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fairbank56

Member Since 17 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 08:03 PM

#285580 Maytag Top Loader Thrust Bearing Install

Posted by fairbank56 on 22 February 2014 - 10:39 AM

  Use a small screwdriver to get into the groove and pry down on shaft while inserting clip. If necessary, you can also file an angle on the tips of one side of the clip so it's easier to get started. Check alignment marks after installing to determine if correct washer is installed.

 

Eric




#285570 Agitating agitator problems

Posted by fairbank56 on 22 February 2014 - 08:52 AM

  Audio and videos are working for me. It's quite obvious to me that the problem is that the agitate gear is not fully engaged with the agitator shaft when the rack is moving it in one direction. That's the only way the agitator shaft can be going in one direction only. The agitate gear cannot go round and round within the confines of the rack so it is being moved back and forth normally, it's just not engaging the shaft in both directions. A problem I've seen several times is when the ramps in the cam parts wear causing the agitate gear to not fully disengage but causes the same type of noise when in spin mode because the splines inside the gear are hitting the splines on the agitator shaft. Iv'e never seen or heard of the issue you are having but your gearcase is very old (30 years) and has a different style agitator shaft and gear.

 

Eric




#285504 Roper washer RTW43405SQ0

Posted by fairbank56 on 21 February 2014 - 08:40 PM

  FYI, whenever you replace a direct drive single speed motor with a two speed motor, your supposed to install a different tub counterbalance spring as the new motor is heavier.

 

Part number: AP4459650

Part number: AP4459650

 

Eric




#285448 Agitating agitator problems

Posted by fairbank56 on 21 February 2014 - 03:00 PM

  Have you tried lifting up a little on the agitator while washer is agitating to see if it will be driven both directions while doing so?

 

Eric




#285267 kenmore (whirlpool) washer ejecting small items

Posted by fairbank56 on 20 February 2014 - 10:01 AM

  I'm aware of that but there's still too many numbers. Usually 8 numbers after the prefix. Show me a link to this washer on the Sears parts site.

 

Eric




#285258 Roper washer RTW43405SQ0

Posted by fairbank56 on 20 February 2014 - 09:24 AM

  Check the motor switch start winding contacts. Voltage is definitely dropping too much. Need to check socket on different circuit when starting washer to determine if problem is feed to house or just to that circuit feeding the washer. If you had too much resistance in feedline to washer receptacle with motor running, the voltage would drop. You have 117vac with motor running and that is ok.

 

Eric




#285254 Ge washer WJRE5550K2WW

Posted by fairbank56 on 20 February 2014 - 09:06 AM

  Problem could be the motor/inverter although GE recommends replacing both motor/inverter and mode shifter if either one fails. Unplug the two pin plug (red and yellow wires) from the motor/inverter and check resistance across those two wires. Should be either 65 ohms or 98 ohms depending on version of mode shifter. Usually, if the mode shifter solenoid coil is bad, the motor/inverter will show a 4 flash error code. It could be that the mode shifter is ok but motor/inverter is not applying proper voltage to operate it. You could check for proper voltage but that's not easy to do with the whole assembly rocking back and forth while agitating. Voltage is initially 135vdc to energized solenoid, then it drops to 3ovdc to hold the solenoid. You should check that voltage with two pin plug attached as that voltage can be very high (300vdc) without the coil connected.

 

Eric




#285190 Ge washer WJRE5550K2WW

Posted by fairbank56 on 19 February 2014 - 11:16 PM

I have the front panel off but do not see any LED lights anywhere.  I do not understand about the basket going back and forth.  The basket goes back and forth because that is what washes the clothes in this model. 

 

Only the infusor goes back and forth, the inner basket should not. If it is, the mode shifter coil has failed. You should be able to see through the outer tub with front panel removed to see if basket is rotating along with the infusor. Is the LED just flashing steadily on/off every 1/2 second or is it flashing four fast flashes, then pause and repeat? If inner basket is not rotating with infusor and no error codes on motor/inverter, check to see if motor shaft is hitting bottom panel of washer while running.

 

Eric




#285172 Ge washer WJRE5550K2WW

Posted by fairbank56 on 19 February 2014 - 09:33 PM

  Check to see if the basket is going back and forth with the agitator. If it is, you have a failed mode shifter and should be getting a four flash error on the LED on right side of motor/inverter. Remove front panel to check this.

 

Eric




#285143 Kenmore 417.43142200 front loader, no spin, just slightest jog from motor

Posted by fairbank56 on 19 February 2014 - 04:39 PM

  I don't know what meter you have but you need to set it so that it can read in the 3 megohms range. You should read 3 megohms ±10% when doing the resistance checks on the 6-pin jack of the speed control board. Since you are getting the proper voltages from the timer to the speed control, I would just replace the speed control. If you buy it from the link provided, you can return it if it doesn't fix the problem.

 

Eric




#285127 Auto Dry not Shutting Off

Posted by fairbank56 on 19 February 2014 - 11:43 AM

 was not getting hot.  

 

  Key piece of information that you did not tell us about before. Once again, continuity checks in high current circuits only tell you if something is bad but not necessarily if good. You are only using the low voltage and current of the meter during continuity checks but during actual operation high current is trying to go through the circuit and can cause a dirty/loose/almost broken connection to fail yet it reads ok with meter test.

 

Eric




#285038 Maytag Dryer Mod #MDG6200AWW timer not advancing

Posted by fairbank56 on 18 February 2014 - 07:12 PM

 How's your air flow, vent not restricted and exhausting properly?

 

  And thanks to PDuff




#284975 maytag dryer has blown replacement thermal fuse?

Posted by fairbank56 on 18 February 2014 - 10:27 AM

  The hi-limit is normally closed all the time. It should open if temp gets over 248°. Thermal fuse should blow if temp goes over 300°. Check the wire terminals at the thermal fuse. They must be clean and tight and the wire crimp must be good. Thermal fuse is in motor circuit so full motor current goes through it all the time. Motor should only draw 3-4 amps but if connections at fuse are faulty, the terminals can overheat. Check for voltage drop by measuring voltage across fuse while motor is in operation. Should be 0 volts.

 

Eric




#284892 MAV408DAWW Cycle Problem?

Posted by fairbank56 on 17 February 2014 - 08:45 PM

  Bad timer.

 

Part number: AP4024781

Part number: AP4024781

 

Eric




#284774 Roper Dryer RED4440VQ1 wont start

Posted by fairbank56 on 16 February 2014 - 08:09 PM

  Just unplug the one connector (A,B,C,H) and jump C to B. Don't worry about the other two, their only for the heat circuit. With C to B, the motor should run.

 

Eric

 

Added: OK, you beat me to it. Yes timer is bad.







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