the thermal fuse. The internal connection between fuse and the external wire terminal can be intermittent. I've seen this. Once again, it checks good with multimeter but fails when full motor current is drawn through it. You can jump that out as well for testing only.
Unplug dryer before jumping any timer terminals. Terminal C is hot all the time.