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Member Since 25 Aug 2013
Online Last Active Today, 10:21 PM

Topics I've Started

WFG510S0AW2 Gas Range Too much fire! (Propane)

26 July 2015 - 09:32 PM

Greetings All,


Friday I went on a call for a WPL range that "is burning everything".  I found the flame from the oven burner was WAY too big, spreading into the oven compartment.  This oven is being run on a 20 lb propane bottle, with the typical regulator attached to the bottle. Ideal setup? No, but not that uncommon (heck, my 1950's Norge range at my vacation house is setup that way).


Burners on top don't seem to have the high-to-low range they should (too high, never really "go low").  Too much pressure? Unfortunately, I don't have the equipment to test for that. The flame is blue, with yellow/orange tips, just way too much. Changing the shutter on the oven burner only makes it worse (wide open is the least problematic).  Lots of soot on the bottom of the flame spreader plate.  Homeowner swears the same regulator worked on the previous stove.


I know to never believe something was properly converted, so I started double checking that. Burners have the small orifices (NG are pretty large).  I took off the cap for the steel regulator, and sure enough, it was wrong (according to the pic from an old conversion sheet I had in the truck-homeowners couldn't find their original), nipple sticking out.  Yay, right? I flipped it over, and the problem got WORSE. I put it back the way it was (the wrong way, for NG).


Odd thing, the broiler looks great, normal. The broiler spud was tightened down, but the oven burner tube didn't have the same kind of set up.  I did do the test where I fired up the oven, and turned all the burners on, but I didn't see much of a difference.


Got any ideas what would cause the broiler to be fine, but the oven not?  The homeowner didn't complain about the top burners, and for all I know, that is normal for this low-end range. I've got pics if anyone needs them.


Thanks for any and all ideas,





LG DLG2625 Gas Dryer won't stay lit

08 August 2014 - 05:36 AM

I have an LG gas dryer with the apparently not-uncommon "won't stay lit" issue. Original customer complaint is that it took forever to dry clothes. The ductwork is clear (does the same thing even if pulled away from the ductwork). I initially had issues with finding 90vdc on the coils (might have been measuring wrong), so i thought it was the control board. This unit is out of warranty, but fell under the control board/display board service flash, so LG paid for both new boards (and a new flame sensor). Replaced all that, same symptom of won't stay lit.

I finally got it worked out that valve 2 is in the front (one picture says one thing, one picture says another). I get good ignitor, then about 4-5 seconds of flame. During flame on, I get the ~90 vdc on valve 2 (red/white wires), then off.

Coils ohm out ok (~1900).

Flame sensor (new) is kicking open, as evidenced by reading 120vac across the blue & grey (after it opens).

My company has an account with LG, so I have been able to tap into their brains, and they have been super. I know there isn't much to this thing, really, so it is pissing off my relative newbie self that it is kicking my butt. So far customers are only out the paltry diagnosis fee, so they haven't given up on me yet.

I did the googling and youtubing, and I will admit to what may be (at least one) grevious error: I did all my checking with the front panel off/door switch bypassed.. Would incorrect airflow (front panel off) cause this? I admit I did not check it after I put it all back together.

Any guidance you might offer would be appreciated.

I've got this

07 August 2014 - 07:17 PM

Washer does not spin

Bet it doesn't drain either

Lid switch on order

New washers must have hot water?

28 August 2013 - 08:47 PM

Greetings All,

Newbie poster and tech here, please be kind...


I've got a customer with a Kenmore 110.20022013 washer, pretty much brand new. Complaints have been that once, the drain motor stayed on (after cycle done, I guess), and once it stopped after filling (kinda like a lid switch problem).  These people have next to no water pressure, and no hot water to the washer. I have checked the drain motor, recalibrated it numerous times, and done all the diagnostics I can. I can't find anything wrong, and it sets no codes (lately). It did set a "long fill" once, but a previous tech erased it.


My boss (not that I'm second guessing him) says that modern washers MUST have hot water as well as cold to work. (There's no dispute anywhere about the low water pressure problem). He says even if the customer picks only the cold cycle, the washer still won't work right.


The problem is that these (poor, in the financial sense) people pretty much have a washer they can't use. Their plumbing is jacked (low pressure), and they have some freaky phobia about hot water. They don't even want it CONNECTED, much less used.


I work for a Sears service center, and we have a great relationship with the store. They are willing to work with the customer to get them a washer that will meet their needs, but it would seem we can't find one "plain" enough. Anyone got a wringer washer for sale?


Is there a technical description of this somewhere? The salespeople hadn't heard about this, so didn't know how to advise the customer. I didn't know it, and told them to run it cold only. I'm sure I'll hear from them tomorrow that running a load failed...


Thanks for your feedback.



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