Jump to content

Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

Parts Search
Site Search

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact

Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums

To get started, click here.

Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.



Member Since 28 Dec 2012
Offline Last Active Nov 24 2014 07:26 AM

#307564 Sick of Not Making Any Money

Posted by btenpin on 14 November 2014 - 07:43 AM

Illinois is close to Ohio!


We just elected a new Governor.  Who knows maybe this guy may actually do a good job, and not go to jail like our past Governors.


We have plenty of work, and pay an hourly base (for the slow times which we haven't had in a  loong time) plus incentive % of total revenue.  We have been in business for 20yrs.


I agree with the others that it sounds like you have what it takes to strike out on your own as a 1 man show if you wanted.  Be careful of what you wish for


Just to play devils advocate and give my 2 cents I have been running my own business now for 20 yrs.  I have been a 1 man show at times, and have had 2-3 techs working for me also (people come and people go).  The issue of being on your own is if you get hurt or sick you are out of business and income other than disability.


It's good to be part of a team as long as it's a positive team that uses the synergy of the team.  No one person knows everything, and the team makes each individual stronger.


A business is only as good as the individual who owns it.  I respect people, and do my best to practice the Golden Rule, but I am human and make mistakes as everyone.


If you have any question PM me


Brian T

#305023 circuit board standoff tool

Posted by btenpin on 07 October 2014 - 06:51 AM

Hate to burst his bubble, but I just use a short piece of 1/4" copper.  Serves same purpose, works great.

#304938 Sub Zero Model 590 - Fridge not cooling. Please Help.

Posted by btenpin on 06 October 2014 - 07:32 AM

You said frost is definitely heavier at top.  The frost pattern should be even from top to bottom and the entire coil should be frosted.  Sounds like you have a sealed system issue.


The Freezer is irrelevant to the refrigerator on this unit as the Fresh food section has it's own compressor and sealed system.


A 590 should have a valve on the compressor process tube.  A qualified Tech can connect gauges to the unit and should find pressure around +5# to +12#,  I am assuming you will likely find the unit in a vacuum indicating a leak in the sealed system.  When this happens the unit will build up ice if the mechanical cold control bulb is in the ice it will not run.  Once it defrost enough it will run again,(off cycle defrost) which is why sometimes it will seem to cool.  


I would find  a Technician who is familiar with Sub Zero.  It's a basic refrigerator, but does have some unique settings such as the fan blade spacings which are critical for optimal operation.


You more than likely have an evaporator leak (black evaporator) was an unfortunate issue in the later years of this model series.  Serial numbers are important to identify which components were used on this specific unit.

#304467 Kitchenaid MW/Oven combo Mod#KEMC377KSS03 Replacing torsion springs

Posted by btenpin on 30 September 2014 - 06:00 AM

The manuals don't go over that procedure very well, and it's difficult to describe.  Here is a video that shows the procedure.


Word of warning, you may want to remove the inner glass the first time you do it.  The glass explodes and goes everywhere if you tap it with the spring or tools.  (so I've heard not that I would have ever done that)


Didn't paste as hyperlink, but copy and past to address bar




#301170 Whirlpool m# WRS342FIAoo Refrigerator not producing ice

Posted by btenpin on 17 August 2014 - 06:40 AM

This is a standard whirlpool icemaker which is a temperature controlled unit.  There is a thermostatic bi metal mounted on face of mold.  The freezer needs to be 6 degrees or colder before it will allow to harvest.


Yours has the icemaker mounted across the width of the freezer, and uses the optics board to stop the unit if the door is open. Where were you checking voltage to the unit?  If you remove the icemaker you should be checking either at the unit head ports L and N.  You can also check at the harness coming out of the freezer wall on black and white wires.  If you are only getting 48v the optics board has failed.    Part number: AP3137510

Part number: AP3137510


Pull the cover off of icemaker check the main drive gear see if it is loose or missing could be why ice was partially out of mold if thats the case you will need to replace the icemaker. Part number: AP5690504

Part number: AP5690504

#301098 Second-hand SubZero 650 Top/Bottom issues

Posted by btenpin on 15 August 2014 - 08:33 PM

need a new computer control board freezer compressor relay stuck closed running constantly if running when turning off power button.


This wasn't uncommon for this series.  The vacuum condenser should come on if extended compressor run times.  Definitely need new seals if your getting condensation in the fresh food compartment.   The gurgling is probably the defrost drain line, partially from excessive condensation but should clean out with a steamer or just flush hot water through it with an old turkey baster.  


You can access the drain tube behind the drawers in the fresh food section take it off of the nipple of the trough and blow some steam or hot water through it clear it. 

