Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


johntech

Member Since 22 Jul 2013
Offline Last Active Today, 04:12 PM

#299452 Whirlpool stackable lte5243dq6

Posted by johntech on 24 July 2014 - 08:07 AM

It's working. Broken tub supports. Dryer timer not advancing and wash timer not sending power to motor. Replaced supports and found the base was stripped so replaced base, supports, and both timers. I seem to have lost a leg after the repair which tricked me a little because her breaker was doing some weird things like resetting for no reason and losing legs for no apparent reason but when that stabilized everything was peachy. Thanks


#296898 Kitchenaid downdraft fan kird861vss1

Posted by johntech on 22 June 2014 - 08:21 AM

The unit was over traveling in the up position and binding the gear motor. I dropped the motor and by hand twisted the shaft to reset it to a "down" or "home" position. I reinstalled the gear motor. I pulled out the control board and low and behold I can see where a capacitor and a resistor got hot and melted there solder. I put a new board in and have not received any call backs.just like Oakland bob said it would work fine for me after I reset, lowered, and replaced the fuse but after a few hours it would either forget what position it was in "up or down", or forget it was supposed to stop when the limit switch was pressed.


#284863 Samsung dryer dv218aewxaa

Posted by johntech on 17 February 2014 - 04:52 PM

I checked the heater to ground and no continuity but when I peeked inside for further inspection I found that a quarter had managed to roll into the element. I guess the core of the quarter would ground out the element when it got hot. Thanks everybody.


#280891 WHIRLPOOL RANGE HELP NEEDED

Posted by johntech on 12 January 2014 - 10:33 AM

I take a lot of pictures if it the first time I am taking something apart so I can avoid such problems. Especially metal clips that can go in multiple ways.


#280742 Maytag washer mhw6000xg2

Posted by johntech on 10 January 2014 - 03:10 PM

Thanks everybody it turned out to be a bad mcu board. It seemed to test ok but I just had to check it at the right time to catch it losing voltage and failing.


#280502 Kitchenaid dish drawer kudd01dppa

Posted by johntech on 08 January 2014 - 05:42 PM

It was sitting in storage for several months. After also replacing the flex drain lines because of leaks it has been running great thanks


#268651 Bosch Dishwasher

Posted by johntech on 18 September 2013 - 05:14 PM

Sounds like a bad control board. Try this

BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
button is pressed.
To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be addedtogether, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and
testing will end shortly after water has started circulating


#265668 Jen air oven jjw9527dds

Posted by johntech on 22 August 2013 - 05:36 PM

Thanks guys it was a loose connection on the ribbon cable on the left side of the control that connects to one of the key pads. Shame for me for not tugging on every wire I connected. Beer for everyone else.



FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics