Posted by fairbank56
on 01 September 2014 - 12:06 PM
Could be the timer or the speed switch. Jump out red/blue wire to blue wire on back of speed switch to rule that out. If it still does it, it's the timer. Same timer contact is used for all spin speed selections.
The tub is not supposed to go back and forth during agitation. If it does, then the mode shifter coil is likely failed open. Take front panel off washer and check error code LED on the right side of the inverter board above the motor. If it flashes 4 times and pauses, then repeats, then it's a bad mode shifter.
Check the door switch. Does drum lamp come on with door open? With door closed, should have continuity between COM and NO on switch. Unplug dryer and with timer on, check for continuity between timer terminals B and C. If all good, check for continuity between timer terminal C and start switch terminal 4 (brown wire). This checks the hi limit thermostat. On the start switch, you should normally have continuity between terminals 3 and 4 (brown wires) and between 3/4 to 2 (red wire) when you engage switch.
Thermal fuse and thermal cutoff are two different things. Thermal fuse is in motor circuit, not heat circuit. If thermal cutoff is blown, there is no power to the heat coil so even if it is grounded, it won't come on unless the motor heat switch is stuck closed and if that was stuck closed, the heat coil would be on all the time regardless if timer is on or not.
Sounds like you at least have a faulty timer. Heat should not come on in air dry. Also, faulty timer contacts can prevent motor from starting and the noise you hear in the timer when trying to start the motor may be contact arcing. You need to check to see if the heater element is grounded and/or the motor switch is faulty.
If the thermal cutoff was blown, then there would be no power to the heat coil. Sounds like you have multiple problems. Heat coil coming on when just timer is turned on could be a grounded heat element but that wouldn't prevent motor from starting. Heat in air fluff indicates a bad timer. Does the motor hum at all when you press the start button?
Hard to mistake them since the fuse reads 0 ohms while the inlet thermistor reads a nominal 50k ohms and outlet thermistor 10k ohms. I do hear of a lot of diy'ers that think they have bad thermistors because they do "continuity" checks on them instead of checking their resistances.
Does the start/pause button work as per Diagnostic: Console Buttons and Indicators test on page 1? If so do you get 120vac at control board P9-1 (blue wire) when start button is pressed in diagnostic mode? If no, check neutral to control board P8-3 and P8-4 via door switch. If good, looks like bad control board. If you do get 120vac to the blue wire and thermal fuse is good, problem could be belt switch or a problem with the neutral circuit to the motor. Replacing water valve was a waste. It can't operate unless the motor is running as motor switch provides neutral to the valve.
Do you have the machine now to troubleshoot or are you done on this one?
Probably the belt switch. Check continuity on it or jump it out. Could be the motor switch. That switch disconnects the start winding after motor is running and then applies power continuously to the run winding via the belt switch.
Disregard the video associated with this part as it does not apply.
Clean the moisture sensing bars in the drum and the area between them. If they are shorting out due to gunk buildup, the timer will not advance. If it still won't work, disconnect wiring to sensor bars and try auto dry again. If timer still does not advance, replace circuit board inside control panel.