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MicaBay

Member Since 15 Apr 2013
Offline Last Active Today, 12:44 AM

#303992 Whirlpool Gold GD25DIXHS02 - defrost heater 2323198

Posted by MicaBay on 23 September 2014 - 08:03 PM

I tested it on a non-GFI and then forced it into the defrost cycle, no problem the defrost heater gets hot immediately. Only problem leaving it that way is the non-GFI outlet is a drop from the ceiling in the middle of the garage and I had to use a heavy duty extension cord. I'll probably end up adding a dedicated outlet for the fridge in the garage, but I'm really curious as to whether the defrost heater is supposed to have continuity from the terminals to the outer casing. I tried calling a local appliance parts place to see I could bring a multimeter and test one before buying it but they said no.


No it should be compleatly open from the terminals to the outer casing. As you can see many techs would have dismissed the GFCI as the problem, where the heater is your main problem. Good catch!! The GFCI was jus doing the job it was designed to do.

According the the 2014 NEC (national electric code) all recepicles in the garage need to be GFCI. It would be best to check with your local miniciple code office to fine out for sure before replacing any GFCI or AFCI recepicles.


#303928 Kenmore Model 10661192100 Condenser Fan Motor?

Posted by MicaBay on 23 September 2014 - 09:19 AM

Thanks so much, Maytag1 and BrianS, for your insight.

 

The part is ordered, and should be here Wednesday. I will report on the outcome, as soon as possible.

 

Can you think of any other reason why the exterior is hot, or is the Condenser Fan a probable cause?

Could be something simple as a little critter got stuck in the fan blade.  Only way to know for sure is to get eyes in the back there. 




#302430 Kenmore gas dryer 87680100 igniter glows only sometimes

Posted by MicaBay on 02 September 2014 - 09:37 PM

The latest discovery:

If the unit is turned on, but the igniter doesn't activate, and a strategic karate chop is applied to the top of the heater box (where the hi-limit thermostat is), the igniter then decides to work.

 

So can an old surface mount thermostat be "sticky" somehow, so that may intermittently fail even if they show continuity when tested?

Where is a samurai when you need him?

Are you getting 120 volts to both sides of that cycling themostat when it set to heat, after it has sat off for a few mins (to cool any heat that may have tripod it), then restarted the dryer?  When it does decide to ignite, what does the flame look like?  Is it flowing very quickly or is it badly flowing and engulfing the burner head?




#302231 Kenmore 800 model 29822801 overfilling

Posted by MicaBay on 30 August 2014 - 03:55 PM

It could be the temperature switch, but make sure the pressure hose, which goes from the temperature switch down to the bottom of the tub isn't clogged up.  If it is clear of gunk, then that switch should be the fix.  Also,  that part is a tad cheaper from APP than repair clinic, and gives you the same or better return policy!

Part number: AP4459660

Part number: AP4459660




#302230 GE Front Load WCVH6260FWW - noisy spin cycle

Posted by MicaBay on 30 August 2014 - 03:47 PM

Take the back panel off and make sure that nut on the big pulley is tight.  I have seen once or twice where that will be loose.  If that is tight, then use you have bad bearings.... and bad bearings typically mean it is cheaper to replace the whole machine rather than repair.

Keep us in the loop to let us know

Thanks good luck,

MicaBay




#302102 Kenmore 417.40412700 will not start

Posted by MicaBay on 29 August 2014 - 08:08 AM

I was recently here and with your help I managed to get this washer repaired by replacing the control board. It worked fine for about a month but now it stopped working with new symptoms.

Now when I set it to wash and pull the knob the door lock light will turn on but no activity comes from the washer. The door is not locked despite the door lock light on. I thought it might not be sensing the incoming water pressure so I changed the water temp setting from cold to hot figuring that maybe the incoming cold water sensor was bad but the result was the same. I also changed the main control board to the old one just in case the new one went bad but no change.

My tech head is telling me the control board is not happy with some sensor or condition and it will not allow the washer to start.

Is there any test I can do to figure out what part is bad?

I would be looking closer at the door locking mechanism. Fairly common failure item on these machines.  Common enough, our company carries this part on the truck.   Part number: AP4455026

Part number: AP4455026




#301594 Jenn Air jfc2089wep2 leaking water

Posted by MicaBay on 21 August 2014 - 06:53 PM

Thanks for the quick reply:) I haven't removed the evaporator cover in the freezer and cleared the ice as I wanted to avoid this painful step ....but it seems it's a necessary evil. I take it how I placed the notched grommet makes no difference.. but I do recall a comment that the grommet was placed  too high to work properly....?

Thanks Again!

