Jump to content

Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

Parts Search
Site Search

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact

Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums

To get started, click here.

Already a member of Appliantology? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.



Member Since 15 Apr 2013
Online Last Active Today, 04:09 PM

#297362 Frigidaire PLEF398ACA relay failure on Power Board

Posted by MicaBay on 26 June 2014 - 09:20 PM

Electromechanical relay failure on Power Board





My 82 year-old mom’s left front burner failed some months ago. Last night she did something with the controls and noticed that the burner came on! Then it went off. She fiddled with the controls again. At some point, white smoke was pouring out; enough so that she was quite alarmed. She called me as she tripped the circuit breaker. I opener her up (the range, not my mom) and took a look-see. I am calling it a blown relay requiring a power board replacement. 


Check out my photos and please tell me if I am on the right track, and if I've overlooked anything.


Photo link:



Main question:  What causes an electromechanical relay failure on a power board such as the one found on this range?

Using it.  Nothing you did or didn't do could prevent this from happening.  


Is Power Board replacement the correct first remedy?



(please follow link above and see shot of whole back of range)

Need I have any concern over...


1) Stain on "box"?


2) Discoloration around, and rising up from ... whatever the round thing is?


3a) Marks rising from fan motor assembly?

3b) Material dripping down from fan motor assy? (see close-up shot)


What should I ask (or do) that I have failed to ask about (or do)?


Replace the board?


Thanks in advance, 




Frigidaire Model: PLEF398ACA

Power Board: Spitfire Controls – 316239403  ESEC5 Pwr Brd

Part number: AP4499660

Part number: AP4499660

#297258 kenmore washing machine 110.92573200

Posted by MicaBay on 25 June 2014 - 11:31 PM

Ok, shortly after I posted I had a "duh" moment. The switch has a three wire connector. I put the COMM probe on the end of the middle connector which is where the green wire goes. Then the other probe on one of the other connectors. Got nothing on the meter. left the COMM probe where it was and tried the other connector. Tried both combos with the switch opened and closed, still nothing. Am I testing this wrong, or does this confirm a bad switch. Seems odd neither would give a reading.

If you were measuring for ohms or continuity on the lid switch multi connector, Good job. You just diagnosed a bad lid switch.


Part number: AP3094500

Part number: AP3094500


If you were measuring something different... stay tuned.

Sounds like you have a bad lid switch.

Could you fix the model number?  ---> 110.92573200

#297074 kenmore washer 110.21302012

Posted by MicaBay on 23 June 2014 - 10:39 PM

#296985 Ge Profile model tpx24pr, icemaker is leaking into the bottom of fridge

Posted by MicaBay on 23 June 2014 - 07:52 AM

A turkey bastor and a cup of boiling water is a great tool for defrosting those pesky drain tubes.

#296946 Maytag MVWC400XW2 how to interpret dianostic codes

Posted by MicaBay on 22 June 2014 - 02:24 PM

I think that code would be F7E5  which would indicate a shift actuator fault.

#296869 Wards refrig not cooling well model Hmg-21504

Posted by MicaBay on 21 June 2014 - 06:20 PM

Hi all
I have a Montgomery Wards refrig that has served me well for many many years ( circa 1983). it is an upright with freezer on top. model HMG-21504
The Frig / Freezer is not cold enough. Defrosted evap coils with shop vacuum exhaust air
Compressor running warm to touch say 115F (80-90F room temp) running smooth no unusual noise. It seems to start quickly.
Condersor fan & freezer fans working well, compressor over temp switch pulled from side of compressor left dangling.
Jelly roll condersor clean with very warm input (compressor side line) room temp output (capillary side line).
Defrost timer motor working contacts clean.
Defrost heating element disconnected on one side in freezer.
Frost/ ICE forming only on the first 3/4 of first evap coil line.
Question? Is it possible for compressor to loose exhaust valve? ( reed valve?)

Ice forming in 3/4 of all the Evap or only 1/4 total? Sounds like a sealed system problem. It would be cheaper to replace rather than repair...

#296635 Trying to remove ice maker from Kenmore 59673503201

Posted by MicaBay on 19 June 2014 - 08:37 AM

I have to go look at one today, thanks this should help.

This is why I like these forums.  You can always search and see other tech's/DIYers problems and solutions. Learning from others mistakes, rather than just learning from your own.

#296364 MHW7000XW2 Maytag Front Load

Posted by MicaBay on 13 June 2014 - 07:01 PM

How would I go about that?

I would take a different appliance, like a toaster, and hook my meter with the little clips up to the plug.  I would check the voltage before it is turned on, and then as it is being turned on, and while running.  If voltage drops too much, you have a house wiring problem.   if only a couple of volts.... i would hunt down something different than the voltage drop.


#296210 Whirlpool WGD8300SW1 DRYER

Posted by MicaBay on 12 June 2014 - 08:26 AM

Case closed! Tech that went out prior was apparently LAZY!!! Went off his notes. Went out myself and 20 minutes later all is well. I will never believe someones elses diagnosis ever again !