#301054 DCS Fisher Paykel Cooktop - CT304ss ignition & clicking issue

Posted by btenpin on 15 August 2014 - 05:51 AM

If you visually see a good spark the unit should light.  If the simmer jet is blocked, that would explain the clicking while lit.  The main portion of the burner should lite, but would likely be delayed a few seconds.


These DCS units the simmer burner must lite and have a steady flame to make contact with the electrode to give feed back to the module.


Remove the cap take off the nut and removed the top burner base.  You can see the simmer burner jet will be visible, often after a boil over gunk gets in there and blocks the orifice.  You can take a needle and attempt to clear it, but sometimes you will have to replace it.



#300912 Miele Master Chef oven H398BP2

Posted by btenpin on 13 August 2014 - 05:49 AM

I did run function test in diagnostics. The fans run properly at all speeds, audibly and visually only test procedures offered. 


As I said Bosch/Thermador uses same type of system.  I see more of them than the Miele product around here, at least Bosch gives us some idea of what were looking for and where to check it.  It is an unreliable test at best.  I have replaced relay boards when the fans "appeared" to get feed back voltage 18vdc if I remember right for theirs.  The fans appeared to be operating correctly and unit still wouldn't heat with new board.  I exchanged the board and replaced fan.  When the unit still didn't work installed board and fan finally it worked.


Miele techline rep told me he couldn't give me any test to check "signal"


Manufactures did away with the mechanical sail switches of old, with these hall sensor fans for more reliability.  At least with the mechanical sail switches you could easily test them to determine the failure.


Just because the fan runs doesn't mean it will provide power to the relay, the board is looking for specific info from fan before it allows unit to heat.  I assume (dangerous I know) it is like the feedback voltage on evap motors.  It has to be measurable somehow.  Obviously the relay board is reading it.


Better living through electronics give me a wood stove any day sorry for the old guy rat I'm just getting tired of these "new improvements"


Brian T

#294123 Bosch SHY56A05UC Dishwasher

Posted by btenpin on 20 May 2014 - 07:36 AM

Didn't look up unit, but first thing I would check is the wiring connections.


If is has wire nuts they may be melting, or if it has the terminal block may have loose connections and be burning up.  These things pull 10-12 amps and if not on separate circuit see connection failed regularly.

#293491 whirlpool model wtw4950xw2

Posted by btenpin on 13 May 2014 - 05:50 AM

Likely pulley loose on gearcase causing "splutch" to not engage properly

#284173 Looking for some assistance with Bosch SHX55M05UC Dishwasher

Posted by btenpin on 11 February 2014 - 06:59 AM

1st thing I would check, which the other company may have done already I would hope.  


Check the wiring connections where it connects to house wiring behind toe kick.


 Seen many where connections fail causing unit to be dead.


These units pull more amperage than domestic units 11-12 amps when heating water.  If the wiring connections are not tight they overheat and burn up.

#282779 Viking DFBB536R Door seal replacement problems

Posted by btenpin on 29 January 2014 - 07:29 AM

Did gasket come with thin plastic strips with no apparent purpose ?


Some Viking units have polarized magnets and must be put on with proper orientation.  The strips are to check the magnetism.  It should have come with directions, but wouldn't be the first time Viking forgot to supply instructions.


Some units have magnets in the door frame, take a ferrous screw or other object see if it sticks to unit door frame then check the gasket.  You could also take a refrigerator magnet and see if it repels or is attracted to door frame.  If the gasket has smoothed out, (I usually put them in a bathtub of warm water for 10-15 minutes prior to installing)  then you may have to re-orientate (flip) gasket to match up the magnet. 

#276802 Sick of bad install jobs

Posted by btenpin on 08 December 2013 - 08:53 AM

ok figured it out I think

Attached Files

#276801 Sick of bad install jobs

Posted by btenpin on 08 December 2013 - 08:49 AM

This is the form we use.  I will write out specific concerns on back of form (as noted in body of form) I have them initial both sides of form and sign.

Don't use on every job, just ones that have a higher likelihood of negative outcomes.


Use on built in ovens etc.. as you never know whats lurking behind that appliance.  You never know if it was a professional installer or a "Monkey boy" installer.   


Ok I guess I'm a Monkey boy poster, can't figure out how to attach form

#275705 KitchenAid by Hobart

Posted by btenpin on 28 November 2013 - 08:41 AM

I'd check the drain valve for a partial blockage holding it open.  Used to do a ton of these back in the day.  It would only be a timer if the drain solenoid is being activated improperly.  If the unit is draining when running and the solenoid is NOT activated, pinch off the drain hose after the drain valve.  If it works need to take the valve off check for the infamous toothpick caught in valve.  The diaphragm maybe damaged which mean new drain valve.


I like to keep these old dogs going if at all possible they are tanks seen them 25yrs + if kept in good condition


Brian T

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact

Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics