A GFCI protection device operates on the principle of monitoring the imbalanced of current between the circuits ungrounded (hot) and grounded (neutral) conductor. An interesting point about these devices is that despite their name - they will operate on a circuitwithout a ground. In a typical 2-wire circuit, the current returning to the power supply will be equal to the current leaving the power supply (except for some small leakage). If the difference between the current leaving and returning through the current transformer of the GFCI protection device exceeds 5 mA (+ - 1 mA), the solid-state circuitry opens the switching contacts and de-energizes the circuit (Figure 1).
Well Durham saying it was enough for me alone. I was just looking for more understanding of how and why the gfi would trip.
I know it looks for voltage changes between supply and neutral. Since a heating element is kinda like a short I was wondering if that is caused it to trip. But, it that were the case seems like toasters, and space heaters would also trip them?
Hell I dunno, just couldn't find a short in the dishwasher.
Wrong. GFCI measures current. They are designed to trip when there is a difference of current from the hot to neutral also known as a ground fault. Example. Circuit is drawing 5 amps. Neutral should also measure 5 amps. If there is 5 amps on the hot and only 4 on the neutral, GFCI will trip. The current is finding a different path back to its source. Mike Holts GFCI book is a great tool to learn more about GFCIs.
It's about 5-6 years old. It's making a lot of sense now, because we had a party this past weekend and my lovely wife had set it to fast ice on Sunday. We noticed the problem on Monday morning. This is the first and only time I have ever had this happen. Cooler weather=colder input water=less energy to freeze. Add to that the whole fast ice thing and bingo! Frozen line! Any expert advice on how to salvage what's in the freezer short of get a cooler and cook what you have to? Maybe just take the door outside and cut a piece of thick rigid insulation and shove it where the door was.
On some models, you may be able to used a quicker method. Using a blow dryer along the outside along the hinge side. It works about 50% of the time. The down side, you want to apply minimum heat to the door gasket.
The connector was lose, I had replaced the heat element that burned out, and slid the connector on, not really paying attention (will now) on how easy it slid on. It was weaken from heat, I pinched it back tight. This time it didn't just slide on.
Also any discoloration of the terminal ends. It is usually caused by a loose connection, ie weak spot in the circuit, more resistance=heating up where it shouldn't be. The wire would need a new terminal end. One of the many things we inspect while looking at any appliance.
I've only seen one or two of these so bare with me. I believe there a couple of screws on top, that need to come out. The control panel needs to come out too. (I think) There is a access panel below the control panel, above the washer. From there, you just need to take it apart from the front.... just one screw at a time.
My next step would be to try and find something visually obvious. Is there a loose wire connection on the moisture sensor circuit? What about a loose wire? They need to be good and tight. What about a magnet stuck on the moisture bars? If you can't find anything, try unhooking the wires going to the control board that are for the moisture sensor bars and test again. If you are getting the same results with that circuit disconnected from the control board, you may need a new board.
Well, that's the model #. Hmmmmm? Well, will check elements, find print in console...( hopefully ), see how moisture sensors tie into circuit, and go from there.
Does the customer get the same results when using in timed dry as automatic cycles? If so, the moisture sensors, wouldn't be in play here.
Any play in the blower wheel, i.e. stripped out)? Door seals, sealing well? What do(es) the heater(s) ohm out to? Any lint built up in the vent screen area? When you open the dryer up, how much lint build up do you find?
I can't find a wiring diagram for that Canadian model
unless you have one you could scan & upload somewhere
Usually long drying times indicate a Vent problem
OR would need to know what temperature cycles of the air at the Dryer Vent
Usually about 135F to 160F with an empty load
Also, the vent hose from the dryer to the wall. How long is the dryer vent run? How many 90* turns are there? Vents should be 4 inch smooth walled, no longer than 25 feet subtract 5 feet for every 90 degree turn.
You are correct in taking this door apart to gain access to blower assembly. From your description, it sounds like the blower assembly motor. Also, in some models we have found two 1/4" screws on the bottom of the door holding the cover on.
I pulled the cover and bypassed the door switch. The washer drains fine, and pauses after draining. The washer agitates, but will not spin. During spin cycle, the neither the clutch or the basket drive spin. I turned the washer off and on again, and nothing happens, motor still runs with no spinning. Sounds like I'm getting a new washer. Thanks for your assistance!
This design of washer is better than any new ones currently on the market. You are a good DIYer. If you didn't want to repair, it would even be worth it to buy a new completely assembled transmission from repairclinic.com (Rumor has it, you can even return installed parts if it doesn't fix your problem.) Or maybe there is a good used one at your local appliance reseller!
F8E1 indicates 'Long Fill'. This means that the machine is not detecting water coming into the machine from one of the valves. Because you recently moved it, I would first look very closely at the taps and make sure they are both turned back on and that the fill hoses are not kinked.
Also, are your hoses "flood safe" hoses? It is common for flood safe hoses to "trip" anytime the water supply is turned off and back on.