What I know to be true about Bosch Dishwashers: The average age is about 10 years old when we work on them. Compared to Frigidaire, Whirlpool, and the occasional Maytag, which are about 5-7 years old. The Samsungs and LGs tend to be 5 or less years old.
Just went out on a samsung sxs, had a huge surge at customers house. We checked the Inverter board and the control board... Control looked besides the blown fuse, and the inverter was shot. Replaced inverter and changed fuse on the control. Plugged back in, nothing. No power anywhere. Took the lower back panel and there was a filter board, blown out. Bypassed temporary, and got the fridge going.
So, check behind the lower panel too. These Samsungs have more PCB than the space shuttle!
We have had more machines give all sorts of symptoms and the root cause had been the shift actuator. With this style machine, you basically have to throw logic out the door. Whirlpool has, just look at the price they want for the main control board.....
Washer wasn't spinning and found that the wax motor was bad and the r11 thermisistor was burnt. I was looking at getting the thermisitor to repair the board and most thing say to replace r11 and q6. The q6 triac doesn't look burnt at all but I was wondering if I should replace it anyway since it is only around 8 dollars. Also I was wondering if anyone had experience repairing the r11 on this board.
Thanks for reading and thanks for any input
Also, not a thermistor, but rather a resistor. hence the "r" in r11.
This is my supervisor's favorite machine. This is the only machine he collects used parts. Everything else gets recycled. He has attempted to repair the board a few times, haven't be successful yet. Like Samurai suggest, replace the board, along with the wax motor.
How do you know that the used timer doesn't have the same problem? Or worse, a different problem? This machine gets a lot of used, contact closing and opening every wash, many washes a day. Chaulk it to wear and tear. I'd put in a new timer. No monkeying around buying used ones.
Yes it will not unlock. I did replace the wax motor and the relays showed no signs of damage or burn outs. If I manually press the off button after about five min. The wax motor releases and allows me to open the washer door.
The wax motor is designed to stay locked for about a minute after voltage is no longer being applied. If it continues to be locked, for five mins, rather than a minute:
A.) check to see if voltage is still present at the wax motor after you cancel the load.
B.) Make sure the new wax motor is installed properly and everything is latching/unlatching easily.
C.) At the wax motor, there is no voltage at the end of the load or after canceling, and it remains locked much longer than 1 minute, you may have a defective part.
A GFCI protection device operates on the principle of monitoring the imbalanced of current between the circuits ungrounded (hot) and grounded (neutral) conductor. An interesting point about these devices is that despite their name - they will operate on a circuitwithout a ground. In a typical 2-wire circuit, the current returning to the power supply will be equal to the current leaving the power supply (except for some small leakage). If the difference between the current leaving and returning through the current transformer of the GFCI protection device exceeds 5 mA (+ - 1 mA), the solid-state circuitry opens the switching contacts and de-energizes the circuit (Figure 1).
Well Durham saying it was enough for me alone. I was just looking for more understanding of how and why the gfi would trip.
I know it looks for voltage changes between supply and neutral. Since a heating element is kinda like a short I was wondering if that is caused it to trip. But, it that were the case seems like toasters, and space heaters would also trip them?
Hell I dunno, just couldn't find a short in the dishwasher.
Wrong. GFCI measures current. They are designed to trip when there is a difference of current from the hot to neutral also known as a ground fault. Example. Circuit is drawing 5 amps. Neutral should also measure 5 amps. If there is 5 amps on the hot and only 4 on the neutral, GFCI will trip. The current is finding a different path back to its source. Mike Holts GFCI book is a great tool to learn more about GFCIs.
It's about 5-6 years old. It's making a lot of sense now, because we had a party this past weekend and my lovely wife had set it to fast ice on Sunday. We noticed the problem on Monday morning. This is the first and only time I have ever had this happen. Cooler weather=colder input water=less energy to freeze. Add to that the whole fast ice thing and bingo! Frozen line! Any expert advice on how to salvage what's in the freezer short of get a cooler and cook what you have to? Maybe just take the door outside and cut a piece of thick rigid insulation and shove it where the door was.
On some models, you may be able to used a quicker method. Using a blow dryer along the outside along the hinge side. It works about 50% of the time. The down side, you want to apply minimum heat to the door gasket.
The connector was lose, I had replaced the heat element that burned out, and slid the connector on, not really paying attention (will now) on how easy it slid on. It was weaken from heat, I pinched it back tight. This time it didn't just slide on.
Also any discoloration of the terminal ends. It is usually caused by a loose connection, ie weak spot in the circuit, more resistance=heating up where it shouldn't be. The wire would need a new terminal end. One of the many things we inspect while looking at any appliance.
I've only seen one or two of these so bare with me. I believe there a couple of screws on top, that need to come out. The control panel needs to come out too. (I think) There is a access panel below the control panel, above the washer. From there, you just need to take it apart from the front.... just one screw at a time.