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Kokanee Ranger

Member Since 22 May 2013
Offline Last Active Dec 24 2014 04:29 PM

#305683 GE dryer DCVH480EKWW does not complete cycle.

Posted by Kokanee Ranger on 15 October 2014 - 11:36 AM

AppliancePartsPros.com does not currently ship internationally.

 

 

Part number: WE11X10019

Part number: WE11X10019

List price up here is $540.45 for heater Assy.  My cost $405.00

Sears in the states sells it for $180.99  .... Sears .ca sells the same part for $490.00 

I feel like I'm getting hosed.




#303808 "Hey, I just fixed that guy's.........."

Posted by Kokanee Ranger on 21 September 2014 - 02:25 PM

One of the girls in the office was a real Star Trek fan. I had to tell her I fixed the Borg Queen's refrigerator !

Susanne Thompson was in town playing the role of Oliver Queen's mother in Arrow.

She excitedly asked if I got her autograph ?

Yup... Right here on the bottom of the work order where it says costumer.




#301832 Dryer Mod #110.87729701 "F23" code

Posted by Kokanee Ranger on 25 August 2014 - 01:48 PM

F23 is outlet thurmister shorted. Should read 12K ohms.




#262650 KitchenAid Dishwasher KUDS30IXBL0 stops running

Posted by Kokanee Ranger on 26 July 2013 - 08:38 PM

Drain pumps are designed to pump water not suds . All your water is turning to suds , after the dry cycle most of the suds have turned back into water and thats what you see.

You should be able to detach the black panel off the front from the control panel.

Reattach the latch and control to the inner panel. Closed the door and run a quick or 1 Hour cycle.

Now grab a beer .. maybe two and watch the dispenser. Whether it has a wax motor or a cylinoid.

It should only activate twice . First time to release detergent in the wash cycle and once more in the rinse cycle for your JetDry.

If it is activated more the twice then it is your control.

Only twice you have a leaking dispenser.

Leaking dispenser is the more likely cause , But I have seen a bad control One time !




#259817 KitchenAid Dishwasher KUDS30IXBL0 stops running

Posted by Kokanee Ranger on 02 July 2013 - 09:28 PM

Check the seal on the vent .

Also check  the vent itself see if its closing fully.

With a test cord you can apply 120 vac to the wax motor 

on the vent to see if its sealing right.

 

Wax motor get power directly from the board . If it checks out it's a board issue.

 

Vent is top left in side the door should have two wires leading to the wax motor.




#259554 Propane gas grill conversion to natural gas

Posted by Kokanee Ranger on 30 June 2013 - 12:43 PM

In the province of British Columbia you used to have to write for a “C ticket “ to service gas appliances.

If you wanted to become a Gas Fitter you would then write for your “B ticket”on your way to an “A ticket “.

The card in my wallet is a “Certificate of Qualification “ to preform the duties of a “ Gas Appliance Service Technician ”.

In these parts it is called a “Gas ticket” , hard to get a job in the appliance service industry around here without one.

I do not recommend “drilling out” an orifice and by using a #52 drill I assume you are working on a 10,000 btu burner or burners.

Orifices of all sizes are available for a minimal cost. If you find a source for the orifice they will probably have the regulator you need.

If the regulator in not clearly marked as convertible to N.G . There are no adjustments.

You need to buy a new one, and the proper supply hose.

 

1- Psi = 28 in's wc or 1-Osi = 1.75 in's wc . Do the math , get the right one.

 

 

http://www.maxitrol.com/regsizprog.asp

 

This link might help

 

The manufactures conversion kit comes with the proper regulator and orifices . All the ones I have seen for BB-Q's also comes with a length of hose with a quick disconnect that fits into the N.G. outlet.

 

If you insist on doing it, “the hard way” , double check your calculations.




#259478 Propane gas grill conversion to natural gas

Posted by Kokanee Ranger on 29 June 2013 - 07:32 PM

https://www.dropbox.... conversion.pdf

 

Use this link for the formula for orifice sizing in gas conversion .

And yes you will have to change the manifold from 11” W.C. To 3.5 “ W.C.

 

Or you can use the manufacturers conversion kit … thats what I always do .

 

Yes , I have a Gas Ticket. The only time I ever used this formula was to get my Gas Ticket !




#259223 Bosch WFMC3200 works, quits. works again, quits again

Posted by Kokanee Ranger on 26 June 2013 - 07:47 PM

Have you checked the brushes on the motor. ?  I have seen more basic models act up intermittently before they stop altogether. Yours is about the right age . Brushes are only $50-60 ….. Just Sayin.




