Jump to content

Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

Parts Search
Site Search

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact

Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums

To get started, click here.

Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.



Member Since 28 Dec 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 07:56 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Sub-Zero 511 refrigerator S/N M114......

02 December 2014 - 07:03 AM

You may not need the entire floor heater.  The simple drain heater braided wire which goes into drain tube.  4201290 is the part number for the basic drain heater I think it would do the job for you as long as your freezer temp stays between 0 to -2

In Topic: Sub-Zero 511 refrigerator S/N M114......

29 November 2014 - 06:07 PM

Drain heater was a common issue on these units.


Simple installation, same as the 611 video you saw except that you have analog controls.   You have to dismount the thermostats to access the evaporator where the heater goes.


Check your Freezer temp make sure it's not too cold. Normal temp should be between 0, -4  no need to be any colder which could cause freezing of drain line.  Drain heater kit comes with directions pretty straight forward.


Unless your temperatures are way off I don't see any reason to replace cold control.

In Topic: Thermador wall oven SM272zs/02 won't heat

28 November 2014 - 07:57 AM

Most of the units have sail switches located behind lower trim.  you can always jump out ran stall relay in control panel area to test that is definitely the issue which I would say I think it must be.


 Remove oven door for easier access


If the unit has a lot of lint build up may just need cleaning otherwise need new sail switch

In Topic: Fisher Paykel DD603 fills too full

27 November 2014 - 11:20 PM

No offense taken, but still don't think we're talking the same thing.

I'm not talking about the rotor inside the unit or the hall sensor (RPS) but the stator connected to the tub itself. The issue when the stator cage and winding get loose It will work in drain direction, but it becomes so loose the controller cannot get an accurate read from hall sesor which can cause an overfill like this.

I wasn't speaking of the RPS itself but that could cause it to although I don't recall one doing that.

I saw that the controllers had already been swapped and inlet valve replaced, so I am think something out of the ordinary.

I finally got smart and stopped doing repairs on those 602s last ones I did you fixed one thing then something else went out turning into a never ending ordeal. Don't miss those things.

In Topic: DCS Gas Range DCS-RG 304-L

27 November 2014 - 09:49 AM

Take the oven bottom out and inspect the bake burner. 


Look for a fracture by the igniter.  The constant heat from the igniter fatigues the metal of the burner.  This is a fairly common issue seen on any gas range, but especially on the premier ranges ie Viking, DCS etc..


If there is no fractures in burner, look at air shutter.  Make sure there is no lint build up or the holes are plugged up with debris.

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact

Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics