Jump to content



Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.


Parts Search
Site Search

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


To get started, click here.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


MicaBay

Member Since 15 Apr 2013
Offline Last Active Today, 12:44 PM

#312168 Cause of oven element shorting

Posted by MicaBay on Yesterday, 11:59 PM

After watching the pinned thread on oven element arcing and sparking, Ours is doing the same thing (however we didn't try to shock ourselves and hit the breaker as soon as it happened.) One of the things I noticed is that it arcs and sparks even when the over is off - IE as soon as I flip the breaker on it starts arcing.

Is my issue just replacement of the element or do I have a deeper root cause and will only fry a new element upon installation?

Thanks in advance
dean


Most likely you only need an element. Once or twice in the last 20 years has it also done damage to the computer board.

Once you have the new element installed, power off while installing, make sure your control will cycle the element off. Set the temp at 200 and let it preheat. It should shut off after about 5 mins.... Depending on which model you have.


#311965 Got my AllDolly

Posted by MicaBay on 25 January 2015 - 10:42 AM

So how you liking the all dolly? I'm thinking of buying one just not sure how use full it will really be. Worth the cash?

YES!!! I got mine 3 months ago, used from one of our computers who was retiring....   used it multiply times.... Even was able to install a mag tube on a mw mounted on a wall oven in less than an hour in and out the door (diagnose and repair same daY!




#311630 MAH3000AWW and MAH4000AWW

Posted by MicaBay on 21 January 2015 - 12:05 AM

Recently did this job  for a lady who loved this machine.  This is the second time she had had the bearings replace.  These older neptunes had a lot of problems, but once they were resolved they are a fairly solid machine.  If someone where to pay cash to repair the bearings on a front loader, these are the machines to do it on.

 

Part number: AP4324795

Part number: AP4324795




#311188 MD# YMEDB850WQ0 Bravos Dryer leaves clothes damp

Posted by MicaBay on 15 January 2015 - 09:26 AM

Over time the sensing bars tend to get build up of a clear layer of fabric softer.  Grabbing a green scrubby and a little elbow grease on both those bars usually does the trick.  The service mode and test 5 would revile this problem as Samurai is pointing to the most likely cause.  Some machines don't have good service mode test like this machine.  On those select few machines, i would put a meter and check resistance on each end of the same sensing bar. Repeat for other sensing bar.  It should be almost 0 ohms.  If you are getting higher readings, coating of crud is there.

Good Luck and keep us posted

MicaBay




#311052 Kenmore 80 series top load washer: water fills but motor won't run

Posted by MicaBay on 12 January 2015 - 09:35 AM

We have a Kenmore 80 series washer that recently quit working. It will fill with water when we try to start a load, but the timer doesn't seem to advance.  And when we try to start it mid way through in agitate or spin, nothing happens, not even a motor sound. The motor doesn't show any signs of having burned out as in no smell or melted wires. Could our problem be in the timer knob?  We have been able to verify that the lid switch works through a continuity test. We were confused how to apply that same test to the more complicated wiring of the other dials or even the motor.

 

Does anyone have ideas of how to troubleshoot this?

 

Thanks!

There are many techs that can help trouble shoot your problems, but we need a model number to look up a schematic or wiring diagram to help instruct you on which points to test on your timer.




#311022 Back of dryer getting HOT

Posted by MicaBay on 11 January 2015 - 03:49 PM

The the opp of the thread, I would  be checking the front glides to see if there is anyspace in the front of the drum and the felt glides.  If so you have a reduction in airflow across the heater itself which will contribute to the heater area getting hotter.  This is because of air leakage at the front of the drum.  The air is getting sucked in from the front of the drum rather than through the heater assembly.  The exhaust would still have good airflow.

 

With the dryer assembled reach in and lift up the front of the drum.  How much does it go up and down in the front?  If there is play (more than 1/8") I would replace the front glides.  Here is a kit that comes with all needed for that kinda repair.

