Fairly easy. The existing pan is taped in place, but you can access from the front. After removing the grill, remove the small bar from the front. May have to loosen the water filter housing to give yerself enough room.
All of the F5 fault codes for your dryer point to an issue with the door lock. Retrieve the tech sheet and perform the component test in the diagnostic cycle. Also check the wire connectors as well as continuity of the door switch at the CCU. If the door lock checks good, the CCU may have sustained damage from the flood.
If correct voltage is present and all the usual stuff checks good (element, thermostats, etc), you can check the thermistor for 10k ohms at room temperature. The absence of any error codes might point to a stuck heater relay or other issue with the Main PCB.
With the rear and side screws removed, you should be able to remove the cabinet by pulling it to the rear. But it sounds like you have a faulty control, which may no longer be available. Provided the line fuse isn't being tripped, I doubt the interlock switches are the culprit.
Could be backflow through the drain hose when the sink is used. Check for a proper "gooseneck" in the drain hose where it connects to the sink drain or disposer. This will prevent backflow or siphoning when the dishwasher is used.
May want to double check for any leaks from the water supply line where it connects to the inlet valve.
Definitely check the evaporator fan operation as Brother BEdwards advised. If it's running slow or not at all, you may need to replace the fan motor as well as the motherboard. Any other symptoms, icemaker or dispenser?
Good fix, Guy, and thanks for the update. Maytag dishwasher latches have a tendency to fail, even without a power surge. Most replacements will come with the latch and handle. Tripping the latch spring can restore function in most cases, but if the problem reoccurs, might be a good idea to go ahead and replace the latch assembly.
There's been an issue with the 3-81329 for both all refrigerators and all freezers (Both use the same timer). No Service Pointer but there was an engineering dispatch that advised to replace these timers with the same P/N and return the old timer to engineering for research. No info provided as to the cause or the cure of the problem.
Just had two Sidekicks, refrigerator and freezer with frost issues, still under first year warranty. Used the same Frigidaire timer you intend to use while ordering the correct replacement timer, and it held up just fine.