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itbedave

Member Since 11 Jun 2005
Offline Last Active Apr 28 2014 05:54 AM

Topics I've Started

Tub overflow seal "....not designed for constant exposure to water" ?

21 April 2014 - 01:02 PM

I'm posting this on behalf of a friend who discovered water pouring into her kitchen from above where her son was taking a bath last weekend. They'd had a toilet leak in that bath before that caused drywall damage in the kitchen. The plumber at the time (2010) had to access that area through the kitchen ceiling as well to check the tub area for leaks. At that time, they replaced the tub fixtures, including the drain and overflow.

So she's had the same plumbing company come out today to look at the new leak. He said it was coming from the top of the overflow. When she told them they had done the work to replace the overflow, he decided he needed to call his manager. The work on the invoice, mind you, was only warrantied for 2 years. :-\

The manager told her they were willing to give her 50% off their work today, and that "...those seals are not designed for constant exposure to water." So she believes her 3 kids are to blame for filling the tub too high and causing that seal to fail. I obviously have a very different opinion.

I've got two kids in a 14 year old home with entry level contractor pack plumbing fixtures and my overflow hasn't failed once, in spite of their best efforts! Am I right to be suspect of this plumbing company and their statement that work they did 4 years ago could fail that easily.

They'd already put thousands into repairing the bath and kitchen from the last problem. Now there's concern about how long it's been leaking, If there's mold, not to mention the costs of again fixing the kitchen ceiling where water came through the cabinets this time. :-(

Would appreciate honest feedback and advice. Thanks in advance.

Water heater working...but not...

08 January 2013 - 12:57 PM

I'm not at home at the moment to give you all the model info on my water heater - but thought I'd get the discussion rolling on a possible general cause given the symptoms.

 

First, some background:

it's a 12 y.o. 40-gallon gas water heater. I've done my best to keep it serviced over the years by regularly opening the drain and getting as much sediment out as possible. We do have hard water and no softener. Last summer I found the thermal expansion tank above the water heater had failed (bladder ruptured), so I replaced that. At the same time, I completely drained the tank at that time and replaced the anode rod, which had almost completely worn away. But it gave me a chance to inspect the tank from the top with a flashlight and flush it out good. I was actually surprised by how good it looked inside - but of course, I couldn't get a close look at the bottom. I also replaced the drain valve (had a cheap plastic/nylon one) and the pressure relief valve at the top with a matching rated one. At 10+ years, I figured better safe than sorry.

 

What I also found at the time is that the water pressure in my house was WAY high. With some direction from some of these forums, I tested the pressure at an outside hose spigot which was reading 85psi. Things started clicking then - probably the reason for the expansion tank failure. Probably the reason I found one of the bathroom hot water shutoff valves "popped" off earlier this year (which I thought my wife had somehow accidentally shut off before.) I didn't know if the city's pressure to the house changed? Or if the inlet pressure regulator valve had failed? But I was able to adjust the regulator down and it had been holding steady as of sometime in November. I've not checked it recently because I had no reason to. But maybe I do again....

 

The new symptom is little to no hot water - or just luke-warm water at best - when you turn on the upstairs shower in the morning to it's hottest setting. it's happened twice in the past week - but not two days in a row. It's been about 5 days apart. Got up in the morning to take a shower. Shower was the first thing I turned on - and at it's hottest setting, it's only luke-warm. Even after letting it run a full minute! I took my luke-warm shower (maybe 5 minutes), got dressed, and went down in the basement to check the water heater, fearing the worst. No leaks. Nothing from the pressure relief valve. Drain valve is closed and no leaks. Tank was full. Expansion tank still functioning fine. The gas was on and I heard the water being heated (crackling noise it makes). So I manually tested/opened the pressure relief valve and heard air escaping...quite a bit... before water finally began to flow. I've tested that on several occasions before and never heard that much air have to escape. So that concerned me.

 

I went up to the kitchen and turned on the hot water, and we had hot water.???

 

I thought maybe it was just the trapped air - and a one-time issue. But it happened again this morning according to my wife. She left earlier than I did - but said she had to take a luke-warm shower - as did one of our kids after her. When i got in the shower an hour later, it was perfectly fine. In fact, water so hot, I had to cool it down.

 

So, CLEARLY, something isn't right here.

 

Replacing the water heater was actually already a starred item in our major expenditures this year. I just figured anything we got beyond 10 years on it would be a blessing - but we shouldn't wait for catastrophic failure.

 

I can get back on here tonight with my water heater's specifics if need be - but I hope this would be enough to at least start honing in on the problem(s).  Thanks in advance for your time!

 

 


GE Profile PSHF6PGZBB Temp Readout Screwy

06 August 2011 - 12:16 PM

I have a month-old GE Profile (PSHF6PGZBB) fridge that suddenly has the temperature readout going screwy. It was working just fine - and everything else seems to be working just fine - but when checking the temps for the fridge or freezer, it reads "-335" or "-435". Pushing the temp adjust buttons up or down only adjusts the first number of the 3 - so I can go from -335 to -445 or -545.

I thought I would check here to see if there was a simple way to reset this before I contact warranty service. Thanks in advance!

Overstuffing Washing Machines

04 July 2011 - 04:28 PM

I'm tired of having the same stupid argument with my wife about overstuffing loads in the washing machine. She claims she fills it up to the line - which is sometimes true. But she also PACKS it in tight to the line, just as tight as it will go. How do I know? Every single time it goes into the spin cycle, it's starts banging like it's going through the wall and I have to go stop it, adjust what's in there, and restart it. It almost ALWAYS becomes unbalanced. And then she doesn't understand why the kids break out from soap or softener residue still in our clothes. She will argue until she's blue in the face that she doesn't overstuff it - and then gets in a huff and asks me if I'll help do the laundry since she's now going to have to reduce the load size due to my unreasonable demands. I just tell her to do what she wants, and when we'll just have to replace the machine sooner.

I doubt that even printing out a recommended load guide would help justify anything - but I thought I would ask if there IS such a thing anywhere online?

Frigidaire 26cf side-by-side drawers, shelves, bins for sale

15 June 2011 - 03:32 PM

We just had to replace our 7 year old Frigidaire side-by-side that was in excellent condition except for the compressor. I saved ALL of the drawers, shelves and bins (including Ice maker tray w/auger) because I was sure SOMEONE might need to replace some in their compatible model, and I've seen how expensive replacements are. I'd like to sell the lot but am willing to sell individual pieces if necessary.

The fridge model was Frigidaire FSR26KF6CB2 - and if you look it up on the parts sites, those shelves and bins and drawers fit into a whole LOT of different models.

Message me or email me if interested. I'll work with you on price and ship them any way you'd prefer. Just didn't want to see them go to the dump.


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