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Member Since 02 Jul 2013
Offline Last Active Jul 19 2015 03:44 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: The continuing saga of my Kenmore 90 series washer (model 110.20902990)

15 July 2015 - 09:31 PM

Update:   In looking at all the stuff, I have determined this one isn't worth fixing, however it got to this point, it's more expensive than any other solution presented.  The blender valve was acting wonky, but now is toast, no cold water can come through.  In getting it to spin to get the last bit of water out, it went a bit and then there was a clunk and now it won't spin.


My current thought is to just buy another one, since I like the washer, and take the timer (which was just replaced 18 months ago) and motor out of this one as spare parts for a new-to-me used one of the same kind.


How wide a range of model #s from the 90 series match my timer and motor?  Exact match 110.20902990 only?  Or if the knob/look is the same am I likely to luck out?


In Topic: The continuing saga of my Kenmore 90 series washer (model 110.20902990)

15 July 2015 - 09:04 PM

So I got some of the couplers from repair clinic with the metal, and that one lasted only a few months.  Was a pile of rubber dust.  Folks in that thread said they'd seen the metal (which as I understand wasn't original but an 'improvement') damage the motor shaft. The one that lasted a year and a half had no metal.

In Topic: The continuing saga of my Kenmore 90 series washer (model 110.20902990)

15 July 2015 - 12:58 PM

Hey, Eureka! I have extended family there, own Old Town Coffee.

I did screw up the first time, but then I came here and used the video posted as a response to my first post. I was warned not to use the one with the metal, that they will break the more expensive parts before it will break. In the first round of trouble, people told me about the importance of putting it on just right /not too far when tapping with the screwdriver so I have followed the video every time.

In Topic: The continuing saga of my Kenmore 90 series washer (model 110.20902990)

14 July 2015 - 04:23 PM

Micabay, my big reason for considering this ongoing repair situation is that I want my synthetic, camping, gardening, etc. clothes to be very clean.  I'd rather use enough water for clothes the way I like them and reclaim my washer water for plants that can deal with grey water than use too little.  No control over water and a lid lock that prevents you from even knowing how much a washer is using is why I hesitate to plunk down money for a new one.  I take care to balance loads that involve towels, etc. and err on the side of more water than I need.  


PDuff, that is an interesting comment.  Last 2 times, the rubber was busted, so the plastic didn't set right, but the plastic wasn't broken and the rubber was just broken, not turned to dust as it had been the first two times it was broken in 2011/2012.  As I open it up to look at the rest, I'll look carefully at this last one.  If broken on the gearcase side, you think it's less likely or more likely the gearcase issue the first repairman suggested? In the past, I do recall the plastic in 1 or 2 more pieces than it should have been, but not sure which sides,I wish I did.  When you say inner wall of the cabinet, you mean the metal outside you take off to get to the parts, right?  It's totally clean inside,every time.  I haven't taken enough stuff apart to look at the inner basket, is that a complicated step to do?  I primarily want to look at the bottom area then?  Does this blending valve issue make sense/something I should be looking at when evaluating? 


fairbank, the tub does come to a complete, pretty quick stop when the lid switch is flipped off/it stops.  (But it doesn't seem different to me than my mom's 35-yo version of the same, which is maybe all I've got to go on for what's normal).  But every time the washer breaks mid-load, it's not making it to the spin part of the cycle, it's quitting sometime during the beginning to the middle of the agitate part.  However, if we do repair, I will make sure to give that some grease while I'm in there.


Thanks to everyone for their feedback so far.  I have been looking at used washers too, and this one is still going for $220 locally.

In Topic: Kenmore 90 series motor and coupler out (model 110.20902990)

29 June 2015 - 11:42 PM

Well it took a bit to get to it, but it was just the coupler!  Not sure why the motor sounded so different this time, but when we opened it up, the coupler rubber had broken into 4 pieces in place, but the plastic parts had not-- in the past, the plastic had been in pieces as well.  With that helpful video, we were done in under thirty minutes and several loads of clothes that smelled like campfire are getting cleaned as we speak.  THIS time, we checked everything you all suggested, to see if things were spinning correctly, etc. and everything else looks like working order.  When we put the washer back, we also checked that it was level to make sure that wasn't causing any added stress-- it was ok.  I love to do late-night laundry to use electricity during off-peak hours, so to have my at-home laundry setup back in order is FANTASTIC.  I am very appreciative of this forum and it's members helping me learn.


Two orphaned socks were found under the dryer that we couldn't see due to the shadow of the washer, so bonus!  

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