/WG

There is a very easy thing you can to instead of disassemble the back cover..... So simple....  Open the fridge door and freezer door and unplug the unit.  Let it sit for 3 or 4 days, and then plug it back in.   You will be good to go....  If this isn't an option (which most likely it isn't)  you'll be needing to remove that back cover and manually defrost that ice!

 

Good Luck

MicaBay


I froce unit into defrost n use a steamer  to defrost frozen drian after repair. Always avoiding having to dismattle freezer rails n readjusting roller cams on rails 

How do you deal with the ice ball build up on the cap tube without taking that back cover off?




#301268 Whirlpool washer WTW6800WL1, shaking

Posted by MicaBay on 18 August 2014 - 09:49 AM

Also, lift the basket and make sure there isn't too much side to side play.


#299803 Whirlpool Duet Washer W10252714A squeaks

Posted by MicaBay on 28 July 2014 - 06:10 PM

I think I am out of luck.  The drum will barely even turn now and not without grinding.  That is manually.  So to answer Thirstytech:  yes.  I watched a video on replacing the bearings (ok most of it).  Is this even possible on this model?  I am hearing no because it is all essentially one big part, so to speak.

pop the back panel off and get eyeballs on that big pulley.  look just beyond that pulley at the bearings?  do you see a trail of rust coming from the bearings?  if so, you need a new washing machine.  If so, here's the cloths washer that we get the least amount of calls on:  http://www.acehardwa...&pla=pla_964453




#299630 Maytag Neptune MDE5500AYW Moisture Sensor

Posted by MicaBay on 26 July 2014 - 02:59 PM

http://i1316.photobu...zpsnsadiyrk.jpg

http://i1316.photobu...zpswgjvngzu.jpg

Here, I spent a few minutes of my only day off this week to snap a couple photos of a Maytag Neptune Electric Dryer moisture sensors connections, just for you!

Edit: the wife wasn't pleased with me when I took her dryer apart for a photo-shoot. But that's okay, it gave me something to do besides the dishes :-)


#299038 My freezer don't seem to work

Posted by MicaBay on 18 July 2014 - 11:19 PM

"We have an old freezer that's not really cold enough" . . . . . They are great customers and great people. All I could do was scratch my head about how the hell do you defrost this thing?? It had to weigh 1000 pounds. I tried to tilt it and it wouldn't budge, I just started laughing.

:woot:  unplug it... see you two weeks from tomorrow!




#298967 Whirlpool Freezer not freezing EV160NZTQ02

Posted by MicaBay on 18 July 2014 - 08:24 AM

Thank you, that is what I did, I marked it with a sharpie and came back alter and it did not advance. I obtained a new one and replaced it. So far it appears to be working. I will need to keep an eye on the frost build up for the next few days.

Good job!  ...just too be clear, you did manually defrost all the frost yes?  If not bust out the ole defrost tools (they look very simlar to shape and build as a hair dryer, but they are) and get er done.




#298827 GE gas range JGSP28SEK4SS bake ignitor screws hard to remove

Posted by MicaBay on 16 July 2014 - 06:44 PM

Thanks for the responses, everyone! I'm going to try dish soap on the threads and tightening the screws before attempting to remove them. I'm actually looking forward to my next oven repair, now! :biggrin:

Sometimes its tight to get some soap on the thread of the screws....  be creative, use a small flat tip screw driver if need be.  It is well worth it.




#298743 GE gas range JGSP28SEK4SS bake ignitor screws hard to remove

Posted by MicaBay on 15 July 2014 - 10:40 PM

Best method yet.... dish soap, all kitchens have them, so no need to stock some on the truck.  Just add a small dab on the threaded side of the screw and work it back and forth slowly....  In the last 18 months that I've been doing appliance repair full time, we have only had to drill out one screw.....  and that was mainly because i got inpatient and forgoed the dish soap....




#298734 Jenn-Air dual fuel range JDS9865BDP -- uneven heating

Posted by MicaBay on 15 July 2014 - 09:04 PM

Thanks for the thoughts. Love that tip about the cookie sheet.

Customer was pretty frustratingly vague -- "I don't bake very often; when I was cooking cookies at Christmas I noticed the ones on one side were underdone and the ones the other were overdone." Because she waited 7 months for the service call, she didn't really remember which side was which.

I asked about the airflow because I noticed my temp probe bouncing around like crazy. Set oven for 300, first high was 375, first low was 288, second high was 356, second low was 340, etc. Normally I'd slam dunk that as a control board, (do have one on order) but it occurred to me looking at the unit that I was not sufficiently clear on how it draws air in. Didn't seem likely, but I have been very surprised before.


The very first high and low I usually dismiss because the cabinet and racks are still absorbing the heat. It's about constancy of the differntial.... Appliancman has a good blog on a different method involving a castiron pan and using the lazor tempature reader.





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