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Member Since 28 Dec 2012
Offline Last Active Apr 17 2015 06:53 AM

Topics I've Started

Miele Master Chef oven H398BP2

12 August 2014 - 08:10 PM

Ok I have a question on the newer wall ovens that utilize hall sensors to monitor the fan speed along with the relay boards.


The latest issue is the above mentioned H398BP2 Miele oven.  Upper oven does not heat.  The cooling fan runs I have 120 volt out of relay board.This unit has a seperate relay to switch the other leg of power which is activated by 12 vdc from the power electronic ( I would call it a relay board). I do not have 12vdc  to the relay.  Is it the board or the cooling fan sensor?


I spoke to mfr techline and was suggested to replaced the power electronic at a cost of $800.00 for part.  When I went through service manual I found this pearl of wisdom.

                                     " All oven cooling fans (including speed ovens) are equipped with a
speed sensor. This sensor is a Hall-effect semiconductor device and
its proper operation cannot always be determined using a multimeter. If
an oven refuses to heat, always remember to check the operation of
the cooling fan at all available speeds. If the electronic does not detect
a signal from the fan, the main heater relay (1K1, 2K1) will not


What ??  I asked the techline rep about this and told me he didn't know of any way to test the sensor on the fan.  I have had a couple of Thermadors where the only way I could get the unit to work was replacing relay board and the cooling fan. Tried independantly but only worked with both new components.  How do these mfr's get away with this stuff !  I have to quote my customer it's this much but it may be this much more if that doesn't work.  Makes me sound professional doesn't it.  Sorry but after 30 years of this crap when I think I've seen it all it just gets worse!


Electrolux EI23CS55GS1 won't dispense cubes

01 August 2014 - 09:39 PM

Need some input spent too much time on this thing already.


IQ control unit EI23CS55GS1 everything working except won't dispense ice.  Ran through diagnostics all features operate properly except for chute door solenoid.


I was getting some strange voltages at solenoid realy board.  I read 7 volts wher I should have had 12v and 52 vac where should have 120 v


Solenoid clean and linkage are free.  I was thinking solenoid might have been causing issue, while I was taking my 100th reading and deciding to replace solenoid assembly the solenoid suddenly activated briefly then couldn't get to do go again ??


Any experiences with this issue or input appreciated




20 June 2014 - 03:05 PM


I never learn, friends from church's unit. Their son-in law looked at it lights wet out.

He ripprd out transformer, Triac and about every screw in the unit.

I odrered new transformer and Triac. Prepared them boards could be bad but wouldn't know until get power.

Put in new Trans no secondary voltage? Secondary showed 1.2 ohms resistance primary 7.9. Power in nothing out, bad trans. Ordered another outrageously priced trans. Went back did resistance test both same. Connected. Test cord no power out of either one ??

What am I missing? Anyone run into one of these.


kenmore 110.46752701 F71, F61 errors

28 April 2014 - 03:02 PM

Unit has no history of power surge ran diagnostics get F61 error won't proceed

MHW6000XG2 error F6E01

25 March 2014 - 03:45 PM

Had a MHW6000XG2 with dryer stacked on top.  


Got the dryer down.  Manually unlocked door clothes appeared to have spun out.


Checked all the connectors on CCU.  Unit will enter diagnostic's, but will not advance through diagnostic cycle.


I can program the unit for a cycle, but as soon as press start button error code pops up.


I called Whirlpool techline against my better judgement.  He had me basically repeat test I had already done, I have 5vdc where I should and 120 volts to the MCU.


Which the wonderful advise of the Tech line was that based on readings it could be either the CCU or the MCU just have to replace one and see if it solves the issue.


I had asked about readings through lock solenoids on the schematic it shows a value of 50-75 ohms.  The reading I found 130 ohms, they told me that was OK?  In my experience its usually the MCU that causes problem.  I was just concerned about the reading in the lock assy.  The door will lock, just won't unlock on it's own.


Was planning on getting a MCU unless some new wisdom comes via this site

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