 

Part number: AP3958954

Part number: AP3958954




#310507 Dryer Venting UL2158a

Posted by MicaBay on 02 January 2015 - 06:59 PM

We use the same flexible vent hose that you are using.  We almost never install more than two feet.  We are constantly replacing the semi-rigid flexible venting due to being a one time use/crush.  The flexible hose doesn't stay crushed liked the semi-rigid.  Also, the flexible hose can be easily cut to a shorter length where the semi rigid tends to be a fixed length.




#310376 Exhaust-sized punchout on side of GE PCVH480EKW0W dryer

Posted by MicaBay on 31 December 2014 - 12:35 PM

Most gas and electric dryers are formed in the same factory, using the same cabinet parts.  Just because there is a punch out in the cabinet for a side vent kit, on a gas dryer notably, doesn't mean you can put a side vent into that specific model.  Ask me how I know!   :turned:




#310000 Mangled Dryer Electric Receptacle causing No Heat and No Drum Light

Posted by MicaBay on 23 December 2014 - 10:18 AM

Incorrect outlet, will work for a range. Electrician definitely had one to many sake!

How so?  It is a 30 amp 240 volt outlet, which is commonly used in most electric dryer circuits in the states.  You want to use a 40 amp or higher rated circuit for a range.




#309208 Kenmore 110.86407120

Posted by MicaBay on 09 December 2014 - 10:21 PM

Good air flow is always subjective. Has a customer tell me he they had good airflow today... I'd be willing to say it was over 75% reduced. Does the airflow feel much different when at the back of the dryer with vent disconnected vs outside connected?


#308970 general electric wall oven jkp26gop2bg

Posted by MicaBay on 06 December 2014 - 10:54 AM

F3 means open temp sensor. The sensor should read around 1080 ohms at room temp. Which means the codntrol thinks it readings are off drastically. That would include the control, the wiring or the sensor itself.


#308968 >>>KENMORE DISHWASHER NO POWER<<< mod: 665.13742k60

Posted by MicaBay on 06 December 2014 - 10:24 AM

IT has been on the tech sheets.  Usually can be found by taking the bottom  cover off and attached to the cover itself.  Common for these touch pads/user interfaces to go bad.  We have changed at least 10 of them in the last year.




#308765 K/A Range KERC607HBS6

Posted by MicaBay on 03 December 2014 - 09:14 AM

Yup  Right side panel, as in next to the front Right and Rear Right Burners..... Took about 45 mins to find a shorted bake element on the one I was working on about 3 weeks ago, (my knowledge wouldn't be here if this thread was started 3 weeks and one day ago) and another 15- 20 mins to figure out how to get it out....  I never did figure out how to access the control board to take measurements.... if it wasn't for the physical damage done to the element itself, i may not have been able to get a positive diagnosis.  

 

 

http://www.appliance...erc607hbs6.html

 

Number 14 is on the left side, being called a Fan Support by Whirlpool, is on the wrong side.  Don't take the side (left) off that #14 is on.




#308738 Won't reach Pre Heat Temp 790.96512406

Posted by MicaBay on 02 December 2014 - 10:17 PM

Try part 316419500 for the overlay.  Google image search of said part number brings up the same style over lay but different color (Black) but much much cheaper.... I'd get it from Appliance Parts Pros, and if you don't want to use it, sent it back no questions asked.Part number: AP3770776

Part number: AP3770776




#308669 Bosch WAS24460uc drum noise

Posted by MicaBay on 02 December 2014 - 09:34 AM

F17 seems to be an Inlet valve error. In one of your updates, you say you only have cold water hooked up.  Can/have you hooked up the hot water also?

 

A tub and bearing job is very extensive as you now know.  You have almost laid you hands on every component of the machine.  I would be checking each and every connections to make sure none are loose.  Are you getting full 120VAC from the outlet you plug the machine into?







FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics