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The Turtle

Member Since 25 Jul 2013
Offline Last Active Jul 29 2013 10:48 PM

#262659 Kenmore compact chest freezer

Posted by The Turtle on 26 July 2013 - 10:04 PM

Yeah, there's my girl Irma:

 

irmaharding_4c_bustlogo.png




#262658 Kenmore compact chest freezer

Posted by The Turtle on 26 July 2013 - 09:56 PM

He was wiggling and bumping right at the start relay.  Seems like a straightforward case of either a problem with the start relay or a sloppy connection at the molex connector on the relay.  

UPDATE: killed the power, pulled the start relay and capacitor (I had both new components, figured I'd just stick them all in and see what happened rather than trying to triage it down any further). Put the new cap and relay in place, restored the connector to the relay, freezer fired right up and worked solid for the two hours I cared to sit there and keep an eye on it.  Looks like the relay probably nailed it.  Have not yet dissected the old start/overload relay assembly, but I did shake it and nothing loose rattled around inside.  Will pick it apart in my abundant spare time.  Intend to check the unit tomorrow when I go out to the barn, but I expect it'll be fine.  Sure wish Sears had maybe put a piezo buzzer on the thing for temp alarm instead of just a little orange light by the handle, as the compressor is normally quiet enough you have to really listen to hear if it's running or not.  Thanks to all for input and advice.

 

Side note: in my house, I have a 1953 International Harvester chest freezer which has been in continuous and perfect service for sixty years now, and the only casualty seems to be the light over at the side of the inside chamber.  This thing still has the original "Irma Harding" instruction sticker under the lid.  The only reason that freezer is still there is that when I bought the house seventeen years ago, the walk-out basement door had been remodeled in the early 1960s and was now to narrow to let the freezer out.  Whoever takes it out of there, when and if it ever fails, will have to cut it up with a Sawzall.  I guess the Home Appliance division of the International Harvester Corporation did its job too well back in 1953.

 

Looks like this, only in my basement, and perfect:

 

100_1081.jpg




#262446 Walbro carburetors on MTD equipment

Posted by The Turtle on 25 July 2013 - 02:00 PM

Just wanted to post this so that others will find it.

 

MTD will tell you that the primer bulb on small MTD yard tools (in this case, it was a 4-stroke Troy-Bilt trimmer) is not available as a separate part.  They will then sell you an entire replacement carburetor.  Due to ethanol in the gasoline, the rubber used in the primer bulb hardens and cracks sometimes after just a season or two.

 

Well, they're right, and they're wrong.  Sure, MTD won't sell you the primer bulb, but every Home Depot will sell you, for under $12, a kit containing several different "universal" bulbs, typically with the Ryobi/Toro names mentioned.  One of the bulbs in this kit is a precise fit for the bulb on the Walbro carbs they use on their trimmers and such.  Buy it, unscrew the retaining ring around the base of the bulb (two small Phillips screws), replace the bulb, and put it back together.  There you go.  And you just saved at least $30.  Buy several kits and put them away; you'll need them.

 

In other news, Walbro small-engine carbs are essentially unrepairable in other ways.  If you get a clogged jet, you might as well throw the carb away.  No amount of cleaning, blowing-out with compressed air, or swearing, will get the thing to run again, ever.  Forget it.

 

Sears must have figured this out, because when I ordered a replacement carb for a lawn tractor with a 16HP Briggs single-cylinder engine, the replacement wasn't a Walbro, it was a Nikki, and was better-engineered than the original Walbro.  It was, alas, $144.




#262442 Kenmore compact chest freezer

Posted by The Turtle on 25 July 2013 - 01:52 PM

I've got a Kenmore 8.8cuft chest freezer, a model they still currently sell (253.16949102), that for the last few weeks has been acting flaky.  I can get the compressor to start if I open up the panel that contains both the cooling vents for the compressor and the thermostat, and basically tapping the face of the starter relay and jiggling the wiring harness a bit, but not to the point where I've been able to identify a loose or intermittent connection in any of the connnections.  I've unplugged and replugged the Molex connector, the connections on the starter relay, and the capacitor, as well as checking to make sure both ground connections are tight.  The problem has gotten progressively worse.

 

It started out that the unit would run until it got down to its assigned temperature, and then refuse to restart on the next cycle.  Now it's to where the thing will spin up, run and cool for maybe 10-15 seconds, then click off.  Sometimes it won't respond at all.

 

I have a new cap and a new starter relay on the way, but it doesn't appear to actually have a separate overload relay.  Is that plausible?  Is the overload integrated into the starter relay on the newer units?  The compressor is a Panasonic, no guess who actually manufactured the unit for Sears.  I cannot find any mention of a separate overload/cutoff relay on Sears' own parts diagrams.

 

If swapping out the starter relay and cap doesn't fix it, I'm hosed and will probably junk it and replace it.





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