You could try changing the thickness. But I agree it sounds like it may be to thin. Also make sure you don't have mineral buildup on the coldplate causing it to stay on to long making it melt down before it gets onto the cutting grid. If so you need to run ice maker cleaner through it on a clean cycle to get the buildup off.
Yes a dirty Evaporator plate can cause the ice to stick, as well as an evaporator that was cleaned with non nickel safe cleaner. It makes the evaporator feel like sand paper and causes the ice to stick to the plate.
Also the hot gas valve could not be opening fully to heat up the evaporator enough for ice to slide off fast enough.
But, I'm still betting on a sealed system leak in the evaporator.
Sounds to me like it's making the ice too thin. I would first try disconnecting the evaporator thermistor which controls when to cycle, it's the plug on the right towards the back above the cutter grid. What this will do is put it in a timed freeze cycle instead of temp, it will be a strict 25 minute timed cycle. If it still does the same thing then there is most likely a leaky evaporator. Big $$$.
Listen to me now, believe me later and hear me next week:
DO NOT USE CONDUCTIVE GREASE!
The only grease you should ever use is SILICON DIELECTRIC GREASE.
End of Line.
I tried hitting the like button on this one to get more like but all it did was unlike and re-like!
All of my service vans carry DiElectric Silicon Grease to use on any refrigerator connector or any low voltage connection that they make. This may be overkill but I think it's a good security measure over the long term. I order the Frigidaire grease because I don't know of any other manufacturer that sells it as a part number.
The ADC doesn't control the lights. If the parts are good it's either an intermittent switch our a wiring problem that you'll have to track down. I would think you can eliminate DC Modules and focus on the wires going to the AC/DC Module. The ADC counts the door opening to assist with the Adaptive Defrost if I remember correct.
Could become a liability if it fails in the future.
They are adjustable, but if you make a tiny adjustment check both high and low levels afterwords. Do it between every adjustment you make. Also as AM97 stated, as a professional I would never do it unless it was my own unit. Way too much liability in the future.
Exe., Invoice states you adjusted pressure switch (which is not supposed to be field adjusted), 6 months later it gets stuck and continues to fill and overflow while the customer is out playing 18 holes. Guess who's paying for a $20,000 minimum damage claim???