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Member Since 15 Apr 2013
Offline Last Active Today, 03:16 PM

#298743 GE gas range JGSP28SEK4SS bake ignitor screws hard to remove

Posted by MicaBay on 15 July 2014 - 10:40 PM

Best method yet.... dish soap, all kitchens have them, so no need to stock some on the truck.  Just add a small dab on the threaded side of the screw and work it back and forth slowly....  In the last 18 months that I've been doing appliance repair full time, we have only had to drill out one screw.....  and that was mainly because i got inpatient and forgoed the dish soap....

#298734 Jenn-Air dual fuel range JDS9865BDP -- uneven heating

Posted by MicaBay on 15 July 2014 - 09:04 PM

Thanks for the thoughts. Love that tip about the cookie sheet.

Customer was pretty frustratingly vague -- "I don't bake very often; when I was cooking cookies at Christmas I noticed the ones on one side were underdone and the ones the other were overdone." Because she waited 7 months for the service call, she didn't really remember which side was which.

I asked about the airflow because I noticed my temp probe bouncing around like crazy. Set oven for 300, first high was 375, first low was 288, second high was 356, second low was 340, etc. Normally I'd slam dunk that as a control board, (do have one on order) but it occurred to me looking at the unit that I was not sufficiently clear on how it draws air in. Didn't seem likely, but I have been very surprised before.

The very first high and low I usually dismiss because the cabinet and racks are still absorbing the heat. It's about constancy of the differntial.... Appliancman has a good blog on a different method involving a castiron pan and using the lazor tempature reader.

#298495 Jenn-Air dual fuel range JDS9865BDP -- uneven heating

Posted by MicaBay on 12 July 2014 - 10:53 AM

What are the temp differentials in the middle of the oven?   What baking pans do the customer use?  Once had a customer who used a cookie sheet for everything, that fit snugly in the oven... not much air flow around each of the 4 sides of the pan.  

Are the customers preheating for 20 mins or more?  (just because the computer says it is preheated, doesn't mean it actually is.)  What kind of products are they having troubles baking?  (frozen pizza vs a nice fine cake?)

#298493 Kemnore 795 510 140101 Ice maker not working

Posted by MicaBay on 12 July 2014 - 10:41 AM

What is the actual tempature of the freezer?

#297799 maytag mhwe201yw00 wont spin up high/never stops

Posted by MicaBay on 02 July 2014 - 11:30 PM


Have you checked your drum bearings?

#297792 Kenmore Fridge 106.54603300 Thermistor Test In Service Mode

Posted by MicaBay on 02 July 2014 - 10:01 PM

But the thermistor readings are not 0 for Pass. The incoming air at the diffuser is not coming in.

Is the diffuser actually opening?  You said you can hear the motor, but can you visually see the diffuser opening?  


One of the more common items to be replaced on these WP sxs are the diffusers.  Along with Icemaker/water related parts.

If you hear the motor of the diffuser running but it isn't actually opening or closing, bingo bad diffuser.


Part number: AP3084126

Part number: AP3084126

#297788 Can I wire a 4 wire receptacle to a 3 wire source?

Posted by MicaBay on 02 July 2014 - 09:24 PM

#297782 Can I wire a 4 wire receptacle to a 3 wire source?

Posted by MicaBay on 02 July 2014 - 08:46 PM

I am swapping out a gas dryer for an electric one. The plug coming out of the dryer is a 4 wire 30amp 240v plug. The receptacle on the wall is 3 wire. So I bought a 4 wire receptacle and tried to swap them out. But I found the wire coming out of the wall only had 3 wires in it: black, red and white. I.e. no green ground wire. Can I install the 4 plug receptacle and leave the ground plug empty? Or do I need to get a 3 wire plug and swap out on the dryer?


Absoultly not!  Just leave it a 3 wire receptacle...  Not only is  this creating a potentially dangerous situation, it would be a NEC (national electric code) violation.  


Go buy a three wire cord and install it properly on the dryer.  If you don't have the skill to do this, please please, please, spend a little money to protect your self and your property.

#297712 WP GX5SHTXTB01 not starting properly, pulling 30 amps at start

Posted by MicaBay on 01 July 2014 - 06:51 PM

My compressor is the embraco. We had a pretty big t-storm last night, several power outages. I just don't see how a board could impact a pretty "dumb" circuit...the fridge is only 2 yes old...since I bought a houseful, plus a w/d set for the in-laws, vendor says he will replace comp. For half price...may make it more worth it! But I've got to say, I am now concerned about this board...