Correction, your case is almost closed... you just can't leave us a hang in like this.  It puts much strain on our relationship....  We must know for future knowledge.....

#296209 part for lg fridge LSC26905TT

Posted by MicaBay on 12 June 2014 - 08:24 AM

Also, the tube must be a clean 90 degree cut... no jagged edges.  Edges with jaggs are prone to leakage.

#296153 The Revenge of the Maytag Washers

Posted by MicaBay on 11 June 2014 - 09:02 AM

OK, Whirlpool has totally got out of hand with their parts prices.  I had a Maytag Dependable Care top load washer with a totally ruined mounting stem, boot, & seal and a ruined tub bearing, but this one was down a basement  in really hard well water, and also ruined was the transmission, brake package and the lower spin bearing, so this washer was totalled. 


Then, later that day, I also get a call on a Maytag Bravos washer which I call the (fake) Bravos washer because it is nothing more than a modular vertical washer without an agitator. My customer had just bought this washer from a friend who had it in storage for about a year.  Well, sure enough, even though it was only 3 years old and only used a couple of times, the main tub seal and the bearing (the bearing is part of the gearcase) was totally ruined. $300 just in parts to fix this machine, so again another washer for the landfill.


One good thing about the old Whirlpool belt drive washers and the Whirlpool direct drive washers is that the gearcase remained stationary during the spin cycle and they didn't eat tub seals and tub bearings.

It seems to me whirlpool doesn't want appliance business to continue to repair their machines.  Their parts are priced in such a way that a DIY can get er done, but not the professional.

#296152 GE frontload WBVH5100HWW locks/unlocks/locks then fills then drains; nothing...

Posted by MicaBay on 11 June 2014 - 08:57 AM

 I couldn't reply due to my status, so I felt it time to join the ranks and finally become a professional appliantologist.  Lurking this forum has already saved more than that fee for sure. 



 Secondly, I did find the issue.  It was a gremlin, but I got it.  It wasn't that hose for the pressure differential.   The test has a mode that test the differential and it hit every point perfectly.  So I kind of thought it wasn't that.  My flow chart pointed me to the control board.   



   But when I went through the tests again, I noticed one fill solenoid was just dripping, then I tapped it and it sprayed.  So I realized that the solenoid was stopping and not allowing water to flow in.  When you energized it directly it worked.  But I did make the mistake of not taking the resistance readings, because I am sure something would have turned up.   

   So I swapped out her board, and changed her fill solenoid.  Everything is working now. 


  I'm embarrassed I missed that, but it worked when I ran it through diagnostics.   So often when these fail it's a board, but I learned two new places to check for issues when I run across this no run problem. 

I work for my Father-in-Law, who has been in the appliance service business for 30 years.  This site has saved our bacon and given us much much knowledge from me lurking around.  Welcome... enjoy the food and the company.  There is plenty to be had. 

#295875 washer is going crazy Kenmore 417.40412700

Posted by MicaBay on 07 June 2014 - 09:18 PM

Puerto Rico? :whistling:

#295858 Whirlpool WED9500TW2 won't start, "-F:02" displays solid in diag...

Posted by MicaBay on 07 June 2014 - 07:14 PM

Just to give you something to do until someone with a higher IQ than me comes along: check the fuse on the blower housing for continuity .  That one is in the motor circuit.  Part number: AP3132867

Part number: AP3132867

#295857 Sick of Not Making Any Money

Posted by MicaBay on 07 June 2014 - 07:01 PM

I also refuse to go into a customers home unless the actual homeowner is there too. I hate explaining to another person who doesn't even live at the house what's wrong or not wrong with the appliance and then he or she tries to explain it to the homeowner and they don't explain it correctly.  


I had a refrigerator still in warranty, shoved in a hole not big enough for the refrigerator in a dirty filthy house and the complaint was no water through the water dispenser and no ice, SO I killed myself trying to get the refrigerator they shoe horned in the hole out from the wall and sure enough the plastic water line going from the house water supply to the refrigerator was severely crimped, I even showed it to the lady who was there at the time. I told her the tubing is not part of the refrigerator  and therefore it is not covered under warranty. 

I also told her to tell them to go to the local hardware store and replace the flimsy plastic tubing with a braided stainless steel water line that won't crimp.  Instead, the go and replace the water filter and the lady who was there at the time calls back and tells me it's still not working. I tried to explain it to her again and she just doesn't understand and insists I come back.  THEN I get a call later in the day from the homeowner about how rude I was to the lady on the phone  and he tells me I should not be complaining about the poor install on the refrigerator and that I have a bad attitude and that they will call somebody else. 


Good ridens to customers like that, I really don't need them on stinking warranty calls that barely pay anything.

We refuse to reinstall copper tubing,  Which is why SS hoses are part of the truck stock.

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact

Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics