With the absence of any error codes indicated by the flashing oven leds, and the revisions made to the replacement main control boards (I went half blind with all of the terminal changes on the last one I replaced), I'd probably replace the control.
New valve should do it. The original fill hoses for this washer had a set of screen washers at the elbow end, but they appear to be clear. (Of course, if you still have the original 25 year old fill hoses and they're in good shape....Well done!)
After installing the new valve, check the operation during fill. If you notice a leak from the left/rear cabinet, you may need to replace the water injector. It's an inexpensive part and may act up when full water flow is re-introduced from the new valve.
Depending on the serial number, you'll be needing one of the upgrade kits or just the icemaker control board. Kit 5303918495 can be used if there's been no upgrade, and has all of the parts needed (and some not needed). Your series may only require the board.
Replacing the valve and flowmeter should square it away, especially since you've replaced the valve once already. This model has the good pressure switch but it's a good idea to inspect the pressure hose while you're back there.
Most likely a faulty key in the touch control. Retrieve the technical sheet from behind the bottom access panel and perform the keypad test. Also check for proper voltage at the power connection box, and that the control fuse is not open.
Concur with the Brethren. Squealing or thumping noise can be attributed to the rear support roller. If it's thumping, also inspect the drum, particularly at the seam. I've seen ovalling, damage and even separation occur.