What color are the door lid motors. (The parts on the left and right side?) It they're white they need to be changed, They constantly fail in a non constant method. The new ones are black in color and much less failure prone.
At least 50% of time on these units it turns out to be a customer education call. I had one last week that the customer has been using for years with know problem. After further investigation she just purchased new dinner plates that were too tall if not put in properly, which she wasn't. Also she was putting her large coffee mugs on the wine glass holder. Both of those problems were causing the lid not to lower and seal properly on the drawer. I like the newer model F&Ps better because the top drawer is taller than the lower to accommodate oversize plates.
In the video it showed the Y going into a single hose that then went into the disposal. Their Y goes directly to the disposal. Is that ok?
No that's not good. They use to say that was how to install them if the factory installed drain line wasn't long enough. Since then they now actually sell a drain hose extension kit that includes two additional hoses and connectors. If it dropped down to just one hose it would restrict the flow too much if they both happened to be draining at the same time.
for the money we and the customer have to pay we need brand new , not rebuilt boards !!
I don't believe they are selling rebuilt boards, YET. I think they are trying to prevent what happened previously with their control board supply problem. I think if they run out of controls due to a vendor supply problem then can utilize another alternative. Also I think they would have to disclose in their packaging and literature that the part has been remanufactured.
There is a check flap in drain that is only meant to prevent the water in the high loop from flowing back.
A few tips.
Make sure the Y shaped hose joiner is installed properly one hose on top of the other, not side by side. The hot water can cause the Y Connector to sag and a slow drain will occur.
Also make sure the drain line is installed properly, the drain should be routed floor level not cabinet base level. It should be ran through the hollow spot under the cabinet and then up through the base to the top of the cabinet back down to the outlet. If it is not installed in this fashion numerous water in the bottom tub challenges can occur.
I've had plenty Of the Thermador double wall ovens with the top oven also being a microwave that blows the fuse for no apparent reason. I've replaced a lot of them without any callbacks. I've been to the same houses for other appliances yet that fuse hasn't blown yet.
My favorite is a customer that lives beachside that called Sears, they ordered a Mag Tube and Transformer but it still didn't heat, so they they wanted to order the Diode and Capacitor. The customer said no, I'll call someone else.. He saw one of our trucks on the island and called us. I went out and found a blown fuse, replaced it and three years later it still works. It's possible that one of those parts caused the fuse to blow, but I don't think so, they didn't even realize the fuse was bad.
That looks like the part to me AP4070513, it short cycles the thermostat for low heat. An easy test to see if it's that or the switch is to check for voltage at the thermostat heat. If there's voltage but it doesn't work it's that part. Part number: AP4070513
. If there's no voltage then it's probably the Fabric selector switch, which is no longer available.Part number: 40084101
By the way the resistance for the thermostat heater should be 2400 +/- 240 Ohms.
I don't understand what you're selling here, or promoting. If there is nothing mechanical that uses electricity, than all you've is came up with a way to exhaust air and refresh air to a refrigerator that was not properly installed. I work in customer homes every day where this has been done.
If I'm wrong let me know. But, I don't understand how you created something new.