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fairbank56

Member Since 17 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 09:49 AM

#285127 Auto Dry not Shutting Off

Posted by fairbank56 on 19 February 2014 - 11:43 AM

 was not getting hot.  

 

  Key piece of information that you did not tell us about before. Once again, continuity checks in high current circuits only tell you if something is bad but not necessarily if good. You are only using the low voltage and current of the meter during continuity checks but during actual operation high current is trying to go through the circuit and can cause a dirty/loose/almost broken connection to fail yet it reads ok with meter test.

 

Eric




#285038 Maytag Dryer Mod #MDG6200AWW timer not advancing

Posted by fairbank56 on 18 February 2014 - 07:12 PM

 How's your air flow, vent not restricted and exhausting properly?

 

  And thanks to PDuff




#284975 maytag dryer has blown replacement thermal fuse?

Posted by fairbank56 on 18 February 2014 - 10:27 AM

  The hi-limit is normally closed all the time. It should open if temp gets over 248°. Thermal fuse should blow if temp goes over 300°. Check the wire terminals at the thermal fuse. They must be clean and tight and the wire crimp must be good. Thermal fuse is in motor circuit so full motor current goes through it all the time. Motor should only draw 3-4 amps but if connections at fuse are faulty, the terminals can overheat. Check for voltage drop by measuring voltage across fuse while motor is in operation. Should be 0 volts.

 

Eric




#284892 MAV408DAWW Cycle Problem?

Posted by fairbank56 on 17 February 2014 - 08:45 PM

  Bad timer.

 

Part number: AP4024781

Part number: AP4024781

 

Eric




#284774 Roper Dryer RED4440VQ1 wont start

Posted by fairbank56 on 16 February 2014 - 08:09 PM

  Just unplug the one connector (A,B,C,H) and jump C to B. Don't worry about the other two, their only for the heat circuit. With C to B, the motor should run.

 

Eric

 

Added: OK, you beat me to it. Yes timer is bad.




#284757 Roper Dryer RED4440VQ1 wont start

Posted by fairbank56 on 16 February 2014 - 05:45 PM

So by my tests on the B terminal with the timer on and pushing the push to start and getting the voltage drop then it is for sure the timer being bad?

 

  Yes, the timer is bad. Disconnect the red wire from the A terminal and make sure it isn't touching anything. Jump B and C together and see if motor will run. With A disconnected, your not pulling the high heater current through your jumper.

 

Eric




#284725 Roper Dryer RED4440VQ1 wont start

Posted by fairbank56 on 16 February 2014 - 12:39 PM

  Check voltage at timer terminal C, should be 120vac, set timer on and press start, should stay at 120vac. If it stays steady at terminal C but drops at terminal B, then bad timer.

 

http://www.repaircli...0185972/1481701

 

Eric




#284704 Roper Dryer RED4440VQ1 wont start

Posted by fairbank56 on 16 February 2014 - 08:55 AM

  With timer on (dryer unplugged), check for continuity between timer terminals C and B. If good, with dryer plugged in, monitor voltage between terminal B and ground while pressing push to start switch. Should remain steady at ≈120vac.

 

Eric




#284643 Wjsr2080v1ww GE washer

Posted by fairbank56 on 15 February 2014 - 02:32 PM

 Yes, the clutch is inside the motor pulley. It's function is to allow the pulley to slip while the transmission is coming up to speed. The motor spins in one direction for agitation and the opposite direction for spin. The clutch is designed to be more aggresive in the agitate direction than in spin so that the pulley can slip more easily during the time the basket comes up to speed. When the transmission pulley is going in the agitate direction, it drives the transmission input shaft while the brake prevents the transmission housing, and thus the basket, from moving. The gears inside the transmission provide the back and forth agitation motion. There is a large limited grip spring at the very bottom of the transmission just above the pulley. Within the spring are the pulley hub and the brake cam hub. In agitation direction, the pulley hub is spinning in such a direction as to not grip the spring and only the pulley hub rotates. That hub is splined to the transmission input shaft. In spin direction the pulley hub grips the spring which causes the upper part of the spring to grip the brake cam hub. In the top of the brake cam hub are ramped grooves with balls in them. The cam rotates the balls into the shallow part of the grooves which causes the balls to push up on the brake hub which pushes up on the brake disc and springs to release the brake. The brake hub has tapered grooves in it as well for the balls to ride in. The top outer part of the brake cam has dogs on them that engage dogs on the brake hub which is secured to the lower transmission housing via the brake disc. Now the pulley drives the entire transmission housing which makes the basket spin with it. You can take a look at my webpage on replacing the transmission lower bearing to get a better idea of how this all works.