Thanks a lot for your input!

Surge protectors are your friend.  I would look at either the board or the start device.  There is usually (not always, but usually) physical damage to the start devices.... take it off of the compressor and shake it.... does it sound like a baby rattle?  Yes?  bingo, replace it.... if it sounds like you are shaking a rock... look closer at the jazz board.... order both, return the one that doesn't fix your problem.  Part number: AP5787784

Part number: AP5787784

#297362 Frigidaire PLEF398ACA relay failure on Power Board

Posted by MicaBay on 26 June 2014 - 09:20 PM

Electromechanical relay failure on Power Board





My 82 year-old mom’s left front burner failed some months ago. Last night she did something with the controls and noticed that the burner came on! Then it went off. She fiddled with the controls again. At some point, white smoke was pouring out; enough so that she was quite alarmed. She called me as she tripped the circuit breaker. I opener her up (the range, not my mom) and took a look-see. I am calling it a blown relay requiring a power board replacement. 


Check out my photos and please tell me if I am on the right track, and if I've overlooked anything.


Photo link:



Main question:  What causes an electromechanical relay failure on a power board such as the one found on this range?

Using it.  Nothing you did or didn't do could prevent this from happening.  


Is Power Board replacement the correct first remedy?



(please follow link above and see shot of whole back of range)

Need I have any concern over...


1) Stain on "box"?


2) Discoloration around, and rising up from ... whatever the round thing is?


3a) Marks rising from fan motor assembly?

3b) Material dripping down from fan motor assy? (see close-up shot)


What should I ask (or do) that I have failed to ask about (or do)?


Replace the board?


Thanks in advance, 




Frigidaire Model: PLEF398ACA

Power Board: Spitfire Controls – 316239403  ESEC5 Pwr Brd

Part number: AP4499660

Part number: AP4499660

#297258 kenmore washing machine 110.92573200

Posted by MicaBay on 25 June 2014 - 11:31 PM

Ok, shortly after I posted I had a "duh" moment. The switch has a three wire connector. I put the COMM probe on the end of the middle connector which is where the green wire goes. Then the other probe on one of the other connectors. Got nothing on the meter. left the COMM probe where it was and tried the other connector. Tried both combos with the switch opened and closed, still nothing. Am I testing this wrong, or does this confirm a bad switch. Seems odd neither would give a reading.

If you were measuring for ohms or continuity on the lid switch multi connector, Good job. You just diagnosed a bad lid switch.


Part number: AP3094500

Part number: AP3094500


If you were measuring something different... stay tuned.

Sounds like you have a bad lid switch.

Could you fix the model number?  ---> 110.92573200

#297074 kenmore washer 110.21302012

Posted by MicaBay on 23 June 2014 - 10:39 PM

#296985 Ge Profile model tpx24pr, icemaker is leaking into the bottom of fridge

Posted by MicaBay on 23 June 2014 - 07:52 AM

A turkey bastor and a cup of boiling water is a great tool for defrosting those pesky drain tubes.

#296946 Maytag MVWC400XW2 how to interpret dianostic codes

Posted by MicaBay on 22 June 2014 - 02:24 PM

I think that code would be F7E5  which would indicate a shift actuator fault.

#296869 Wards refrig not cooling well model Hmg-21504

Posted by MicaBay on 21 June 2014 - 06:20 PM

Hi all
I have a Montgomery Wards refrig that has served me well for many many years ( circa 1983). it is an upright with freezer on top. model HMG-21504
The Frig / Freezer is not cold enough. Defrosted evap coils with shop vacuum exhaust air
Compressor running warm to touch say 115F (80-90F room temp) running smooth no unusual noise. It seems to start quickly.
Condersor fan & freezer fans working well, compressor over temp switch pulled from side of compressor left dangling.
Jelly roll condersor clean with very warm input (compressor side line) room temp output (capillary side line).
Defrost timer motor working contacts clean.
Defrost heating element disconnected on one side in freezer.
Frost/ ICE forming only on the first 3/4 of first evap coil line.
Question? Is it possible for compressor to loose exhaust valve? ( reed valve?)

Ice forming in 3/4 of all the Evap or only 1/4 total? Sounds like a sealed system problem. It would be cheaper to replace rather than repair...

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