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LI-NY Tech

Member Since 30 Mar 2013
Offline Last Active Today, 03:08 PM

#317623 Got my AllDolly

Posted by LI-NY Tech on 12 April 2015 - 08:55 AM

Mine just arrived the other day. I'm very impressed with the construction of it, really high quality.  I look forward to using it.




#317009 F&P DD24DDFTX6 Dish drawer

Posted by LI-NY Tech on 04 April 2015 - 07:00 AM

I believe most dishwashers in general will keep some water in the sump area. I'm pretty sure they don't completely drain all the water.

 

That's true Bryan, they're using centrifugal pumps and need to leave water to keep the pump primed. They simply can't pump all the water out, it's not possible.  The centrifugal pump needs a constant supply of water to work, the only way all the water would get pumped out is if the pump could move air to clear the line, which of course it can't, or if they used a gravity drain.  The same idea applies to clothes washers.

 

Centrifugal Pumps and Cavitation




#317007 F&P DD24DDFTX6 Dish drawer

Posted by LI-NY Tech on 04 April 2015 - 06:56 AM

Yes, they leave a little bit of water under the filter.  That's normal.  




#316891 thermidor stove

Posted by LI-NY Tech on 02 April 2015 - 09:00 PM

Yes, the fuse should have continuity.  But you'll need to find out why the fuse is blown.  Door switches are common culprits for blown fuses.




#316801 Got my AllDolly

Posted by LI-NY Tech on 02 April 2015 - 06:27 AM

My All Dolly is on the way.  Can't wait to use it.




#316546 Wolf oven SO30F/S - relay stuck

Posted by LI-NY Tech on 30 March 2015 - 04:02 PM

I found the convection roast relay burnt, although not stuck (problem was intermittent on convection roast cycle).  For comparison I checked the bake relay, which was also burnt, but not as bad.  See image of convection roast relay below.  Replaced relay board 817752.  I'll wait a few days before claiming this is resolved because she needs to cook with it for the real test, but based on the condition of the relay I'm fairly certain it's fixed.

 

qrfaxk.jpg

 

For comparison - bake relay and below that pizza element relay (which gets zero use):

 

33oh0ma.jpg

 

i4e142.jpg




#316183 Hot point refrigerator m/ hss25ifmd

Posted by LI-NY Tech on 24 March 2015 - 06:48 AM

Yes, Justin is correct.  The board will turn on "liner protection" mode and run the fan even when it's turned off.  

 

Liner Protection Mode
 
The liner protection mode will activate if either of
the doors have been open for 3 minutes. This
mode will start the fans and close the damper.
This mode is controlled by 2 timers. Timer #1
monitors door-open time. A 3-minute door-open
count begins when the door is opened. If 3
minutes elapse before the door is closed, the liner
protection mode will become active. Once the
door is closed, timer #1 resets and liner protection
mode goes into standby.
 
In standby, normal fan and damper operations
resume and timer #2 begins a 3-minute doorclosed
count. If 3 minutes elapse without a door
opening, liner protection mode will completely
deactivate. If a door is opened within the timer #2
door-closed count, the remaining time in the doorclosed
count will be deducted from the timer #1
door-open count.

 




#316105 Sub Zero model 550 has icing in rear of refrigerator and is warm

Posted by LI-NY Tech on 22 March 2015 - 08:14 AM

If you have ice, as opposed to frost, on your evap then you have a sealed system problem and will need to call in a pro, the materials for that job are not available without a license and requires a high degree of skill.

The fresh food section doesn't have a defrost system on this model. If you have light frost check the evap fan (and fan switch) as well as the door seal.

The fresh food and freezer are essentially two separate systems. You probably have a sealed system problem in the FF section, that's common for this model.


#315961 Miele DW G863+ - Help me verify my diagnosis

Posted by LI-NY Tech on 20 March 2015 - 05:00 PM

Update:  Top solo valve (Part number 5268871) resolved the issue.  By the way, although it's called a top solo valve everywhere in the tech literature, parts department wants to call it a circulation valve.

 

In any case, the first image is the new top solo valve in the normal position, ie top solo option not selected.  The plunger holds the ball in place allowing water to flow through to the lower spray arm (0.68K ohms through the solenoid).

 

 

wclked.jpg

 

 

This image is the old, broken TSV, showing the ball out of place, which is also where the bball would be if top solo was selected, blocking the water path to the lower spray arm, held in place by pressure out of the circ pump..  That is the correct orientation of the TSV, it looks like the ball simply falls back into place on the bottom once the water pressure has been reduced, allowing the plunger to hold it again.