#258980 Electrolux induction cooktop EW30CC55GS

Posted by Kokanee Ranger on 24 June 2013 - 11:45 AM

Installed left control couple days ago and no display at all . Hooked old board to wiring harness and got it to light up. Undid ribbon connector left to right board left side lit up.

Ordered right touch pad control.   31830724 …. So a week later

Installing right side board I found ribbon connector askew .could not see the connection when in place. My bad

All displays now light up when plugged in .

displayed E s across the board and  flashed 39-40 on the right side display.

Just had to configure board. Could not get it to go.

Called Tech line , after another half dozen attempts Tech line advised to order glass cook top !?!

He gave me the part number. Put this number on the work order and put tools back in the van.

 

I knew I was missing something.

 

Plugged the Unit back in again . Held the warm button . This time when I toucher the RF ON button I heard a very soft beep I hadn't heard before.

Before the only beeps I heard was when I touched th RF ON for over three seconds and it would beep continually and much louder until I released the warm button.

One of the hazards of working in a shop connected to a noisy warehouse. The Guys weer on a break when I went back.

Tested unit for proper operation … Ready for reinstall. !

 

What I have learned :

 

-Avoid working on Electrolux if at all possible

-Need to see 13 Vdc pins 1-4 on wiring harness and 5Vdc 1-2and 1-3. if not change out induction board and harness . Display gets power from the induction board and the harness just in case.

-If there is no display at all and you have 13Vdc to left board check the ribbon connector to the right board.

-Following techline advice too shootgun is O.K. Under manufacturers warranty. On paying calls the costumer tends to get upset.

-When your about to give up step back and re asses.

 

They say it good to learn from your mistakes … I find it is better to learn from others mistakes.!!




#257932 LG washer help

Posted by Kokanee Ranger on 12 June 2013 - 10:21 AM

Wire-Harness-6877ER1016B-00721087.jpg

 

http://www.repaircli...ER1016B/1268330

 

 

Beware one large item can shake the top spring off . Just replacing damaged parts in this case can be a fix.

But If a LG washer spins up a normal load it senses as balanced and starts dancing across the laundry room.

Suspect the harness .

In this case I change the harness and Hall sensor. Hall sensor in considered part of the motor and is covered under the

10yr. Motor warranty.

:wink:

 

 

LG part number ( 6877ER1016B ) or the

Equivalent for the unit you are working on.




#257885 LG washer help

Posted by Kokanee Ranger on 11 June 2013 - 11:41 PM

The first time I ran in to this I was helping a coworker change out the main board . He had already changed out the Hall sensor , rotter and stater or twice . Brought it back to the shop .

I had time and I worked on it . It would not spin up an unbalanced load ( One wet towel ). If it did find a balance it was

LG washer = Bucking bronco.

I checked the wiring harness to the motor , hall sensor. Found if I moved the harness around I would loss continuity on the blue wire going to the motor.

The wire was broken but outwardly looked fine.

When this unit went into spin and started to shake the motor would loss power to one of the banks of coils intermittently at high RPM..

 

Change out the Motor , Hall sensor wiring harness . Sorry no part number.

 

I have two on the go right now and it's 4-6 weeks to get a harness in from LG.

Must be a fast moving part. On washers that are 2 to 4years old.




#257482 Whirlpool WFC7500VW - No spin

Posted by Kokanee Ranger on 07 June 2013 - 09:28 PM

Had two going with no final spin. Was advised by Whirlpool Tech Line to change out the Main user interface board . His logic being if it spins up in diagnostics it's not the MCC. I have now got my hands on a Main user interface board changed out under warranty. Tenant had pushed the start button through the fascia as this unit takes f o r e v e r t o do a n y t h I n g. Ordered the board just in case and it never had a final spin issue . I will use this as a tester . Hope to have the definitive answer soon.




#257477 Whirpool front load water coming out of the soap load area

Posted by Kokanee Ranger on 07 June 2013 - 08:41 PM

Found a sock plugging the water inlet on the tub side . Used a coat hanger to fish it out from between the spin basket and the tub. Also found a g-string in the drain lint catcher an a Duet. When I showed the very thong worthy costumer Her comment was “I thought the Maid stole that “

:wink:




#256085 Maytag mah2400aww

Posted by Kokanee Ranger on 27 May 2013 - 09:29 PM

LE= washer has tryed to fill but has not reached the proper water level.

On one other repair on a mah2400aww I diagnosed a bad motor, replacing the motor, was not a fix , changing the board was the fix.

At the Pinical with over 250 units and 12 bad boards a failure rate of 4.8%. Manufacures aim for 2% or less.





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