 

http://home.comcast....ansmission.html

 

Eric

 

Added: One thing that causes problems with spin is that the lubrication in the area of the brake cam (grooves and balls) dries up and can get gummy preventing proper brake release.




#284619 Wjsr2080v1ww GE washer

Posted by fairbank56 on 15 February 2014 - 10:48 AM

  Not actually "pivot" points. The four white pads on the four rotor arms. Just put a little white lithium grease on them. The clutch shoes slide on these pads to engage the pulley drum when the rotor gets up to speed.

 

Eric




#284606 Wjsr2080v1ww GE washer

Posted by fairbank56 on 15 February 2014 - 07:52 AM

  The clutch is inside the motor pulley. It allows the pulley to slip a bit when spin is first started. If there's a problem with the transmission that won't allow the main drive pulley to rotate or it's very difficult to rotate, the clutch will slip so that the motor is not bound. The clutch drive may be sticking and just need a cleaning. You can take the pulley off the motor and take the clutch parts out. Clean inside of pulley with wirebrush, clean the clutch drive of rust, lubricate the drive pivot points and put it all back together. To get that clip off the bottom of the motor shaft, grab it with a pair of large needle nosed pliers and wack the pliers with a hammer and it should come right off. This way, you can reuse it. GE always recommends replacing it but if you take it off properly, it can be reused.

 

Eric

 

GEclutch.jpg

 

GEclutch2.jpg

 

GEclutch1.jpg




#284549 GE washer WJSR2080V1WW

Posted by fairbank56 on 14 February 2014 - 04:37 PM

  No, that manual is for the hydrowave models, this one is an older (1997?) "T-style". Sounds like a bad lid switch. Washer would still fill and drain, but no agitate/spin. With this style lid switch, sometimes the white plastic part that the lid strike presses against will come off and end up at the bottom of the washer cabinet.

 

http://www.repaircli...H12X1043/278249

 

Eric

 

Here's your tech sheet.

 

http://appliantology...1ww-tech-sheet/




#284530 Maytag Centenial Direct drive Washer Clothes wet.

Posted by fairbank56 on 14 February 2014 - 12:30 PM

  The only way the load sense can operate the fill valves is if it has power to it. I normally gets power to it at it's L-1 terminal either through the timer fill contact, 10, or spray contact 13 (also contact 31 if extra rinse is selected). At the end of spin in normal cycle, timer contacts 10 and 13 are open however contact 38 (load sense) closes and contact 2 (drain/spin) stays closed for 52 seconds after spin (motor) stops. So here we are backfeeding power to the load sense for 52 seconds after spin stops. The load sense should not see this as a call for fill unless there is something wrong with it. At the end of spin in delicate cycle, contact 38 does not close before contact 2 opens which is why your not getting the end of spin fill there. A faulty timer can cause fill at wrong times but is highly unlikely the problem here since you have the classic symptom of a faulty load sense switch which is filling at the end of final spin. The other classic symptom is filling and agitating at the same time.

 

Eric




#284438 Maytag Dryer Mod #MDG6200AWW timer not advancing

Posted by fairbank56 on 13 February 2014 - 04:56 PM

  In timed dry, timer runs continuously. You set it for 30 minutes, and it runs for 30 minutes. In auto-dry, the timer is operated by the cycling thermostat and initially does not advance at all as most of the heat is absorbed by the wet clothes. As the clothes start to dry out, more heat is exhausted through the blower housing where the cycling thermostat is. When the cycling thermostat cycles, it removes power from the heat circuit and applies it to the timer. When air cools the cycling thermostat switches back and turns heat back on and timer off. The dryer the clothes are, the more the timer comes on until the end of auto-dry when timer switches timer motor on continously near end of cycle.

 

Eric




#284433 maytag lid swich question mod# lat8614aae

Posted by fairbank56 on 13 February 2014 - 04:33 PM

  Jump SW to M to bypass switch. Fuse is only for fill circuit, if it is blown, the washer will not fill. The check switch is the lower white one. The other one above it is the main lid switch. If main lid switch sticks closed, when you open the lid, the check switch will place a short circuit across the fuse via the stuck lid switch. With blown fuse, washer is rendered non-usable (won't fill) until you fix the switch. Overengineered overkill IMO.

 

  With lid closed, you should have continuity between SW and 12 on upper switch and between 12 and M on lower switch. With lid open, open circuit between SW and 12, open between 12 and M and continuity between 12 and 30.

 

Eric







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