Jump to content



Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.


Parts Search
Site Search

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


To get started, click here.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Radio Loco

Member Since 24 Feb 2013
Offline Last Active Today, 02:36 PM

#310034 Maytag MGR6775BDB18

Posted by Radio Loco on 24 December 2014 - 02:28 AM

Take a clean pan and set it on one of the burners. Is there black soot on the pan bottom, after a few minutes? If so, gas/air mixture is off. Check the cleanliness of the burners. Then follow how to adjust that models mixture.

Are they constantly running a humidifier anywhere in the house? Is the house sealed up for the cold, dry winter? It's screwy, but they will actually starve the NG's combustion process of oxygen, producing the yellow flame.


#309711 Fisher Paykel DD603 solenoid clicking and soft beeping

Posted by Radio Loco on 17 December 2014 - 06:59 PM

Check the lid motor connectors on the power filter for corrosion and proper seating/orientation/wire-terminal crimp integrity (give a gentle tug). They should be the 2 or 3 pin connectors on the EMI board. If corroded, give them a good shower with contact cleaner and an acid brush or tooth brush. Power removed first, of course.

Then check that the lid actuators are assembled correctly on the slides and yokes (for both drawers, especially the top). Replace them if they appear slow. This may be the clicking noise you are hearing.

Also check all connectors on the main pcb for corrosion and proper seating/orientation.

Do you need to push the power button to open a drawer?


#308984 Amprobe Line Splitter

Posted by Radio Loco on 06 December 2014 - 01:40 PM

I have the Extech version and use in conjunction with the Kill-a-Watt as DA describes.

As far as customer perceived "wow factor" goes, the Kill-a-Watt, line splitter, and digital multimeter (I even turn on my meter's neon blue backlighting) used in tandem sure conveys a true professional image. Also, place your meter leads in the splitter's receptacles and you can measure voltage and current draw simultaniously. Customers love it.

That and a major tool junkie here.


#304932 Refrigerant Recovery Machine. Which one?

Posted by Radio Loco on 06 October 2014 - 02:39 AM

I'm referring to an inline filter drier on the input side to the G5. Refrigerant can act like a solvent and will collect dirt and debris while pumping out a system, which could take out the G5's (or any recovery machine) compressor. I use an inlet screen too.

Not a huge concern with indoor home appliances. Just double protection for a very expensive investment. This is the most expensive tool in the arsenal.


#304517 Kenmore 795.71023.010 Compressor not running

Posted by Radio Loco on 30 September 2014 - 02:41 PM

Did you closely inspect main pcb for obvious fried components? Either way it is now prime suspect due to the power company induced surges. Always protect your appliances with surge protecors if it has a pcb in it. I would say your neighbors are experiecing the same fall-out.

See page 47 (lower right corner) of manual for light explanation.

Did you ohm out the the PO and CO compressor contacts to ground as vee8power stated above? You should read infinite resistance on the meter.

And you did verify you ordered the correct inverter (A or E) depending on the flavor of your particular compressor?

By process of elimination (swapping inverter, checking amp draws and voltage/resistance checks), you have logically narrowed it down to the main pcb. I would be hesitant to call it a sealed system problem at this time, but the next step would be to replace the main pcb to rule that out.

You can order the main pcb EBR67348003 thru this site, which is a direct link to Appliance Parts Pros, but they have a 5-6 day lead time.


#304463 Kenmore 795.71023.010 Compressor not running

Posted by Radio Loco on 30 September 2014 - 04:20 AM

By pushing the test button 3 times, you put frig into defrost mode. That's why everything shut off.

Did you let system run for at least 10 minutes after powering on? What exactly is the blinking light sequence? The light going off after power on is normal operation.

By what you are describing, the compressor is on and running (drawing amps) and your resistance is right on at 6.5ohms. It may be an inefficient compressor.

80 - 180 vac is normal inverter output to compressor PO and CO only.

Did you check the capacitor at CN203 pins 1 & 5 for 10uf? Check cap with connector removed from inverter.


#304335 How to Test the Evaporator and Condenser Fan Motors in a GE Refrigerator with...