 

 

34yvc4j.jpg

 

 

TSV disassembled.  The plunger is broken, that collar should be against the casing.  The resistance is good though, 0.675K ohms.

 

2qa8rwo.jpg




#315690 Problems with Whirlpool Fridge #gb2fhdxws04

Posted by LI-NY Tech on 18 March 2015 - 06:24 AM

Are you certain the defrost system is working?




#315646 Whirlpool SF315PEGW1 Igniter not Glowing

Posted by LI-NY Tech on 17 March 2015 - 05:28 PM

Test for voltage with the igniter plugged in. The control might supply 120vac but drop lower when there is a load.


#315629 Miele DW G863+ - Help me verify my diagnosis

Posted by LI-NY Tech on 17 March 2015 - 04:29 PM

No need to be a Miele specialist for this, all the relevant info is included below.  You certainly know as much about this particular problem as I do.  Also a good schematic skills exercise.

 

I was out on a Miele dishwasher this afternoon, G863 SCVI Plus.  The complaint is the bottom rack is not cleaning.  I found the lower spray arm not turning at all.  The spray arm is not clogged, the filters are not clogged.  This model has a "top solo" option which blocks the water to the lower spray arm, allowing only the upper spray arms to operate.  There is a "top solo" valve (TSV) which is used to accomplish this.  It is an electromagnet that releases a ball into the water path which is held against the TSV outlet by the water pressure coming out of the circ pump.  I found nothing blocking or clogging the TSV.  I found the ball within the valve loose.  I found 120VAC to the valve, momentarily, only when the "top solo" option was selected.  I found resistance through the valve circuit, Miele does not offer specs for that.  

 

So, to be sure I was diagnosing correctly I called Miele tech support.  The first tech essentially told me just replace the TSV, that it couldn't be tested.  I called back after leaving the house, the second tech told me it's testable through a component test (which is true).  He also said that the ball should only be free when power is applied, that without power it should be held in place by the TSV solenoid.  He also said that the TSV should read infinite ohms when not powered.  Only part of that made sense to me so I double checked the schematic, it looks like the TSV circuit should never be "open", but the voltage supply is switched by the electronic.  So I think he was incorrect about reading infinite ohms without power applied.  It does make sense that the ball should only be free when top solo is selected, but I'm not certain that power needs to be applied to release the ball or if power should be applied to hold the ball.  Based on the voltage readings I think it's likely true that voltage is applied to release the ball, because I found 120VAC to the valve for just a moment once the circ pump started running (with top solo option selected), which leads me to believe that the TSV is powered for just long enough to release the ball once there is enough water pressure to hold it against the TSV outlet,

 

So, I've diagnosed this as a bad TSV because the ball is always free, and that's what I've ordered.  I just want to verify that with you guys to be sure I've not misdiagnosed this and actually have a problem with the electronic.  See TSV description and schematic below.  Please forgive my long winded description.

 

nlbxwj.jpgftf1w4.jpg




#315545 LG DLG2524 Gas Dryer; heats but doesn't get hot

Posted by LI-NY Tech on 16 March 2015 - 12:04 PM

Disconnect the vent from the back of the dryer and run a cycle. That will tell you if the vent is the problem.


#315511 LG French door Model# LFX25974ST/01

Posted by LI-NY Tech on 15 March 2015 - 07:38 PM

From the LG QSR:

 

Refrigerator: Er IS Ice Maker Sensor Error - Article 6864
====================================

Check for loose connection
Yes: Reconnect

No: Step Two
Power off
Disconnect Ice Maker sensor connector and measure value.
Is resistance within spec?
Test Point Result
(GY to GY) 6 ~ 150 K ohm
No: Replace icemaker



Yes: Step Three
Measure resistance between
(GY to GY) of Housing-A. Is resistance correct?
Test Point Result
(GY to GY) 6 ~ 150 k ohm
No: Replace icemaker

Yes: Step Four
Reconnect and Power ON. 
If Er IS occurs again, replace main PCB.

 




#315464 Whirlpool WFW9450W F21 After Cleaning drain

Posted by LI-NY Tech on 14 March 2015 - 04:44 PM

F21 indicates a long drain time.  You'll need to check a few things.  Suds - what type of and how much detergent are you using?  Excess suds will cause this error, far and away the most common cause of all kinds of drainage issues (see HERE for why).  If no suds, check the condition of the drain pump impeller, if the trap was clogged the impeller may have been damaged.  Check the pressure switch tube for clogs down where it connects to the bellows that goes to the pump.  If that is gunked up it could cause this problem.  And of course, check the whole length of the drain hose for blockages.







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