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MicaBay

Member Since 15 Apr 2013
Offline Last Active Today, 08:56 AM

#318544 Nd code Samsung WF330ANW/XAA - won't drain, motor hums

Posted by MicaBay on 24 April 2015 - 08:26 AM

1. Chances are the pump has failed.  2.  These pumps aren't that strong to begin with.  3.  Using a shop vac on the end of the drain hose, does water freely drain out?  If not, you need to take the rest of the drain hoses apart and look for blockage.  Most likely at the 90* elbow that the sump hose is attached to (the one touching the tub)




#317367 Jenn-air jgs9900cdb01 Slide in range

Posted by MicaBay on 08 April 2015 - 11:52 PM

Haven't had a chance to finish this one yet. Customer went on vacation for a few months. ill try to update asap.


#317350 GE Range JBP84SK1SS Bake Function Not getting Hot Enough

Posted by MicaBay on 08 April 2015 - 09:09 PM

Yes, Usually in preheat the convection fan runs (in convection mode). In preheat for the regular bake it should not.

. I'm not sure on this specific model but there are gE ranges/oven that will use the convection during the preheat, even on normal non-convection bake. They usually cycle between broil, convection and bake elements. Once desired temp is reached, it only uses the name element.


#316931 Got my AllDolly

Posted by MicaBay on 03 April 2015 - 08:51 AM

I even have room in the van for mine, folds up only about 3 inches of profile.  One of the better tools that I rarely use!




#312975 Maytag Dryer MGD9700SQ0, no heat

Posted by MicaBay on 08 February 2015 - 04:13 PM

Thanks for the reply.   I don't recall the manufacturer but I ordered them online and they still list them as being made by Whirlpool and a part number of AP3094251

 

Would a bad coil keep voltage from going to the ignitor?   When the coils went bad before, the ignitor would glow but it would never provide gas.   This time the ignitor doesn't glow and doesn't seem to be getting any voltage.

 

Thanks again.   

Ok then.  This is good info.  The previous statements up until this point, was looking like bad coils, which is why Aplianceman97 was going that direction.  TIme to look else where...  

Why isn't voltage getting there?  I would measure the heat circuit at the control board and see if there is 120 volts at the two points.  If there is and the two terminals for the control board, between L1 and heat terminal, then the board is your problem.  I'll need a wiring diagram to give you a better more precise location to measure.  Usually on these machines one wire is Red and the other is black, but no way to know for sure without a diagram or having a picture of the board.

 

At 2:15 mark on the video is the heat cirucit that i speak of.

 

AP3775548Part number: AP3775548

Part number: AP3775548




#312711 Customers "great" idea

Posted by MicaBay on 05 February 2015 - 01:03 AM

I had a GE frigerator that was in a pantry closet up off the floor.   Called for a defrost problem.  I addressed the concern about having to pull it out to service the condenser fan possibly one day.  She said no problem.  She took me out to the garage where instead of sheet rock she had a sheet of plywood which was held in place with pins.  She promptly pulled the plywood off & there was access to the compressor & condenser which was a foot off the floor.    She had thought that one out.

Not too many people have thoughts of their own....




#312565 FPHD2481KF1 - FRIGIDIARE DISHWASHER - MULITPLE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS

Posted by MicaBay on 02 February 2015 - 09:13 PM

Chat_FL....

Well, what can I say? I gotta be the dumbest person ever!
Door switches good, my plugging them back in, bad!

After all that, I didn't plug the neutral wires back in properly, one of the spades was outside of the connector!
Plugged back in, all is well!

 

Happens to the best of us. Next time you'll know where to look before making a 2nd trip....




#312520 Frigidiare Microwave FPBM189KFB - not heating

Posted by MicaBay on 01 February 2015 - 10:51 PM

milxf4.jpg

Make sure there isn't damage to the inner wave guide. Seen two of these frigidiares with bad mags similar to this one and if you look just above the wave guide cover, on the inner wall there may be damage.


#312360 Steamer

Posted by MicaBay on 30 January 2015 - 10:12 AM

Well if the one I ordered doesn't work out, I'll probably go with a shark. I don't really see any of them honoring a warranty if I'm not using distilled water in their product, but who knows. I could try to fix them, but I've fixed my heat guns in the past and they just don't want to go back together very well. So I said screw it. The Haan switch just broke off and was loose inside. It obviously wasn't plunging to release steam. The Mcclough, I have to squeeze it with a death grip or it doesn't want to produce. Even then sometimes it doesn't.