Posted by Radio Loco on 27 September 2014 - 10:26 PM

In addition to my MW122A power supply, I made this test jig for the GE BLDC 4-wire evaporator and condenser fan motors. After watching Samurai's video, I wanted to see if I could come up with something to eliminate the jumper wire and battery connection wires. This will plug into the front of the J2 connector, instead of back-probing it.

 

Specs:

1.) "C"-size battery holder. Removed top wire lead. I left bottom spring in for tension.
2.) Heavy duty 9vdc battery terminal snap connector.
3.) Craft magnet (130 gauss rating). Cut to back of holder size. Can hang on frig while testing, kind of like a meter mag hanger.
4.) 20 awg wire: white, red, yellow. 9 inches long.
5.) SPST switch.
6.) Male split-end Molex open barrel contacts. Not sure on size but they have a tight fit on my WX05X1499 harness.
7.) Heat shrink: 1/8" and 3/16".
8.) 20 awg non-insulated butt splice.
9.) Velcro strip.
10.) Duracell 9V battery.

 

I cut a rectangular hole in the top of the battery holder for the on/off switch. Drilled a small feed-thru hole for the red wire. Soldered the positive wires to switch and heat shrinked. Butt spliced red and yellow wires.

 

Output on red and yellow wires (each to white negative wire) = +9.68vdc.

 

One thing to note is test jig wire color coding matches frig J2 connector color coding -- except pink condenser wire. Don't have any pink wires in the garage :( . So plug and play.

 

I plan on making a standalone test harness for the MW122A power supply also.

 

One way to spend a few hours on a rainy day.

Attached File  GE1.jpg   78.76KB   0 downloads

 

Attached File  GE2.jpg   109.88KB   0 downloads




#303903 oven temperature probe

Posted by Radio Loco on 22 September 2014 - 10:47 PM

Wow, missed it completely. It will work fine.


#302399 25370151010 Kenmore Room A/C

Posted by Radio Loco on 02 September 2014 - 01:49 PM

Need to post your request in the "appliance repair manual request" section on home page.


#302371 Appliance Life Expectancy Article

Posted by Radio Loco on 02 September 2014 - 12:16 AM

In other words, job security :).


#301857 Help Selecting A New VOM For Appliance Repair?

Posted by Radio Loco on 25 August 2014 - 08:34 PM

Is a "megger kit" crucial for diagnosing an issue with compressor windings or can this be accomplished with a good quality VOM?


Yes the megger is the best way to check for compressor winding insulation breakdown ie., an inefficient compressor or nuisance trips.

However, a meter will show a winding when you have a "hard" short to ground.

I think I know what your next question is Squeaky ;). I recommend the Fieldpiece megger. Small and compact. And mine has worked nicely for years. But again, do your homework.


#301830 Harbor Freight Non-Contact Infrared Thermometer

Posted by Radio Loco on 25 August 2014 - 01:31 PM

I don't know, that Fluke sure is sexy. Just the "shiney tool" syndrome taking over my brain again. It makes my Craftsman 50455 seem so inferior now. Thanks DA, now I have IR thermometer envy. And there goes this month's budget, again :).

I look at it this way..... if you spend a little more now on your test equipment, the tools that help you accurately diagnose the appliance (which make you money), then it's a no brainer. Harbor Freight is probably not the way to go.

Stay cheap on your common hand tools, you can always upgrade later. But choose and buy wisely on your test equipment.


#301628 Help Selecting A New VOM For Appliance Repair?

Posted by Radio Loco on 22 August 2014 - 01:44 PM

That's a pretty good set-up. Decent price too.

I would recommend buying a couple hi-temp K type probes for your oven calls.

Having a true rms meter when troubleshooting circuit boards is the best way to go. Check this out to get a better understanding. Right from the Fluke brainiacs.

http://www.fluke.com...ue-rmsfacts.htm


#301244 Bypassing the Factory-Default Rinse Water Level Setting in a Washer

Posted by Radio Loco on 17 August 2014 - 11:56 PM

Again, excellent video. Did not know this. Thanks.

BTW, those government standards make me want to torch a humongous pile of black tires every April 22nd.


#296491 Lunatic Fringe

Posted by Radio Loco on 16 June 2014 - 08:52 PM

Sounds like you may have a stuck x, y, or z axis. Or a combination there of.

Perhaps it's time to bust out the test set.

Did you check your tech sheet?





FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics