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Radio Loco

Member Since 24 Feb 2013
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 05:34 PM

#314966 "Started By" link made double-clickable.

Posted by Radio Loco on 07 March 2015 - 04:47 PM

Is it possible to make the "started-by" author double clickable and keep the topic title single clickable?

Due to a fat finger tip and/or fat stylus, I unintentionally select the author instead of the title alot of times.

Using small 'droid tablet here. They closely sit right on top of each other.

Thanks for your consideration.


#313011 Suction/Discharge pressures equal

Posted by Radio Loco on 09 February 2015 - 12:49 AM

Manufacturer and model number ?

I would not recommend opening the sealed system until you logically troubleshoot the system first.


#312529 Tight spots video/still camera for inspecting just about anything

Posted by Radio Loco on 02 February 2015 - 12:51 AM

That is pretty darn cool ! It could be used on dryer vents, finding leaks under DW's, and washer leaks. I'm sure there are countless uses for it.....on the job, around the house, working on the truck, etc.

skintdigit, awesome modifications. Great American ingenuity!

Got to add this to the want list.

Wonder if it can be adapted to use on a 'droid tablet?


#312454 Hey guys, recently given a Maytag MDG11PDAAL stack coin-op dryer need coin tr...

Posted by Radio Loco on 31 January 2015 - 08:15 PM

You can try here:

http://www.monarchcoin.com/

or here:

http://www.summitparts.com/


#311799 Wiring for a furnace blower motor

Posted by Radio Loco on 23 January 2015 - 12:05 AM

Transformer not needed. Power source is 115VAC. Hot, neutral, ground, and speeds are dependent on how that particular motor is wired. Check the part number and manufacturer and google it for the technical data, if possible.

And you will need to fuse the circuit properly or install a circuit breaker for this fan (by amperage). This MUST be done or you will have a fire hazard. Do not use without a circuit protection device. It should be on its own circuit with nothing else on it.

RUN cap needed. Looks old, but if you have a capacitance tester, it would be a good idea to test it. (Microfarad).

Looks like a 3 speed. Can you get your eyeballs on the motor spec sticker or is beneath the mounting belly-band? It may have the simple wiring schematic on it, most do. Then wire it to a 3 speed switch. An evaporative cooler switch (swamp cooler) should work fine as long as the amps and voltage rating are correct. And make sure you ground the fan motor properly and to NEC specs.

How are you going to secure it in the vent system? These vibrate a good amount.

This is general motor information. Each motor is different, so you need to do the research.


#310229 Kenmore/GE Fridge Model #363.59499990 Leaking

Posted by Radio Loco on 29 December 2014 - 02:51 AM

Use the "Parts Search" box above your topic title.

Water inlet valve Part number: Part number: WR57X10022

Part number: WR57X10022



There's a 365 day no hassle return policy. Even if part was installed.

Just can't beat that deal !




#310034 Maytag MGR6775BDB18

Posted by Radio Loco on 24 December 2014 - 02:28 AM

Take a clean pan and set it on one of the burners. Is there black soot on the pan bottom, after a few minutes? If so, gas/air mixture is off. Check the cleanliness of the burners. Then follow how to adjust that models mixture.

Are they constantly running a humidifier anywhere in the house? Is the house sealed up for the cold, dry winter? It's screwy, but they will actually starve the NG's combustion process of oxygen, producing the yellow flame.


#309711 Fisher Paykel DD603 solenoid clicking and soft beeping

Posted by Radio Loco on 17 December 2014 - 06:59 PM

Check the lid motor connectors on the power filter for corrosion and proper seating/orientation/wire-terminal crimp integrity (give a gentle tug). They should be the 2 or 3 pin connectors on the EMI board. If corroded, give them a good shower with contact cleaner and an acid brush or tooth brush. Power removed first, of course.

Then check that the lid actuators are assembled correctly on the slides and yokes (for both drawers, especially the top). Replace them if they appear slow. This may be the clicking noise you are hearing.

Also check all connectors on the main pcb for corrosion and proper seating/orientation.

Do you need to push the power button to open a drawer?


#308984 Amprobe Line Splitter

Posted by Radio Loco on 06 December 2014 - 01:40 PM

I have the Extech version and use in conjunction with the Kill-a-Watt as DA describes.

As far as customer perceived "wow factor" goes, the Kill-a-Watt, line splitter, and digital multimeter (I even turn on my meter's neon blue backlighting) used in tandem sure conveys a true professional image. Also, place your meter leads in the splitter's receptacles and you can measure voltage and current draw simultaniously. Customers love it.

That and a major tool junkie here.


#304932 Refrigerant Recovery Machine. Which one?

Posted by Radio Loco on 06 October 2014 - 02:39 AM

I'm referring to an inline filter drier on the input side to the G5. Refrigerant can act like a solvent and will collect dirt and debris while pumping out a system, which could take out the G5's (or any recovery machine) compressor. I use an inlet screen too.

Not a huge concern with indoor home appliances. Just double protection for a very expensive investment. This is the most expensive tool in the arsenal.


#304517 Kenmore 795.71023.010 Compressor not running

Posted by Radio Loco on 30 September 2014 - 02:41 PM

Did you closely inspect main pcb for obvious fried components? Either way it is now prime suspect due to the power company induced surges. Always protect your appliances with surge protecors if it has a pcb in it. I would say your neighbors are experiecing the same fall-out.

See page 47 (lower right corner) of manual for light explanation.

Did you ohm out the the PO and CO compressor contacts to ground as vee8power stated above? You should read infinite resistance on the meter.

And you did verify you ordered the correct inverter (A or E) depending on the flavor of your particular compressor?

By process of elimination (swapping inverter, checking amp draws and voltage/resistance checks), you have logically narrowed it down to the main pcb. I would be hesitant to call it a sealed system problem at this time, but the next step would be to replace the main pcb to rule that out.

You can order the main pcb EBR67348003 thru this site, which is a direct link to Appliance Parts Pros, but they have a 5-6 day lead time.


#304463 Kenmore 795.71023.010 Compressor not running

Posted by Radio Loco on 30 September 2014 - 04:20 AM

By pushing the test button 3 times, you put frig into defrost mode. That's why everything shut off.

Did you let system run for at least 10 minutes after powering on? What exactly is the blinking light sequence? The light going off after power on is normal operation.

By what you are describing, the compressor is on and running (drawing amps) and your resistance is right on at 6.5ohms. It may be an inefficient compressor.

80 - 180 vac is normal inverter output to compressor PO and CO only.

Did you check the capacitor at CN203 pins 1 & 5 for 10uf? Check cap with connector removed from inverter.


#303903 oven temperature probe

Posted by Radio Loco on 22 September 2014 - 10:47 PM

Wow, missed it completely. It will work fine.


#302399 25370151010 Kenmore Room A/C

Posted by Radio Loco on 02 September 2014 - 01:49 PM

Need to post your request in the "appliance repair manual request" section on home page.


#302371 Appliance Life Expectancy Article

Posted by Radio Loco on 02 September 2014 - 12:16 AM

In other words, job security :).





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