I use a combination of Stemer *Hann* and Hair dryer, heat gun is way too hot.  The steamer isn't good for continuous use, but the hair dyer is and blows the excess stem out of the way so we can see what we was doing.




#312168 Cause of oven element shorting

Posted by MicaBay on 27 January 2015 - 11:59 PM

After watching the pinned thread on oven element arcing and sparking, Ours is doing the same thing (however we didn't try to shock ourselves and hit the breaker as soon as it happened.) One of the things I noticed is that it arcs and sparks even when the over is off - IE as soon as I flip the breaker on it starts arcing.

Is my issue just replacement of the element or do I have a deeper root cause and will only fry a new element upon installation?

Thanks in advance
dean


Most likely you only need an element. Once or twice in the last 20 years has it also done damage to the computer board.

Once you have the new element installed, power off while installing, make sure your control will cycle the element off. Set the temp at 200 and let it preheat. It should shut off after about 5 mins.... Depending on which model you have.


#311965 Got my AllDolly

Posted by MicaBay on 25 January 2015 - 10:42 AM

So how you liking the all dolly? I'm thinking of buying one just not sure how use full it will really be. Worth the cash?

YES!!! I got mine 3 months ago, used from one of our computers who was retiring....   used it multiply times.... Even was able to install a mag tube on a mw mounted on a wall oven in less than an hour in and out the door (diagnose and repair same daY!




#311630 MAH3000AWW and MAH4000AWW

Posted by MicaBay on 21 January 2015 - 12:05 AM

Recently did this job  for a lady who loved this machine.  This is the second time she had had the bearings replace.  These older neptunes had a lot of problems, but once they were resolved they are a fairly solid machine.  If someone where to pay cash to repair the bearings on a front loader, these are the machines to do it on.

 

Part number: AP4324795

Part number: AP4324795




#311188 MD# YMEDB850WQ0 Bravos Dryer leaves clothes damp

Posted by MicaBay on 15 January 2015 - 09:26 AM

Over time the sensing bars tend to get build up of a clear layer of fabric softer.  Grabbing a green scrubby and a little elbow grease on both those bars usually does the trick.  The service mode and test 5 would revile this problem as Samurai is pointing to the most likely cause.  Some machines don't have good service mode test like this machine.  On those select few machines, i would put a meter and check resistance on each end of the same sensing bar. Repeat for other sensing bar.  It should be almost 0 ohms.  If you are getting higher readings, coating of crud is there.

Good Luck and keep us posted

MicaBay




#311052 Kenmore 80 series top load washer: water fills but motor won't run

Posted by MicaBay on 12 January 2015 - 09:35 AM

We have a Kenmore 80 series washer that recently quit working. It will fill with water when we try to start a load, but the timer doesn't seem to advance.  And when we try to start it mid way through in agitate or spin, nothing happens, not even a motor sound. The motor doesn't show any signs of having burned out as in no smell or melted wires. Could our problem be in the timer knob?  We have been able to verify that the lid switch works through a continuity test. We were confused how to apply that same test to the more complicated wiring of the other dials or even the motor.

 

Does anyone have ideas of how to troubleshoot this?

 

Thanks!

There are many techs that can help trouble shoot your problems, but we need a model number to look up a schematic or wiring diagram to help instruct you on which points to test on your timer.




#311022 Back of dryer getting HOT

Posted by MicaBay on 11 January 2015 - 03:49 PM

The the opp of the thread, I would  be checking the front glides to see if there is anyspace in the front of the drum and the felt glides.  If so you have a reduction in airflow across the heater itself which will contribute to the heater area getting hotter.  This is because of air leakage at the front of the drum.  The air is getting sucked in from the front of the drum rather than through the heater assembly.  The exhaust would still have good airflow.

 

With the dryer assembled reach in and lift up the front of the drum.  How much does it go up and down in the front?  If there is play (more than 1/8") I would replace the front glides.  Here is a kit that comes with all needed for that kinda repair.

 

Part number: AP3958954

Part number: AP3958954







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