Been there done that, got the T-shirt to prove it. Make sure you can get the basket off the shaft before you be ordering parts. May need the basket too... but these here are the parts we needed and used the one time we did this job Part number: wh01x10618
1. Chances are the pump has failed. 2. These pumps aren't that strong to begin with. 3. Using a shop vac on the end of the drain hose, does water freely drain out? If not, you need to take the rest of the drain hoses apart and look for blockage. Most likely at the 90* elbow that the sump hose is attached to (the one touching the tub)
Yes, Usually in preheat the convection fan runs (in convection mode). In preheat for the regular bake it should not.
. I'm not sure on this specific model but there are gE ranges/oven that will use the convection during the preheat, even on normal non-convection bake. They usually cycle between broil, convection and bake elements. Once desired temp is reached, it only uses the name element.
Thanks for the reply. I don't recall the manufacturer but I ordered them online and they still list them as being made by Whirlpool and a part number of AP3094251
Would a bad coil keep voltage from going to the ignitor? When the coils went bad before, the ignitor would glow but it would never provide gas. This time the ignitor doesn't glow and doesn't seem to be getting any voltage.
Ok then. This is good info. The previous statements up until this point, was looking like bad coils, which is why Aplianceman97 was going that direction. TIme to look else where...
Why isn't voltage getting there? I would measure the heat circuit at the control board and see if there is 120 volts at the two points. If there is and the two terminals for the control board, between L1 and heat terminal, then the board is your problem. I'll need a wiring diagram to give you a better more precise location to measure. Usually on these machines one wire is Red and the other is black, but no way to know for sure without a diagram or having a picture of the board.
At 2:15 mark on the video is the heat cirucit that i speak of.
I had a GE frigerator that was in a pantry closet up off the floor. Called for a defrost problem. I addressed the concern about having to pull it out to service the condenser fan possibly one day. She said no problem. She took me out to the garage where instead of sheet rock she had a sheet of plywood which was held in place with pins. She promptly pulled the plywood off & there was access to the compressor & condenser which was a foot off the floor. She had thought that one out.
Not too many people have thoughts of their own....
Make sure there isn't damage to the inner wave guide. Seen two of these frigidiares with bad mags similar to this one and if you look just above the wave guide cover, on the inner wall there may be damage.
Well if the one I ordered doesn't work out, I'll probably go with a shark. I don't really see any of them honoring a warranty if I'm not using distilled water in their product, but who knows. I could try to fix them, but I've fixed my heat guns in the past and they just don't want to go back together very well. So I said screw it. The Haan switch just broke off and was loose inside. It obviously wasn't plunging to release steam. The Mcclough, I have to squeeze it with a death grip or it doesn't want to produce. Even then sometimes it doesn't.
I use a combination of Stemer *Hann* and Hair dryer, heat gun is way too hot. The steamer isn't good for continuous use, but the hair dyer is and blows the excess stem out of the way so we can see what we was doing.