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btenpin

Member Since 28 Dec 2012
Offline Last Active Apr 17 2015 06:53 AM

#312411 Emergency! Emergency!

Posted by btenpin on 31 January 2015 - 07:22 AM

My Emergency advise for customers, if I talk to them on phone.

 

If its leaking turn off the water if it's smoking call 911.  We don't work on heart, lung machines.  Call me after 8am and we will get to you as promptly as we can

 

This is why I don't answer the phone myself anymore for years.

 

We do not do Emergency service.  We make every attempt to help people out whenever possible, but for all the reasons listed above we do not do it period.

 

Normal people (whatever that is) usually get it after explained to them, and realize their unrealistic expectation.  The rest just keep dialing the phone until they find a tech so desperate for work theyll take anything.  Then they both get what they deserve. 

 

As in everything you say today all is IMHO




#310188 Thermador Pro grand Steam PRD48JDS

Posted by btenpin on 28 December 2014 - 09:27 AM

I have not run into this specific beast myself (thankfully) but have seen one at a training and similar models.

 

Communication errors are one of the most difficult things to troubleshoot.  With that said, you stated the issue presents itself when set over 400 degrees.  This would lead me to suspect a thermal (heat) issue first.  Thermadore's have been know on their wall ovens to run into thermal issues when on  for long periods of time or high temps.  It is believed that high heat migrating into control panel causes the connections from harness to boards soften causing poor connections intermittently

 

Does the door close tightly and gasket in good condition?  Techline always wants us to replace door springs and gaskets as any early step, but often they are fine.  Is the cooling fan running?  If your fan wasn't running the unit should be giving an error, and should not be getting no heat.'

 

Do you have any error codes ie sensor issue etc..

 

The reason I'm answering my own questions is that I have had similar issues (not with this specific model) these are the questions and suggestions the manufacture routinely gives us.

 

The main PCB on these professional ranges do cause issues sometimes, but given the type of failure you are reporting I am suspect of the display board.

 

If I were you I'd call the 800# which is the Thermadore Technical service line if it's the # Samurai gave, or may be their customer servie # see if they will speak to you.  They probably will not as there 1st question is asking for your pay code for Authorized service companies.  They will likely give you another number for a local Authorized service company.  Bosch/Thermadore does have their own factory technicians in some areas.  If they are in your area that would be the way to go as opposed to an independent authorized company.  Unfortunately an issue like this on this unit may come down to some replacement diagnostics (in other words replacing parts until it works) which is why I hate unnecessary electronics that just make the unit more expensive and fancy!  If you use an independent company and the unit is out of manufacture warranty they cannot get reimbursed for parts unnecessarily replaced.  I know Samurai would suggest using a part provider which allows unconditional returns which you can do.

 

If you go with an actual Bosch/Thermadore factory technician if he/she (who say's I'm not evolved) has to start swapping parts to find the problem it won't be on your dime.

 

If you feel like spinning the roulette wheel then if it was me after checking all harness connections I would put a little money on the display board as long as door is closing tight and gasket is in good condition. " No Guarantee or Warranty implied" on free advise

 

Good luck to you just be patient be systematic in your approach 123,abc etc.. look for patterns sounds like you have a good start with the high temp if that is the only time you see issue.




#308366 Thermador wall oven SM272zs/02 won't heat

Posted by btenpin on 28 November 2014 - 07:57 AM

Most of the units have sail switches located behind lower trim.  you can always jump out ran stall relay in control panel area to test that is definitely the issue which I would say I think it must be.

 

 Remove oven door for easier access

 

If the unit has a lot of lint build up may just need cleaning otherwise need new sail switch




#308325 DCS Gas Range DCS-RG 304-L

Posted by btenpin on 27 November 2014 - 09:49 AM

Take the oven bottom out and inspect the bake burner. 

 

Look for a fracture by the igniter.  The constant heat from the igniter fatigues the metal of the burner.  This is a fairly common issue seen on any gas range, but especially on the premier ranges ie Viking, DCS etc..

 

If there is no fractures in burner, look at air shutter.  Make sure there is no lint build up or the holes are plugged up with debris.




#308313 Fisher Paykel DD603 fills too full

Posted by btenpin on 27 November 2014 - 12:49 AM

Do the above, but before replacing inlet valve which can well be the root of this do yourself a favor.

Check underneath the tub to see if the stator cage is loose.

If it is loose the hall sensor gets an erratic reading.

The fill is monitored by power thru motor, so if computer gets bad info from hall sensor can cause unit to overfill and give U1 fault

Have to remove bottom cover then gently grab stator and check for play should be solid, if not need to replace stator if solid then go with the fill valve.


#307564 Sick of Not Making Any Money

Posted by btenpin on 14 November 2014 - 07:43 AM

Illinois is close to Ohio!

 

We just elected a new Governor.  Who knows maybe this guy may actually do a good job, and not go to jail like our past Governors.

 

We have plenty of work, and pay an hourly base (for the slow times which we haven't had in a  loong time) plus incentive % of total revenue.  We have been in business for 20yrs.

 

I agree with the others that it sounds like you have what it takes to strike out on your own as a 1 man show if you wanted.  Be careful of what you wish for

 

Just to play devils advocate and give my 2 cents I have been running my own business now for 20 yrs.  I have been a 1 man show at times, and have had 2-3 techs working for me also (people come and people go).  The issue of being on your own is if you get hurt or sick you are out of business and income other than disability.

 

It's good to be part of a team as long as it's a positive team that uses the synergy of the team.  No one person knows everything, and the team makes each individual stronger.

 

A business is only as good as the individual who owns it.  I respect people, and do my best to practice the Golden Rule, but I am human and make mistakes as everyone.

 

If you have any question PM me

 

Brian T




#305023 circuit board standoff tool

Posted by btenpin on 07 October 2014 - 06:51 AM

Hate to burst his bubble, but I just use a short piece of 1/4" copper.  Serves same purpose, works great.




#304938 Sub Zero Model 590 - Fridge not cooling. Please Help.

Posted by btenpin on 06 October 2014 - 07:32 AM

You said frost is definitely heavier at top.  The frost pattern should be even from top to bottom and the entire coil should be frosted.  Sounds like you have a sealed system issue.

 

The Freezer is irrelevant to the refrigerator on this unit as the Fresh food section has it's own compressor and sealed system.

 

A 590 should have a valve on the compressor process tube.  A qualified Tech can connect gauges to the unit and should find pressure around +5# to +12#,  I am assuming you will likely find the unit in a vacuum indicating a leak in the sealed system.  When this happens the unit will build up ice if the mechanical cold control bulb is in the ice it will not run.  Once it defrost enough it will run again,(off cycle defrost) which is why sometimes it will seem to cool.  

 

I would find  a Technician who is familiar with Sub Zero.  It's a basic refrigerator, but does have some unique settings such as the fan blade spacings which are critical for optimal operation.

 

You more than likely have an evaporator leak (black evaporator) was an unfortunate issue in the later years of this model series.  Serial numbers are important to identify which components were used on this specific unit.




#304467 Kitchenaid MW/Oven combo Mod#KEMC377KSS03 Replacing torsion springs

Posted by btenpin on 30 September 2014 - 06:00 AM

The manuals don't go over that procedure very well, and it's difficult to describe.  Here is a video that shows the procedure.

 

Word of warning, you may want to remove the inner glass the first time you do it.  The glass explodes and goes everywhere if you tap it with the spring or tools.  (so I've heard not that I would have ever done that)

 

Didn't paste as hyperlink, but copy and past to address bar

 

http://appliantology...ombo-wall-oven/




#301170 Whirlpool m# WRS342FIAoo Refrigerator not producing ice

Posted by btenpin on 17 August 2014 - 06:40 AM

This is a standard whirlpool icemaker which is a temperature controlled unit.  There is a thermostatic bi metal mounted on face of mold.  The freezer needs to be 6 degrees or colder before it will allow to harvest.

