Probably the belt switch. Check continuity on it or jump it out. Could be the motor switch. That switch disconnects the start winding after motor is running and then applies power continuously to the run winding via the belt switch.
Disregard the video associated with this part as it does not apply.
Clean the moisture sensing bars in the drum and the area between them. If they are shorting out due to gunk buildup, the timer will not advance. If it still won't work, disconnect wiring to sensor bars and try auto dry again. If timer still does not advance, replace circuit board inside control panel.
Why are you starting a new thread, you already posted about this dryer. When dryer was running before but timer was not advancing, was that in auto dry cycle or timed dry? If it won't advance in auto dry but does in timed dry, either the operating thermostat is not cycling or the heater coil is grounded (assuming you do have heat at all). As to why it won't operate at all now? Maybe you got a bad timer or got something hooked up wrong. Check for power to the dryer, double check the thermal fuse.
New transmission, $213 (APP price), new bearing and some screws, less than $20. The difference in labor is drilling out the top half of the housing, replacing the bearing in that top half and screwing it back together. Takes about 1/2 an hour. Your not actually into the gearcase. The gearcase where the planetary gear set is located is sandwiched between the to halves of the outer metal housing and doesn't need to be opened. Definitely worthwhile for an experienced DIY'er to attempt. Up to you as an appliance tech if you want to do this sort of thing. This is a relatively common problem with these VMW's. The tub seal leaks and the water goes directly into that top bearing. The water does not get into the gearcase.
Don't give up so easily. Spanner wrench is only $16. Drive block is $15. Problem may be something else entirely but this is far less than what you will pay to call in a pro. Drive block can be returned if that isn't the problem. I suppose you could return the wrench as well but you might want to keep it anyway.
This is a VMW washer, not a Fisher/Paykel direct drive design. The upper bearing can be replaced in the VMW but I am not aware of any video's on it. You must remove the transmission from the washer and drill out the rivets to separate the two halves of the outer transmission housing. Then knock the old top bearing out and install a new one. Use self tapping screws or bolts/nuts to secure the outer transmission housing back together.
The only way the heater coil can be powered with door open (motor off) is if the motor heat circuit switch is stuck closed, the wire between the heater coil terminal and motor connector is shorted to ground or the heat coil is touching ground.
Better to replace. These timers used on low end Whirlpool models (roper, estate...etc.) are junk. A very similar one is used on their low end dryers. They fail often. We don't try to fix them. Buy one from APP and you at least have a one year warranty on it.
Probably needs a new clutch. This is a direct drive machine, no belts. Check the inside of the cabinet a few inches above the floor. If you see a line of oil there, you should replace the transmission cover shaft seal as oil can get into the clutch housing causing it to slip and not spin fast enough.
Could be that the motor switch for the heat circuit is stuck closed. Unplug motor connector. If problem goes away, you would need to replace the motor. This is an important safety device to kill the heat if motor quits running while dryer is heating.