How about a Rinnai Continuum. I have installed many over the years, not a single clinker in the bunch. the gas supply line needs to be upsized to a 3/4 inch because they ramp up as high as 149000 btus.I usually use black iron but you can use the newer armorflex type products. It's also a a good opportunity to upgrade your existing gas lines in the home for future expansion. The difference in price is less than 400 dollars and the savings are immediate. zero standby loss. Call a few heating professionals in your area and get some free estimates. This is the best time of year for having something like this done as the heating guys are hungry as hell !
My average installed price is 12 to 1700 sheckles depending on the complexity of the installation.
Energy is simply too damn expensive to fool around with wasteful heating and cooling appliances anymore.
It is the cheapskate that pays the most. Also, there may be some rebates in your state( directly proportional to the number of greenie weenies in your statehouse.)
getting back to the idea of just replacing it with a neutral drain gearcase, I seem to recall that the neutral drain pause is in the timer even before they came out with the neutral drain gearcase itself. It was accomplished thru sub interval switch 13 I beleive. Take a look at the esterline chart on the washer and tell us it aint so. If so, then the neutral gearcase will work just fine. i remember running into it way back in the day working at sears and bringitback.
I would clean the affected burners first, make sure all the holes are clean and free of sulphur residue. a paper clip or dental implement from Walgreens works in a pinch. you can also clean up the electrode tips with an igniton file and make sure that the burner itself is making a good ground connection to the chassis of the stove. If the customer is right handed, the burners on the right side of the stove get used more, hence more opportunities to spill over onto the burner.This will explain to the customer why it is only on the right side.
Once you have ruled out the simple stuff, cracked electrodes etc., you could consider throwing a new ignition module at it, but its probably a pricey part, especially if flame rectification is involved.
Check out the burners and get back to us! good luck!
I just did one yesterday Front panel is held in place with 2 screws at right and left sides.remove back panel reach in from the back as your helper passes the wire harness through the opening in the front. Fish the replacement harness under the cooktop and reconnect wires to the spark mod and the main terminal block, red wire terminal. peice of cake.20-30 minutes tops.
I would swap out the gas coils and make sure the exhaust duct is clean, kink free and not getting squished when it is pushed in against the wall, Then see what happens.These coils deteriorate gradually over tim, convention tells us that timer advance issues in auto dry usually go to the venting. Go for the low hanging fruit first, then get back to us if it still isn't behaving properly.
This is a less than memorable washer design from Maytag in the final days of a failed company. It is what I call an orphan platform, long out of production on a sketchy design. I would advise the customer to purchase a new machine, or perhaps you could find an old kenmore,whirlpool direct drive washer worth overhauling. I've been doing washer repairs for longer than I want to admit, and I would not take one of these on for any amount of money. No matter how hard you work for this customer it wont be appreciated, and the repair wont last more than a year or two. Ditch this lemon and move on man, life is too damn short. Just my opinion, but the advice is free. Good luck!
Im pretty sure the neutral to that washer goes from the terminal block down to the motor switch through M2-4 if memory serves, cant be sure. check the diagram, then follow the neutral back up to the main t block. These types of call can drive you to drink but youll be rewarded once you noodle it out. Good Luck!!
Its kind of like picking your favorite Menendez brother or politician these days. There really isnt a good honest stacker made any more. The design parameters that built your last set, reliability, longevity, simplicity of design are out the window.The new products regrdless of what you buy are going to be over engineered crap, designed to last around 2000 to 2500 washes. Then you get to replace them with another set.I would suggest you consider seperates, perhaps the Kenmore Elite, made by LG. Avoid Whirlpool.Thier electronics are soft and over priced.Stay in the low end of the upper spectrum. NO STEAM.If the set you have can be overhauled and refurbished, by all means, do it. Perhaps you can find a semi retired old fart like me to do it in his shop over a period of time rather that crammed in your utility closet or bathroom. Thats all I have to say. Good Luck!