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Member Since 15 Apr 2013
Offline Last Active Aug 29 2015 11:53 PM

#308669 Bosch WAS24460uc drum noise

Posted by MicaBay on 02 December 2014 - 09:34 AM

F17 seems to be an Inlet valve error. In one of your updates, you say you only have cold water hooked up.  Can/have you hooked up the hot water also?


A tub and bearing job is very extensive as you now know.  You have almost laid you hands on every component of the machine.  I would be checking each and every connections to make sure none are loose.  Are you getting full 120VAC from the outlet you plug the machine into?

#308668 Won't reach Pre Heat Temp 790.96512406

Posted by MicaBay on 02 December 2014 - 09:19 AM

Typically the most common failure on this design, is for the L2 relay to not make good contact.  This relay doesn't cycle on and off.  It is always closed (in the on position) when bake operation is selected.  With that in mind, I would measure for 240VAC From the each side of the L2 Relay with bake cycle selected.

#308411 Whirlpool gas dryer LGR7646EQ3 making scary noises

Posted by MicaBay on 28 November 2014 - 08:13 PM

Try pulling the motor shaft to the side while turning it by hand. Does it make the similar scrapping sound?

#308343 Maytag 5000 series Steam Sud, F21 & F35 codes

Posted by MicaBay on 27 November 2014 - 01:06 PM

W P tech line told me that he has dealt with this at least 400 times already. My question for him was " why haven't we seen any info about this in a service pointer bulletin ?" He had no answer. Guess W P would just screw over their authorized servicer network than admit they have screwed up!

It's not just the warrenty folks getting the shaft, us independens services are made to look like fools because of lack of service info...

#308337 K/A Range KERC607HBS6

Posted by MicaBay on 27 November 2014 - 12:47 PM

When looking at it, the right side comes off. Two screws in the back and one screw on the inside down by where the drawer is. Slide panel forward to get it off....

#308312 Cleaning the "coils" on a GE ZIS420NR

Posted by MicaBay on 27 November 2014 - 12:30 AM

It is much easier to just blow all the dust off.  You;ll more n likely need to clean house after said process, but when it needs doing it needs done.

#308228 Kenmore 110.47532600 will not accept cold water

Posted by MicaBay on 25 November 2014 - 09:01 AM

sounds like a bad cold water solenoid on the fill valve. Ohm testing is generally not definitive for valves. A stuck valve can show proper resistance. Use a cheater cord and introduce 120vac to the valve directly. If it doesn't open, replace it

uhm mm, take a closer gander at his description.

#307307 Kenmore (aka Whirlpool) 26882 Top Load Washer

Posted by MicaBay on 09 November 2014 - 12:31 AM

Another issue when I looked under the machine....it has leaked a good deal of (I assume) trans oil, most probably leaky gasket too but it spread all under the machine (around 2 ft by 2 ft).........think its about done?

Leaking? My supervisor took a used transmission and drained the oil out of it and ran it 100% empty of oil for over a year, with heavy use. Yes you can buy a brand new $500 washer but it ain't going to last you nearly as long as repairing this machine.

#306636 Kenmore 28002 Washer (WMV) completes cycle and then restarts

Posted by MicaBay on 28 October 2014 - 08:39 PM

Your machine is in a factory test, continuous run mode. Is this machine brand new?

#306168 concrete block in GGw9200LW2 Duet Dryer

Posted by MicaBay on 22 October 2014 - 08:47 AM

I believe it is meant to prevent movement of unit while tumbling. If moved to the right it will cause excessive movement or thumping.While tumbling it tosses clothing to the right.

Thanks for the insite on why they have a counter weight in this dryer.  Because most machines don't have weight added on to them I haven't seen one yet with the weight inside.

#303992 Whirlpool Gold GD25DIXHS02 - defrost heater 2323198

Posted by MicaBay on 23 September 2014 - 08:03 PM

I tested it on a non-GFI and then forced it into the defrost cycle, no problem the defrost heater gets hot immediately. Only problem leaving it that way is the non-GFI outlet is a drop from the ceiling in the middle of the garage and I had to use a heavy duty extension cord. I'll probably end up adding a dedicated outlet for the fridge in the garage, but I'm really curious as to whether the defrost heater is supposed to have continuity from the terminals to the outer casing. I tried calling a local appliance parts place to see I could bring a multimeter and test one before buying it but they said no.

No it should be compleatly open from the terminals to the outer casing. As you can see many techs would have dismissed the GFCI as the problem, where the heater is your main problem. Good catch!! The GFCI was jus doing the job it was designed to do.

According the the 2014 NEC (national electric code) all recepicles in the garage need to be GFCI. It would be best to check with your local miniciple code office to fine out for sure before replacing any GFCI or AFCI recepicles.

#303928 Kenmore Model 10661192100 Condenser Fan Motor?

Posted by MicaBay on 23 September 2014 - 09:19 AM

Thanks so much, Maytag1 and BrianS, for your insight.


The part is ordered, and should be here Wednesday. I will report on the outcome, as soon as possible.


Can you think of any other reason why the exterior is hot, or is the Condenser Fan a probable cause?

Could be something simple as a little critter got stuck in the fan blade.  Only way to know for sure is to get eyes in the back there. 

#302430 Kenmore gas dryer 87680100 igniter glows only sometimes

Posted by MicaBay on 02 September 2014 - 09:37 PM

The latest discovery:

If the unit is turned on, but the igniter doesn't activate, and a strategic karate chop is applied to the top of the heater box (where the hi-limit thermostat is), the igniter then decides to work.


So can an old surface mount thermostat be "sticky" somehow, so that may intermittently fail even if they show continuity when tested?

Where is a samurai when you need him?

Are you getting 120 volts to both sides of that cycling themostat when it set to heat, after it has sat off for a few mins (to cool any heat that may have tripod it), then restarted the dryer?  When it does decide to ignite, what does the flame look like?  Is it flowing very quickly or is it badly flowing and engulfing the burner head?

#302231 Kenmore 800 model 29822801 overfilling

Posted by MicaBay on 30 August 2014 - 03:55 PM

It could be the temperature switch, but make sure the pressure hose, which goes from the temperature switch down to the bottom of the tub isn't clogged up.  If it is clear of gunk, then that switch should be the fix.  Also,  that part is a tad cheaper from APP than repair clinic, and gives you the same or better return policy!

Part number: AP4459660

Part number: AP4459660

#302230 GE Front Load WCVH6260FWW - noisy spin cycle

Posted by MicaBay on 30 August 2014 - 03:47 PM

Take the back panel off and make sure that nut on the big pulley is tight.  I have seen once or twice where that will be loose.  If that is tight, then use you have bad bearings.... and bad bearings typically mean it is cheaper to replace the whole machine rather than repair.

Keep us in the loop to let us know

Thanks good luck,


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