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Spannerwrench

Member Since 25 Apr 2013
Offline Last Active Today, 06:35 PM

#320332 lG FRIDGE LFX31945ST/01 AUGER MOTOR WILL NOT TURN AFTER NEW BOARD

Posted by Spannerwrench on 19 May 2015 - 03:07 PM

I hate to keep going on about this, but I'm as stubborn as a mule, so my wife says.  But I understand that the Koreans switch the Neutral not the hot because it's safer on the controls, they are actually an electronics company before appliances.  

 

So these are my updated thoughts on this.  I know I'm rambling on about it, but I just like to see a puzzle solved!!

 

1st Board!

Attached File  4 WD.png   81KB   0 downloads

 

2nd Board!

Attached File  5 WD.png   81.63KB   0 downloads




#320322 lG FRIDGE LFX31945ST/01 AUGER MOTOR WILL NOT TURN AFTER NEW BOARD

Posted by Spannerwrench on 19 May 2015 - 02:09 PM

I don't know, I was going off of what the customer told the tech that the other tech said about the Neutral.  I'm thinking that either the customer misunderstood or the tech didn't explain it properly.  The Dispenser uses a dual Neutral to remove one, I'm thinking he meant combine them coming from the main board to the dispenser board.  Because the new main board doesn't send two Neutral supplies to the dispenser board.

 

I'm just trying to make sense of what the other tech told the customer who told another tech who to us.  "Who's on First?"

 

Okay so the customer called me and said his friend who works for a big national store was at his house this weekend.   This gentleman said I have no idea what I am doing and the main control board needs to be rewired.  He told the homeowner that the dispenser uses a dual neutral control and you have to remove one of the neutral wires to work with the substituted main control board.   ??????? What????




#320302 lG FRIDGE LFX31945ST/01 AUGER MOTOR WILL NOT TURN AFTER NEW BOARD

Posted by Spannerwrench on 19 May 2015 - 11:31 AM

The schematic doesn't show a Cube Solenoid see first attached.

Attached File  WD.png   31.82KB   0 downloads

 

But the Trouble shooting section seems to indicate that the Cube Solenoid is part of the Dispenser motor.

Attached File  TS.png   155.92KB   0 downloads

 

So I was under the impression that's what that third wire was for.




#320102 Bosch dryer WTA3510US/10 - lint filter light flashing

Posted by Spannerwrench on 16 May 2015 - 08:07 AM

Those lint screens are very fine, they may appear clean but aren't.  To test run under running water and see if it pools any.  I've had a lot of customer purchase an extra filter and once a week they swap them and wash the other one with hat water, a mild soap and a toothbrush.




#320021 question about a subzero 642

Posted by Spannerwrench on 15 May 2015 - 10:22 AM

I've had to remove the compressors and condensers before on the newer Sub-Zeros before so they could be put in an elevator to get then to the condo.  Never had an issue either, as long as you pull a good vacuum, change the filter driers and weigh in the proper charge.  It sounds like you have a low charge in the fresh food side.  A properly charge refrigerator section should run between 10 and 14 psi.

 

I also don't think anyone was trying to offend you you, it's just that you're listed as a Grasshopper and your post sounded like you're not a professional technician who was tampering with sealed systems which isn't a good thing.




#319801 GE Monogram ZDP48N6RH1SS Burner only simmers

Posted by Spannerwrench on 12 May 2015 - 04:46 PM

I think you're having similar issues that I see all the time on F&P cooktops, clogged orifices.  This has a dual stage valve that send gas to both orifices in high to low and on gas to the simmer orifice during simmer. 

See attached.

Attached File  GE Dual Burner.png   196.09KB   0 downloads

Attached File  GE Dual Valve.png   138.42KB   0 downloads




#319111 GE Refrigerator Model #PSB42YSXASS

Posted by Spannerwrench on 03 May 2015 - 11:39 AM

Added for you

 

http://appliantology...48-mini-manual/




#319001 maytag diswasher MDB7749SBW1 intermit leak from door

Posted by Spannerwrench on 01 May 2015 - 03:06 PM

King PDuff has spoken.  You best listen.




#318824 Apps?

Posted by Spannerwrench on 29 April 2015 - 04:38 PM

appliantology.org

http://mastersamuraitech.com

evernote.com

dropbox.com

 

and of course google.




#318821 ZDIS15CSSM GE Ice Maker will not completely relase sheet of ice

Posted by Spannerwrench on 29 April 2015 - 04:33 PM

You could try changing the thickness. But I agree it sounds like it may be to thin. Also make sure you don't have mineral buildup on the coldplate causing it to stay on to long making it melt down before it gets onto the cutting grid. If so you need to run ice maker cleaner through it on a clean cycle to get the buildup off.

 

Yes a dirty Evaporator plate can cause the ice to stick, as well as an evaporator that was cleaned with non nickel safe cleaner.  It makes the evaporator feel like sand paper and causes the ice to stick to the plate.

 

Also the hot gas valve could not be opening fully to heat up the evaporator enough for ice to slide off fast enough.

 

But, I'm still betting on a sealed system leak in the evaporator.




#318812 ZDIS15CSSM GE Ice Maker will not completely relase sheet of ice

Posted by Spannerwrench on 29 April 2015 - 02:35 PM

Sounds to me like it's making the ice too thin.  I would first try disconnecting the evaporator thermistor which controls when to cycle, it's the plug on the right towards the back above the cutter grid.  What this will do is put it in a timed freeze cycle instead of temp, it will be a strict 25 minute timed cycle.  If it still does the same thing then there is most likely a leaky evaporator.  Big $$$.




#318690 samsung WF218ANB/XAA

Posted by Spannerwrench on 27 April 2015 - 01:25 PM

You ran the Quick test cycle which removes any stored error code.  Try running it again, when the problem reoccurs, run the service mode first to find any stored error codes.




#318455 LE error code on LG WM2487HWM - Main board failure?

Posted by Spannerwrench on 23 April 2015 - 02:56 PM

Listen to me now, believe me later and hear me next week:

DO NOT USE CONDUCTIVE GREASE!

The only grease you should ever use is SILICON DIELECTRIC GREASE.

End of Line.

I tried hitting the like button on this one to get more like but all it did was unlike and re-like! 

 

All of my service vans carry DiElectric Silicon Grease to use on any refrigerator connector or any low voltage connection that they make.  This may be overkill but I think it's a good security measure over the long term.  I order the Frigidaire grease because I don't know of any other manufacturer that sells it as a part number.

 

Part number: 5304485963

Part number: 5304485963

 

Dielectric grease is also considered synthetic grease.




#318230 SUB ZERO 650/F ICE MAKER

Posted by Spannerwrench on 20 April 2015 - 04:08 PM

Correct Part Number for the Icemaker one the 600 - 1 Series is 7002734.




#318225 Kenmor refrigerator the lights flicker 10651123210

Posted by Spannerwrench on 20 April 2015 - 02:34 PM

The ADC doesn't control the lights.  If the parts are good it's either an intermittent switch our a wiring problem that you'll have to track down.  I would think you can eliminate DC Modules and focus on the wires going to the AC/DC Module.  The ADC counts the door opening to assist with the Adaptive Defrost if I remember correct.

 

Attached File  LED Modules.png   49.14KB   0 downloads







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