 

Yours has the icemaker mounted across the width of the freezer, and uses the optics board to stop the unit if the door is open. Where were you checking voltage to the unit?  If you remove the icemaker you should be checking either at the unit head ports L and N.  You can also check at the harness coming out of the freezer wall on black and white wires.  If you are only getting 48v the optics board has failed.    Part number: AP3137510

Part number: AP3137510

 

Pull the cover off of icemaker check the main drive gear see if it is loose or missing could be why ice was partially out of mold if thats the case you will need to replace the icemaker. Part number: AP5690504

Part number: AP5690504




#301098 Second-hand SubZero 650 Top/Bottom issues

Posted by btenpin on 15 August 2014 - 08:33 PM

need a new computer control board freezer compressor relay stuck closed running constantly if running when turning off power button.

 

This wasn't uncommon for this series.  The vacuum condenser should come on if extended compressor run times.  Definitely need new seals if your getting condensation in the fresh food compartment.   The gurgling is probably the defrost drain line, partially from excessive condensation but should clean out with a steamer or just flush hot water through it with an old turkey baster.  

 

You can access the drain tube behind the drawers in the fresh food section take it off of the nipple of the trough and blow some steam or hot water through it clear it. 




#301054 DCS Fisher Paykel Cooktop - CT304ss ignition & clicking issue

Posted by btenpin on 15 August 2014 - 05:51 AM

If you visually see a good spark the unit should light.  If the simmer jet is blocked, that would explain the clicking while lit.  The main portion of the burner should lite, but would likely be delayed a few seconds.

 

These DCS units the simmer burner must lite and have a steady flame to make contact with the electrode to give feed back to the module.

 

Remove the cap take off the nut and removed the top burner base.  You can see the simmer burner jet will be visible, often after a boil over gunk gets in there and blocks the orifice.  You can take a needle and attempt to clear it, but sometimes you will have to replace it.

 

BT




#300912 Miele Master Chef oven H398BP2

Posted by btenpin on 13 August 2014 - 05:49 AM

I did run function test in diagnostics. The fans run properly at all speeds, audibly and visually only test procedures offered. 

 

As I said Bosch/Thermador uses same type of system.  I see more of them than the Miele product around here, at least Bosch gives us some idea of what were looking for and where to check it.  It is an unreliable test at best.  I have replaced relay boards when the fans "appeared" to get feed back voltage 18vdc if I remember right for theirs.  The fans appeared to be operating correctly and unit still wouldn't heat with new board.  I exchanged the board and replaced fan.  When the unit still didn't work installed board and fan finally it worked.

 

Miele techline rep told me he couldn't give me any test to check "signal"

 

Manufactures did away with the mechanical sail switches of old, with these hall sensor fans for more reliability.  At least with the mechanical sail switches you could easily test them to determine the failure.

 

Just because the fan runs doesn't mean it will provide power to the relay, the board is looking for specific info from fan before it allows unit to heat.  I assume (dangerous I know) it is like the feedback voltage on evap motors.  It has to be measurable somehow.  Obviously the relay board is reading it.

 

Better living through electronics give me a wood stove any day sorry for the old guy rat I'm just getting tired of these "new improvements"

 

Brian T




#294123 Bosch SHY56A05UC Dishwasher

Posted by btenpin on 20 May 2014 - 07:36 AM

Didn't look up unit, but first thing I would check is the wiring connections.

 

If is has wire nuts they may be melting, or if it has the terminal block may have loose connections and be burning up.  These things pull 10-12 amps and if not on separate circuit see connection failed regularly.




#293491 whirlpool model wtw4950xw2

Posted by btenpin on 13 May 2014 - 05:50 AM

Likely pulley loose on gearcase causing "splutch" to not engage properly







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