Posted by olyteddy
on 23 September 2014 - 10:23 PM
FWIW to cycle the ones that have the 'hold back the paddle' on off switch just rotate the shaft by hand slightly away from the parked position. Also most (all?) GEs won't cycle the icemaker with the door open. Tape the door switch if you want to watch...
Posted by olyteddy
on 07 September 2014 - 11:33 AM
Don says: I remember a torpedoman asking me for a Crescent Wrench. When I asked him what size; he said doesn't make any difference, I'm going to use it as a hammer.
Some of this may be true. Judge for yourself.
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted vertical stabilizer which you
had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench
with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses
from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh--....'
ELECTRIC HAND DRILL:
Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age .
A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into
major refinishing jobs.
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms
human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt
to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else
is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm
of your hand.
Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding
heat to the palm of your hand.
Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on
fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you
want to remove a bearing race.
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for
testing wall integrity.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the
ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack
h an dle firmly under the bumper.
EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4:
Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.
E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR:
A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt
holes thereby ending any possible future use.
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good
aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can
after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST:
A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to
CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER:
A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver
tip on the end opposite the handle.
AVIATION METAL SNIPS:
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style
paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used,
as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted
screws into non-removable screws.
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed
to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
A tool used to make hoses too short.
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a
kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we
are trying to hit.
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered
to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl
records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines , refund checks, and
rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only
while in use.
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling
'DAMMIT' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you
If it's like a lot of other GE washers 'Cold' is not the same as 'Tap Cold'. They mix a bit of hot in and monitor the temperature with a thermistor. The thermistor doesn't read when the lid is up so they run straight cold with it up. Try filling with the lid closed. If you don't open it while it's filling it should be cold.
I would hound Whirlpool relentlessly about the issue. I've had success with GE in getting the parts to do this kind of repair for free, but I tend to the needs of around 5,000 GE appliances. If you can get the parts it's not a repair for the faint hearted and will require several hours of skilled labor to accomplish.
Open the John Guess connection at the bottom of the door (behind the kick plate). Press the dispenser (with the door closed). Is the floor wet? (yes) Frozen Door Tube...(no) Valve Problem or possibly frozen water tank. If yes you might be able to just leave the light on to keep it unfroze, after you thaw it the first time.
I have an idea. And it's not good. You are describing the decay products of the 'Spider' (the shaft and support at the back of the drum). I hope I'm wrong. Does it still spin quietly or has it gotten real noisy?
The mode shifter will click and clank a few times before engaging. This is normal. As the Grand Master says, you can check the health of the mode shifter by observing the little flashing light on the circuit board at the top of the motor.
I'm about to do this for an 8 year old 'Frigidaire Style' GE Profile front loader. If I had to buy the parts they'd be over a kilo-buck. The Profile, however, has 10 year warranty on the housing and bearing and lifetime on the drum and spider...